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Scaly-breasted Lorikeet
Trichoglossus chlorolepidotus · also called Greenie, Green lorikeet, Scaly lorikeet, Green and gold lorikeet
An all-green Australian lorikeet with yellow scalloping across the breast, named for its 'scaly' chest pattern. Active and acrobatic with a specialized nectar diet, it is best suited to dedicated keepers.
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Quick facts
| Size | Medium-small parrot, about 23 cm long, 75-95 g. |
| Lifespan | 15–25 years |
| Social needs | pair |
| Native region | Eastern Australia |
| Origin | Old World |
| Climate | ⛅ Subtropical |
| Family | Psittaculidae |
| Genus | Trichoglossus |
Part of the Lories and Lorikeets
Lories and lorikeets are brush-tongued parrots of Australasia and the Pacific, specialized nectar and pollen feeders known for their dazzling colors, acrobatics, and bold, playful personalities.
Habitat & space requirements
From the minimum an animal needs to be kept humanely, up to the ideal setup. Bigger is almost always better — minimums are floors, not targets.
Life & growth stages
How this animal changes through its life — each stage often has its own care, diet and space needs.
Color & pattern variants
Natural variants occur in the wild; selectively bred (man-made) variants were developed in captivity.
Habitat & enclosure
Lorikeets are extremely active and need a long flight cage or aviary rather than a small cage; aim for a flight of at least about 1.8-2.4 m in length so they can fly and exercise, with non-toxic natural branches, swings, ropes, and plenty of foraging and chew toys. Because their nectar diet produces liquid, projectile droppings, easy-to-clean surfaces and frequent cleaning are essential, and they love daily bathing.
Keep them at warm, comfortable temperatures and protect them from cold and drafts; they are subtropical/tropical birds and are not frost-hardy. Outdoor aviaries in cooler climates need frost protection and a dry shelter. No UVB is required indoors with proper nutrition, but natural light and bathing support feather and skin health.
Substrate
Because lorikeets eat nectar and produce copious liquid, wet droppings, use an easy-wipe tray lined with newspaper or removable washable mats and clean it daily; avoid absorbent loose litter that breeds bacteria and mold. A wire grate above the tray keeps birds off soiled flooring, and in aviaries a sloped, hose-able concrete floor is ideal.
Equipment & setup
Provide a large, easily-hosed cage or aviary with natural branch perches and abundant chewable foliage; lorikeets are active and need horizontal flight room plus daily bathing water. Spray-misting and a splash bath help them stay clean, and they tolerate warmth but need protection from frost and damp. Their projectile liquid droppings mean splash-guards or surrounding washable surfaces around the cage save a lot of cleanup.
Diet
Lorikeets are nectar and pollen feeders with a brush-tipped tongue and a specialized digestive tract, so they require a commercial lorikeet nectar (wet and/or dry) as the dietary base, not a standard parrot seed mix. Supplement with fresh fruit (apple, pear, melon, berries), some vegetables, and edible flowers, plus occasional pollen.
Wet nectar spoils quickly, especially in warm weather, so it must be made fresh and removed within a few hours to prevent bacterial growth. Avoid high-iron foods in excess, seed-based diets, avocado, chocolate, caffeine, and alcohol. Always provide clean fresh water.
Behavior & temperament
Scaly-breasted lorikeets are exuberant, playful, and highly social, spending much of the day climbing, hanging upside down, and 'mock-fighting' with cage mates. They are loud, with a sharp screech, and form strong pair bonds. Hand-raised birds can be very affectionate and clownish but demand a great deal of interaction and space.
They need intensive enrichment: foraging toys, shreddables, swings, ropes, and frequent baths. Boredom or confinement leads to screaming, hyperactivity, and feather damage. Their messy, liquid droppings and high energy make them a commitment best matched to experienced bird keepers.
Health
Lorikeets are susceptible to bacterial and fungal infections from spoiled nectar, iron storage disease (hemochromatosis) if fed inappropriate high-iron foods, candidiasis, and lorikeet paralysis syndrome (a seasonal condition seen in wild Australian birds). Obesity and nutritional imbalances arise from incorrect diets.
Prevention depends on scrupulous hygiene with fresh nectar, a species-appropriate low-iron diet, clean water, and quarantine of new birds. Routine avian-vet checks are important; any lethargy, soiled vent, or change in droppings warrants prompt evaluation.
Tips, DIY & hacks
Feed a commercial wet or dry lorikeet nectar/pollen formula plus fresh fruit, flowers and the occasional eucalyptus blossom or bottlebrush branch for natural foraging; never feed a seed-based parrot diet. Make cheap foraging toys from skewered fruit and untreated native flowering branches, and offer frequent showers since their sticky nectar diet matts feathers.