🐟 AquaticCare difficulty: BeginnerLegal complexity: Low
Amano shrimp
Caridina multidentata · also called Yamato shrimp, Japanese algae shrimp, Caridina japonica (former name), Amano algae shrimp
Popularized by aquascaper Takashi Amano, this translucent shrimp is one of the most effective algae eaters in the hobby and is peaceful enough for almost any community tank.
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Quick facts
| Size | Adults reach about 4-5 cm (1.5-2 in); females are slightly larger than males. |
| Lifespan | 2–3 years |
| Social needs | group |
| Native region | Eastern Asia (Japan, Taiwan, Korea) |
| Origin | Old World |
| Climate | ⛅ Subtropical |
| Water type | 💧 Freshwater |
| Family | Atyidae |
| Genus | Caridina |
Part of the Shrimp
Freshwater dwarf and algae-eating shrimp kept as peaceful, hardworking cleanup crews and colorful centerpieces in planted aquariums. Most are small, sensitive to copper and poor water quality, and best kept in groups.
Habitat & space requirements
From the minimum an animal needs to be kept humanely, up to the ideal setup. Bigger is almost always better — minimums are floors, not targets.
Life & growth stages
How this animal changes through its life — each stage often has its own care, diet and space needs.
Color & pattern variants
Natural variants occur in the wild; selectively bred (man-made) variants were developed in captivity.
Habitat & enclosure
Amano shrimp do best in a planted, established freshwater tank of at least 38 L (10 gallons), as they are larger and more active than dwarf Neocaridina. They prefer cooler, well-oxygenated water: temperature 18-26 C (65-78 F), pH 6.5-7.5, and moderate hardness (GH 6-8, KH 1-6). Like all shrimp they are intolerant of ammonia, nitrite, and copper, so a fully cycled tank and copper-free medications are non-negotiable.
Use a tight-fitting lid because Amano shrimp are accomplished climbers and will leave an open tank, especially when water quality is poor. Provide live plants, moss, and driftwood for grazing and cover; a sponge filter or sponge-guarded intake protects them during molts. Note that, unlike Neocaridina, they will not breed in a normal freshwater tank because their larvae require brackish water to develop.
Substrate
Fine gravel or sand with plenty of leaf litter, moss, and biofilm for grazing. A planted, mature substrate that grows algae and detritus keeps them well-fed and foraging naturally.
Equipment & setup
A cycled tank (10+ gallons recommended) at 65-78F with a sponge-filter or gently pre-filtered intake so shrimp aren't sucked in. Stable parameters and good oxygenation matter; they tolerate a wide pH/hardness range but dislike sudden swings.
Diet
Amano shrimp are voracious algae grazers, well known for tackling several types of nuisance algae (including some hair and thread algae) that other cleanup animals ignore. In a tank with limited algae they must be supplemented with sinking shrimp pellets, algae wafers, and blanched vegetables, otherwise they will lose condition and may pester slow-growing plants.
They are also opportunistic scavengers and will eat fish food, biofilm, and detritus. Feed in modest amounts that are consumed quickly, and watch that faster tankmates do not outcompete them at feeding time. A varied diet keeps them active and well-colored.
Behavior & temperament
Amano shrimp are peaceful, busy, and best kept in small groups of three or more, where they forage confidently and are more visible. They get along with virtually all peaceful community fish and invertebrates and will not harm plants when adequately fed. Their larger size makes them less likely than dwarf shrimp to be eaten by small fish, though large or aggressive fish can still pose a risk.
Enrichment comes from plenty of grazing surfaces and cover: moss, plants, leaf litter, and driftwood. They molt periodically and need hiding places while their new shell hardens. Because they do not breed in freshwater, populations remain stable and controlled, which many aquascapers prefer.
Health
As with all shrimp, the biggest risks are poor water quality and copper toxicity; never expose them to copper-based medications or fertilizers, and only add them to a cycled, stable tank. Molting problems can occur if mineral content (GH) is too low or if parameters change abruptly, sometimes leaving a shrimp unable to shed its old exoskeleton. Sensitivity to ammonia and nitrite means even brief spikes can be fatal.
Prevent issues by keeping cool, clean, well-oxygenated water, maintaining steady parameters, drip-acclimating new shrimp, and feeding to prevent both starvation and overfeeding. A secure lid prevents escape, a common cause of loss when shrimp climb out at night. Always consult an aquatic veterinarian before medicating a tank that houses shrimp.
This information is general guidance and not a substitute for advice from a qualified aquatic veterinarian.
Tips, DIY & hacks
Outstanding hair- and thread-algae eaters; offer blanched vegetables and a sinking wafer once algae runs low so they don't starve. Their larvae require brackish water to survive, so they effectively won't breed in freshwater—keep that in mind, and avoid copper medications.