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🐟 AquaticCare difficulty: IntermediateLegal complexity: Low

Figure 8 puffer

Dichotomyctere ocellatus · also called Figure-eight puffer, Eyespot puffer, Tetraodon biocellatus (former name)

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Figure 8 puffer

A small, charismatic brackish-water puffer with bold yellow-on-brown figure-eight markings and eyespots near the tail. It is intelligent and personable but has continuously growing beak-like teeth and is best kept alone in low-end brackish water.

Educational only. KinStation content is reviewed by licensed veterinarians but cannot replace an in-person exam. Always consult a licensed veterinarian or board-certified specialist for diagnosis, treatment, or any decision affecting your pet's health.

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Quick facts

SizeSmall; about 3 in (8 cm).
Lifespan5–15 years
Social needssolo
Native regionSoutheast Asia (lower rivers and estuaries, e.g. Mekong region)
OriginOld World
Climate🌴 Tropical
Water type🌫️ Brackish
FamilyTetraodontidae
GenusDichotomyctere

Part of the Puffers

Intelligent, personable pufferfish with beak-like teeth and special diet and water needs; most are best kept solo.

Fahaka puffer

Habitat & space requirements

From the minimum an animal needs to be kept humanely, up to the ideal setup. Bigger is almost always better — minimums are floors, not targets.

Photo coming soon
Minimum

Brackish single tank

20 gal / 76 L brackish

Dichotomyctere ocellatus reaches 3 in and needs brackish water (SG 1.005–1.010). 20-gal long single-specimen tank with sand, smooth décor, snail-rich diet, and strong filtration. Aggressive — almost always solo.

Photo coming soon
Recommended

Brackish display tank

30 gal / 114 L brackish

30-gal brackish single-puffer display with mangrove roots, sand, regular snail-feeding for tooth wear, and varied frozen meaty foods. Easier to maintain stable brackish parameters at this size.

Photo coming soon
Ideal

Brackish mangrove biotope

40 gal+ / 151 L+ biotope

Brackish mangrove biotope with live mangroves, sand, varied décor, and a single well-fed puffer. Hardiest welfare outcome.

Life & growth stages

How this animal changes through its life — each stage often has its own care, diet and space needs.

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Egg

Fish eggs are small, translucent spheres, often laid in clutches on plants, substrate, or in a nest — or carried/brooded by a parent in livebearing and mouth-brooding species. A dark eye spot and the curled embryo become visible inside as development progresses.

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Fry

Newly hatched fry are tiny and semi-transparent, frequently still carrying a yolk sac that fuels them before they feed freely. They lack full fin structure and adult coloration, staying near cover until they can swim and forage on their own.

Photo coming soon
Juvenile

Juveniles look like miniature adults but with developing fins and muted or different markings; many species shift pattern and color as they mature. Growth is rapid at this stage given clean water and steady feeding.

Adult stage
Adult

Adults show the species' full size, finnage, and mature coloration, and are sexually mature. Many fish develop sex-specific differences in size, color, or fin shape, which can intensify during breeding.

Habitat & enclosure

Keep one in a 15-20 gallon (60-75 L) or larger tank; allow more space and only experienced groupings beyond that. Low-end brackish water with a specific gravity around 1.005-1.008 (roughly 5-12 g/L marine salt), pH 7.5-8.2, temperature 75-82F (24-28C). Provide gentle flow, plenty of caves, driftwood, and salt-tolerant plants for cover and to break sightlines. Stable parameters and pristine water matter more than tank decor for this messy eater.

Substrate

Fine sand or smooth gravel works well and lets snails and trumpet snails burrow, providing live 'dental' food. A sand bed also suits the puffer's habit of nosing along the bottom hunting prey. Keep the substrate clean, as puffers are messy, high-waste feeders.

Equipment & setup

Use an efficient filter rated above the tank size to handle heavy waste, a reliable heater, and a hydrometer or refractometer to manage brackish salinity precisely. Marine aquarium salt (not plain aquarium 'tonic' salt) is required to mix the brackish water. Gentle flow and good cover complete the setup; no UVB needed.

Diet

A carnivore and dedicated snail-cruncher. Feed a hard-shelled, varied diet: ramshorn and Malaysian trumpet snails, small clams and mussels, krill, mysis, bloodworms, and chopped prawn. The shells and chitin wear down the puffer's ever-growing beak; without them the teeth overgrow and must be trimmed. Feed small amounts most days and keep a steady snail supply as 'dental' food.

Behavior & temperament

Bold, curious, and interactive, often watching the room and begging at the glass, but also a fin-nipper and territorial toward other fish. It is generally best kept solo; tankmates risk being nipped or killed, and other puffers may fight. Not venomous in the sting sense, but its tissues can carry tetrodotoxin, so it is unsafe to eat (never an issue for an aquarium pet). Not a handling species; it can bite and may inflate if grabbed.

Health

Hardy when water is clean and brackish, but prone to ich, internal parasites (common in wild-caught stock; deworm new arrivals), and obesity from rich foods. The signature problem is overgrown teeth from a too-soft diet, causing inability to eat; provide hard-shelled prey or have the beak trimmed under sedation by a fish vet. Avoid copper at full marine doses; use puffer-safe treatments. Sensitive to nitrate, so keep up large water changes.

Tips, DIY & hacks

Maintain true low-end brackish water with marine salt mixed to a measured specific gravity; pure freshwater shortens this puffer's life. Keep a breeding colony of snails in a separate tank as ongoing tooth-wearing food. Quarantine and deworm new (often wild-caught) puffers. House it alone unless you are experienced; its nipping makes community life risky for tankmates.

Sources

  1. Seriously Fish: Dichotomyctere ocellatus (reference)
  2. FishBase: Dichotomyctere ocellatus (database)
  3. Wikipedia: Figure 8 puffer (wiki)