Cherry shrimp

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Red cherry / Fire red / Painted fire red →

A graded series of selectively bred red Neocaridina, from translucent-patchy Red Cherry up through solid Fire Red to opaque, leg-included Painted Fire Red. The hobby's foundational shrimp.

Tip: Cull pale/translucent individuals to hold grade over generations; on a dark substrate and varied biofilm diet the reds intensify markedly.

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Yellow (Golden Back / Neon Yellow) →

A yellow Neocaridina line; Golden Back shows a bright dorsal racing-stripe while Neon Yellow glows under good light. A bright, easy-keeping alternative to reds.

Tip: Don't house alongside red, blue or green Neocaridina—they all interbreed and revert offspring to muddy wild-type brown within a few generations.

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Blue (Blue Dream / Blue Velvet) →

Selectively bred blue lines: deep solid Blue Dream and the slightly lighter Blue Velvet. Among the most sought-after color forms for planted tanks.

Tip: Blue coloration is somewhat mood/stress-responsive—stable parameters and minimal disturbance keep the blue deep rather than washed-out grey.

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Green Jade →

A relatively recent olive-to-jade green Neocaridina line, harder to fix than reds or blues so color consistency varies. A standout in a green planted aquascape.

Tip: Green is the least stable common color—cull heavily and keep a closed colony, as outcrossing rapidly dilutes the jade tone.

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Black Rose / Chocolate →

Dark Neocaridina lines ranging from deep chocolate-brown to near-black ('Black Rose'). Provides dramatic contrast against light substrate and green plants.

Tip: Display them over pale sand and bright plants so the dark bodies stand out; on dark substrate they visually disappear.

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Rili →

A pattern mutation (available in red, blue and other base colors) where the mid-body is transparent, splitting the color into front and rear bands. Selectively bred from cherry lines.

Tip: Rili patterning is unstable and throws solid and patchy offspring; selectively breed only the cleanest-banded individuals to maintain the look.

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Sakura →

A mid-tier red grade sitting between low-grade translucent Red Cherry and solid Fire Red: the red is fuller and covers most of the body but the legs and a little of the underside stay clear. The most commonly sold 'good red' Neocaridina.

Tip: Cull the palest and most translucent individuals each generation and keep the colony closed; Sakura readily firms up toward Fire Red grade over a few generations of selection.

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Bloody Mary →

A deep, glassy blood-red line bred from the chocolate/wild gene rather than the standard red Sakura line, so the red sits in a clear (not white) shell and looks almost translucent-crimson. A distinct line, not just a high red grade.

Tip: Because the color comes from a clear carapace, Bloody Marys can look washed out under harsh light, so use a dark substrate and subdued lighting; never cross them into Sakura-line reds or you dilute the glassy depth.

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Orange Sakura / Pumpkin →

A bright orange Neocaridina line; 'Pumpkin' tends to a warmer, more opaque orange and 'Orange Sakura' a lighter tangerine. A relatively recent designer color that stands out against green plants.

Tip: Orange is less stable than red, so cull any individuals tinting back toward brown or yellow, and keep them away from red, yellow, and other Neocaridina colors that would interbreed and muddy the line.

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Carbon Rili →

A split-color Rili-pattern morph with a dark carbon-black head and tail and a clear transparent midsection, derived from the black/Rili lines. The crisp dark-clear-dark banding is what defines it.

Tip: Rili patterning is genetically loose and throws solid and patchy offspring, so breed only the cleanest dark-clear-dark individuals; display over light substrate so the black blocks contrast with the transparent band.

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Snowball →

A translucent milky-white Neocaridina named for its bright opaque-white eggs, which look like tiny snowballs under the female's tail. A clean, icy alternative to the colored lines.

Tip: The white is subtle, so a dark substrate and dark background make Snowballs pop; like all Neocaridina, keep them as a single-color colony so offspring don't revert toward wild-type brown.

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Red Rili →

The classic Rili: a red head and red tail separated by a clear transparent midsection, selectively bred from cherry lines. The original split-color pattern that the Rili name comes from.

Tip: Selectively breed only the cleanest-banded individuals, as Red Rili throws solid-red and patchy offspring; pairing it with non-Rili reds quickly washes the pattern out of the colony.

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Blue Rili →

A Rili-pattern line carrying blue rather than red pigment in the head and tail, with the signature clear midsection. Combines the split-color Rili look with the popular blue Neocaridina coloration.

Tip: Blue intensity is stress- and substrate-responsive, so keep parameters steady and use a dark substrate to hold the blue; breed only well-banded individuals to maintain both the blue and the Rili split.