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Orange-Head Cockroach

Eublaberus posticus · also called Orange-headed roach, Orangehead, Eublaberus 'orange head'

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Orange-Head Cockroach

A hardy, prolific Neotropical cave roach kept both as a meaty feeder and an easy display colony. It cannot climb smooth glass and is a fast, low-maintenance breeder.

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Quick facts

SizeAdults about 4-5 cm (1.5-2 in) long, robust-bodied with a distinctive orange-and-black pronotum ('orange head'). Nymphs are stout burrowers.
Lifespan1–2 years
Social needsgroup
Native regionCentral America and northern South America (cave and forest-floor habitats; recorded from Nicaragua and Panama south thr
OriginNew World
Climate🌴 Tropical
FamilyBlaberidae
GenusEublaberus

Part of the Cockroaches

Pet and display cockroaches — from ornamental domino and giant cave species to feeder colonies — kept in ventilated tubs with appropriate substrate, warmth, and a simple omnivorous diet. Hardy, harmless, and fascinating, though local and federal pest-species regulations apply.

Domino CockroachGiant Cave Cockroach

Habitat & space requirements

From the minimum an animal needs to be kept humanely, up to the ideal setup. Bigger is almost always better — minimums are floors, not targets.

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Minimum

Sealed colony tub

16 × 12 × 10 in bin, vaseline rim

Eublaberus posticus colony bin needs a tight lid and a vaseline rim — nymphs climb. 5 cm coco-fibre, egg-crate stacks for surface area, warm (~28 °C), low–moderate humidity. Strong feeder species.

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Recommended

Larger colony tub

24 × 18 × 12 in bin with egg crates

A larger colony bin with egg-crate towers, fruit/protein feeder dish, and gentle heat. Produces a large feeder colony quickly; can also be kept as a display species.

Photo coming soon
Ideal

Bioactive display bin

24 × 18 × 18 in, bioactive substrate

A bioactive display setup with deep substrate, leaf litter, cork bark, and a cleanup crew. Adults' striking orange pronotum shows well against natural décor.

Life & growth stages

How this animal changes through its life — each stage often has its own care, diet and space needs.

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Egg

Insects begin as eggs, laid singly or in clusters on or near a food source. Egg size, shape, and incubation time vary widely; some are glued to surfaces, others inserted into plant tissue or soil.

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Larva / Nymph

The immature stage either looks grub- or caterpillar-like and very different from the adult (a larva, in beetles, flies, and butterflies) or like a wingless miniature adult (a nymph, in roaches, mantises, and stick insects). It eats and molts repeatedly as it grows.

Photo coming soon
Pupa

In insects with complete metamorphosis, the larva pupates — often in a cocoon, chrysalis, or sealed cell — and its body is reorganized into the adult form. Nymph-developing insects skip a true pupa and molt straight to the adult.

Adult stage
Adult

The adult is the sexually mature, usually winged stage with the species' full coloration and form. Adults are typically the dispersing and reproducing stage, and in many insects do not grow further once mature.

Habitat & enclosure

Keep a colony in a ventilated tub with deep-enough substrate for nymphs to burrow plus stacked egg crate or bark for the adults. Maintain 25-32C (77-90F) for best breeding; they tolerate a fairly dry, warm setup well. Keep one area lightly moist with good airflow. They cannot climb clean glass/plastic, so a lid is mainly for humidity control and pest exclusion. As a cave species they appreciate dark, cluttered hiding space.

Substrate

A modest layer of coconut fiber, organic topsoil, or a substrate/frass mix that nymphs can burrow into; many keepers run them on a thinner substrate plus deep egg-crate stacks. Keep part lightly moist and part dry. Add leaf litter or bark for nibbling and humidity buffering.

Equipment & setup

Thermostatically controlled heat mat on the side if the room is cool; warmth drives their fast breeding. No UVB needed. Good ventilation is important due to colony density and humidity. Egg crate/cork bark for surface area, plus water gel crystals and a hygrometer/thermometer complete the setup.

Diet

Omnivorous and voracious. A grain-based chow or dry dog/cat food forms the staple, supplemented with fresh produce (carrot, squash, apple, greens). Provide protein and calcium for a productive colony. Note that under-fed or under-hydrated colonies are prone to wing- and limb-biting of nestmates, so keep food and moisture consistent. Hydrate with water crystals or moist produce; remove spoiled food to limit mites and odor.

Behavior & temperament

Docile, harmless, nocturnal, and intensely shy — they dive into cover when exposed. No venom; bites are a non-issue. A gregarious colony species. Adults have wings but are not meaningful fliers and cannot climb smooth surfaces, making them very containable. Tolerant of gentle handling, though they are kept more as feeders and display animals than as 'pets' to hold.

Health

Extremely hardy and forgiving. The classic issue is cannibalistic biting (chewed wings/legs) when protein, moisture, or space runs short — fix husbandry and it stops. Excess dampness with poor airflow invites grain mites and a sour ammonia smell; ventilate and avoid waterlogging. Teneral (freshly molted) roaches are soft and pale and should be left undisturbed.

Tips, DIY & hacks

A top-tier feeder: meaty, fast-breeding, and unable to climb glass or infest a home. Start with 25+ for a self-sustaining colony and keep them warm and well-fed to prevent nestmate biting. They can have a noticeable musty odor at high density, so ventilate and don't overcrowd. As always, verify that keeping this non-native roach is legal in your state/country and whether a USDA permit is required before acquiring them.

Sources

  1. Eublaberus posticus care — Roach Crossing (reference)
  2. Eublaberus posticus — Wikipedia (reference)
  3. Wikipedia: Orange-Head Cockroach (wiki)