🐾 LandCare difficulty: AdvancedLegal complexity: High — restricted in many states
Bennett's wallaby
Notamacropus rufogriseus · also called Red-necked wallaby, Bennett's red-necked wallaby, Brush wallaby
A medium-sized, cold-hardy Australian/Tasmanian wallaby kept on grassy acreage as a hobby exotic. It is a flighty prey animal that needs large secure paddocks and is regulated as exotic livestock in most regions.
Educational only. KinStation content is reviewed by licensed veterinarians but cannot replace an in-person exam. Always consult a licensed veterinarian or board-certified specialist for diagnosis, treatment, or any decision affecting your pet's health.
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Quick facts
| Size | Medium macropod: head-and-body about 26–36 in (66–92 cm) plus a long tail; adults commonly 30–40 lb (14–19 kg), males larger than females. |
| Lifespan | 12–18 years |
| Social needs | group |
| Native region | Eastern Australia and Tasmania (the Tasmanian/island race is the form usually kept and is also feral in parts of Europe |
| Origin | Old World |
| Climate | 🍂 Temperate |
| Family | Macropodidae |
| Genus | Notamacropus |
Part of the Wallabies
Small-to-medium grazing macropods (kangaroo relatives) kept on secure acreage; social, flighty marsupials with specialist diets and strict permit requirements.
More wallabies coming soon.
Habitat & space requirements
From the minimum an animal needs to be kept humanely, up to the ideal setup. Bigger is almost always better — minimums are floors, not targets.
Life & growth stages
How this animal changes through its life — each stage often has its own care, diet and space needs.
Color & pattern variants
Natural variants occur in the wild; selectively bred (man-made) variants were developed in captivity.
Naturalrepresentativerepresentative
representativeWild grey (red-necked) →
The natural coloration: grizzled grey-brown body with a distinctive reddish-brown wash across the nape and shoulders and a pale belly.
representativeWhite / albino & leucistic →
Pale white-coated individuals occur naturally (notably in some island/feral populations) and are selectively kept by hobbyists; true albinos have pink eyes, while leucistic animals retain dark eyes.
Habitat & enclosure
Bennett's wallabies are not house pets; they require a large, securely fenced grassy enclosure—generally a minimum on the order of a quarter-acre or more per small group, with the fence about 5–6 ft (1.5–1.8 m) high and the base secured to prevent escape and predator entry. The fencing should be solid or visually obvious (they can injure themselves running into wire when startled), and the paddock must provide ample grazing, shade trees or shelters, and a dry, draft-free, insulated shed or barn for retreat in bad weather.
This is one of the more cold-tolerant macropods (the Tasmanian race in particular), but they still need protection from extreme heat, cold, and wet, plus soft ground to protect their feet and legs. Avoid hazards inside the enclosure—wallabies bolt when frightened and can break legs or necks colliding with fences, gates, or hard structures—so smooth perimeters, rounded corners, and a calm, low-traffic location are essential.
Substrate
These are outdoor paddock animals kept on natural grass turf, which provides grazing and a soft surface; muddy or hard-packed ground risks foot and leg problems. Provide a deeply bedded shelter with straw for warmth and dry resting, and avoid concrete-only flooring which damages their feet and tail.
Equipment & setup
Require a large securely fenced grass paddock (high, smooth fencing they cannot bounce over or injure themselves on) with a draft-free insulated shed for shelter from cold, wet, and heat. In cold climates provide supplemental heating in the shelter and shade in summer; they need macropod/herbivore pellets, grass hay, and constant fresh water. They are herd animals and should be kept in groups, not singly.
Diet
Bennett's wallabies are grazers; the dietary base is good-quality grass pasture and grass hay, supplemented with a commercial macropod/kangaroo pellet to balance vitamins, minerals, and (importantly) vitamin E and selenium. Small amounts of vegetables and the occasional fruit can be offered as treats, and fresh water must always be available.
Diet must be managed carefully to prevent two classic macropod problems: 'lumpy jaw' (oral bacterial infection linked to soft/spoiled feed and poor oral hygiene) and nutritional myopathy from vitamin E/selenium deficiency. Avoid grain-heavy or sugary diets that disrupt their foregut fermentation and cause acidosis. Sudden diet changes should be avoided, and any supplementation worked out with an exotic/zoo veterinarian familiar with macropods.
Behavior & temperament
Wallabies are social, gregarious grazers that do best kept in pairs or small groups; a lone wallaby is stressed and unhappy. They are naturally timid prey animals—even hand-raised, bottle-fed ('imprinted') individuals remain easily startled and will bolt, and they never become truly tame in the dog/cat sense. Intact males can become aggressive and may box, kick, or charge keepers during the breeding season, which is a real safety concern given their powerful hind legs and claws.
Enrichment is mostly about space, grazing, conspecific company, and a calm environment; they need room to hop and graze and benefit from natural ground cover and browse. Handling should be minimized and low-stress, as restraint itself can trigger fatal capture myopathy. Daily routine, gentle familiar caretakers, and a quiet setting are key to keeping them settled.
Health
Major health concerns include 'lumpy jaw' (necrobacillosis of the jaw, often fatal if advanced), capture/exertional myopathy (muscle damage from stress or chasing, which can kill), nutritional muscular dystrophy from vitamin E/selenium deficiency, foot and leg injuries from collisions or hard ground, internal/external parasites, and toxoplasmosis (macropods are highly susceptible—keep cats away from feed and water).
Prevention centers on a correct grazing diet with macropod pellets, scrupulous feed hygiene, minimizing stress and chasing, predator-proof and injury-proof enclosures, parasite control, and protecting feed from cat feces. Routine and emergency care require a veterinarian experienced with macropods, which is uncommon. Ownership is tightly regulated—exotic-animal permits, licenses, or outright bans apply in many states and countries—so legality, permits, and qualified vet support must be confirmed before acquiring one.
Tips, DIY & hacks
Feed a proper macropod pellet to prevent lumpy jaw and nutritional bone disease, and never overfeed bread or sugary treats. Plant shelter belts or provide visual barriers so nervous individuals can hide, since panic-flight into fencing is a leading cause of injury. Check local exotic-animal licensing laws before acquiring, as they are regulated or restricted in many areas.