A striking silver-and-black banded brackish fish famous for shooting jets of water to knock insects off overhanging foliage. A large, surface-oriented specimen fish needing a big, securely covered brackish aquarium.
ℹ️
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Large; commonly 15-20 cm (6-8 in) in aquaria, up to about 25-30 cm (10-12 in).
Lifespan
5–10 years
Social needs
group
Native region
Indo-Pacific: coastal and estuarine waters from India and Southeast Asia to northern Australia and Oceania
Origin
Old World
Climate
🌴 Tropical
Water type
🌫️ Brackish
Family
Toxotidae
Genus
Toxotes
Part of the Archerfish
Archerfish are large, surface-oriented brackish and coastal fish renowned for shooting jets of water to knock insect prey off overhanging vegetation, then leaping to catch food in the air. Intelligent and social, they are specialist aquarium fish that need spacious, securely covered brackish tanks.
More archerfish coming soon.
Sounds & video
🎬 Video
Toxotes jaculatrix
Citron · Wikimedia Commons · CC BY-SA 3.0
Habitat & space requirements
From the minimum an animal needs to be kept humanely, up to the ideal setup. Bigger is almost always better — minimums are floors, not targets.
Photo coming soon
Minimum
Brackish species tank
55 gal / 208 L long, lidded
Toxotes jaculatrix is a brackish surface predator that grows to 7–10 in and shoots water at prey above the tank. Needs a 55-gallon long with low water level, 6+ inches of air gap, a tight lid, and brackish water (SG 1.005–1.010).
Photo coming soon
Recommended
Brackish shoal tank
75 gal / 284 L long, mangrove
75-gal long with mangrove roots, overhanging décor or plants for target practice, and a group of 4+ archers (they shoal). Open swim length and strong filtration for the messy carnivore diet.
Photo coming soon
Ideal
Mangrove estuary biotope
125+ gal / 473 L+ biotope
Large mangrove-estuary biotope with brackish-to-marine water, live mangroves, dim overhead structure for target shooting, and a stable shoal. Closest to wild estuarine behaviour.
Life & growth stages
How this animal changes through its life — each stage often has its own care, diet and space needs.
Photo coming soon
Egg
Fish eggs are small, translucent spheres, often laid in clutches on plants, substrate, or in a nest — or carried/brooded by a parent in livebearing and mouth-brooding species. A dark eye spot and the curled embryo become visible inside as development progresses.
Photo coming soon
Fry
Newly hatched fry are tiny and semi-transparent, frequently still carrying a yolk sac that fuels them before they feed freely. They lack full fin structure and adult coloration, staying near cover until they can swim and forage on their own.
Photo coming soon
Juvenile
Juveniles look like miniature adults but with developing fins and muted or different markings; many species shift pattern and color as they mature. Growth is rapid at this stage given clean water and steady feeding.
Adult
Adults show the species' full size, finnage, and mature coloration, and are sexually mature. Many fish develop sex-specific differences in size, color, or fin shape, which can intensify during breeding.
Habitat & enclosure
Keep a small shoal in a large, long brackish aquarium of at least 170-210 L (45-55 US gal), with 250 L or more strongly preferred to give these big, active surface fish swimming and shooting room. Provide ample open surface area, a strong filter and current, and decor of driftwood and mangrove roots; a deep tank with branches or plants reaching toward the surface lets them practice their spitting behavior. A tight, secure lid is essential because archerfish are powerful jumpers, and leaving an air gap above the waterline lets them target prey above the surface.
Maintain brackish conditions: specific gravity roughly 1.005-1.015, pH 7-8, hard water, and temperature 25-30 C (77-86 F). Juveniles handle low-end brackish water, while large adults trend toward higher salinity, even near-marine, in the wild. Strong filtration, surface agitation, and regular water changes keep this large-bodied, messy feeder healthy.
Substrate
Fine sand or smooth gravel works well; since archerfish are brackish, a sand bed mixed with crushed coral or aragonite helps buffer and maintain the slightly saline, hard water they prefer.
Equipment & setup
A long, wide tank (75+ gallons) with strong filtration to handle their messy carnivorous diet, a heater at 78-82F, and most importantly a wide open water-to-glass gap with a secure tight lid. Maintain brackish salinity around 1.005-1.010 specific gravity using a marine salt mix and hydrometer.
Diet
Archerfish are surface-feeding predators of insects and small animals. Offer floating foods and surface-targeted prey: crickets, flies, mealworms (sparingly), small shrimp, bloodworms, chopped seafood, and floating carnivore pellets. Live insects best stimulate their natural shooting and leaping, while many individuals will also learn to take frozen and prepared foods at the surface.
Feed a varied diet and avoid relying too heavily on fatty land insects like mealworms. Floating foods are important so the fish can feed in its natural surface zone; sinking foods are often ignored. Feed appropriately for their large size, but avoid overfeeding given the heavy bioload.
Behavior & temperament
Archerfish are intelligent, social, surface-oriented fish best kept in groups of four or more to spread out mild dominance behavior and bring out natural activity. Their signature behavior is spitting a precise jet of water - accurate to roughly 1-1.5 m and capable of reaching up to about 2 m - to dislodge insects from overhanging leaves, and they can also leap clear of the water to grab prey. A single fish can fire several shots in rapid succession.
Provide enrichment by occasionally offering prey on leaves or surfaces just above the waterline so they can hunt by shooting and jumping. They are generally peaceful with similarly sized brackish tankmates such as scats, monos, and large gobies, but will eat any fish small enough to swallow.
Health
Most health problems stem from unsuitable long-term housing: too-small tanks, inadequate salinity, or poor water quality lead to stress, stunting, and disease. Keeping adults permanently in freshwater is a common mistake that undermines long-term health; appropriate brackish water and pristine, well-filtered conditions are the main preventives.
Watch for whitespot (ich), skin and fin infections, and the effects of poor diet such as fatty-liver issues from too many high-fat feeder insects. Quarantine new, often wild-caught stock, acclimate slowly, and secure the lid to prevent injury or escape from jumping. Stable parameters and a varied diet keep them in good condition.
Tips, DIY & hacks
Leave open air space above the waterline and mount floating or emergent plants/perches so they can practice their signature spitting to knock insects (crickets, mealworms) into the water. Train feeding by holding prey just above the surface, and keep the lid tight because they jump.