A striking, rough-skinned newt with armored-looking rows of orange-tipped warts down its back, named for its rugged, crocodilian appearance. It is largely terrestrial outside the breeding season, hardy in cool conditions, and toxic-skinned, making it a handsome display animal rather than a handling pet. US trade is heavily restricted because the genus is federally listed as injurious wildlife.
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Medium: typically 5.5 to 7.5 in (14 to 19 cm) total length, robustly built with prominent ribs and warty ridges
Lifespan
10–20 years
Social needs
group
Native region
South and Southeast Asia (Himalayan foothills of Nepal, India, Myanmar, Thailand, and southern China)
Origin
Old World
Climate
⛰️ Montane
Water type
💧 Freshwater
Family
Salamandridae
Genus
Tylototriton
Part of the Newts
Semi-aquatic salamanders kept in cool, clean, planted aquatic setups with land access. Many have toxic skin, so they are observation animals that require careful hand-washing and no casual handling. Many genera are now restricted in US trade under Lacey Act Bsal-fungus rules.
From the minimum an animal needs to be kept humanely, up to the ideal setup. Bigger is almost always better — minimums are floors, not targets.
Photo coming soon
Minimum
Semi-terrestrial terrarium
20-gal long (30 × 12 × 12 in)
Tylototriton spp. are largely terrestrial newts (Himalayan / SE Asian montane). 20-gal long with ~70% land / 30% shallow water, coco fibre + sphagnum + leaf litter, hides, 60–72 °F (cooler at night). Mildly toxic — wash hands after handling.
Photo coming soon
Recommended
Larger semi-terrestrial
29 gal (30 × 12 × 18 in) for a pair / small group
Wider semi-terrestrial setup with deeper substrate, more land area, shallow water section, sphagnum patches, multiple hides. Tylototriton tolerate small groups if sex-matched correctly.
Photo coming soon
Ideal
Bioactive paludarium
40-gal breeder bioactive
Planted bioactive paludarium with drainage, deep substrate, leaf litter, shallow water section, and a cool ambient (58–70 °F). Conservation-relevant — many Tylototriton are CITES-listed; buy only captive-bred from registered breeders.
Life & growth stages
How this animal changes through its life — each stage often has its own care, diet and space needs.
Photo coming soon
Egg
Amphibian eggs are soft, jelly-coated spheres laid in or near water — in floating clutches, strings, or foam nests depending on the species. The dark embryo is visible within the clear gel as it develops.
Photo coming soon
Tadpole / Larva
The aquatic larva (a tadpole in frogs/toads, a gilled larva in salamanders and newts) breathes through gills and feeds and grows in water. Frog/toad tadpoles are limbless at first, then sprout hind then front legs as metamorphosis nears.
Photo coming soon
Juvenile (froglet / eft)
At metamorphosis the animal develops legs and lungs and typically leaves the water as a froglet or, in many newts, a terrestrial eft. It resembles a small adult but is not yet sexually mature and its coloration may still be changing.
Adult
Adults reach full size and breeding condition, with the species' mature skin coloration and pattern. Many amphibians return to water to breed and can show seasonal or sex-specific changes such as nuptial coloration or crests.
Habitat & enclosure
Best kept as a semi-aquatic to mostly terrestrial setup: a 15 to 20 gallon (55 to 75 L) or larger enclosure with a land-heavy layout of moist substrate, cork bark, and hides, plus a shallow water area for soaking. Outside breeding they spend much of the year on land, returning to water seasonally to breed. Keep cool: 60 to 70 F (16 to 21 C) is ideal, avoiding sustained temperatures above the low 70s F. Maintain high humidity (70 to 90 percent) with regular misting. UVB is not required, though low-level UVB does no harm if temperatures stay cool.
Substrate
On the land portion use a moist, burrowable mix of coconut fiber and organic topsoil topped with leaf litter, cork bark, and moss for humidity and hiding. For any water area use a bare bottom or smooth stones too large to swallow. Keep the substrate damp but not waterlogged, and spot-clean regularly.
Equipment & setup
Plan for cooling rather than heating: keep the enclosure in a cool room and use a fan or chiller in warm climates; avoid heat lamps. Use a hygrometer and thermometer, a misting system or hand sprayer to sustain humidity, and a shallow, easy-to-clean water dish. A secure, fully covered lid prevents escape. Subdued lighting and dense cover suit their secretive nature.
Diet
Carnivorous. On land, feed earthworms (an excellent staple), gut-loaded crickets, dubia roaches, isopods, and other soft-bodied invertebrates; in the water, offer bloodworms, blackworms, and chopped worms. Feed every 2 to 4 days, dusting terrestrial insects with calcium and a multivitamin. Provide variety and gut-load feeders to prevent deficiencies. Remove uneaten food to keep the enclosure clean.
Behavior & temperament
Slow-moving, secretive, and mostly nocturnal/crepuscular; hides under cover by day and forages at night, becoming more aquatic during the seasonal breeding period. The bright orange warts are aposematic, advertising toxic skin secretions, so it is mildly toxic if ingested and an irritant to mucous membranes. This is not a handling animal: handle only when necessary with wet, clean hands, never touch your eyes or mouth afterward, and wash thoroughly. Peaceful with conspecifics and can be kept in groups with enough hides and space.
Health
Heat stress is the main risk, leading to refusal to feed, skin infections, and death; keep them cool. Other issues include bacterial and fungal skin infections, bloat, and impaction from loose substrate. Maintain high humidity, clean conditions, and dechlorinated water for the soaking area. Avoid copper-based medications. Quarantine new arrivals, as many remain wild-caught and benefit from parasite screening; note that the Tylototriton genus has been split into many species, so trade animals are frequently mislabeled.
Tips, DIY & hacks
Check legality before acquiring: the genus Tylototriton has been listed as injurious wildlife under the Lacey Act since 2016 to slow the spread of the Bsal fungus, so importation and interstate transport are prohibited (keeping an animal you already own is generally still legal). Provide a land-dominant layout for most of the year and increase the water area if you intend to trigger breeding. Commit to keeping them cool, this is the key husbandry factor. Always dechlorinate soaking water and wash hands well after any contact due to skin toxins. Use plenty of leaf litter and cork hides to reduce stress, and secure the lid since they can climb and escape.
