KinStation
Sign inSign up
← Encyclopedia
🐾 LandCare difficulty: BeginnerLegal complexity: Low

Ivory millipede

Chicobolus spinigerus · also called Florida ivory millipede

⚖️ Compare
Ivory millipede

A handsome, hardy millipede native to the southeastern US, named for the creamy ivory banding between its dark segments. Docile, long-lived, and easy to keep, it is an excellent beginner and display species.

Educational only. KinStation content is reviewed by licensed veterinarians but cannot replace an in-person exam. Always consult a licensed veterinarian or board-certified specialist for diagnosis, treatment, or any decision affecting your pet's health.

🩺 Need expert help with your ivory millipede?

Connect with a specialist near you or ask a licensed vet — never substitute online guidance for hands-on care in an emergency.

💬 Ask a vet in the community

Quick facts

SizeMedium millipede, roughly 7-11 cm (3-4.5 in) long, with a dark body ringed by pale ivory/cream bands.
Lifespan5–10 years
Social needsgroup
Native regionNorth America
OriginNew World
Climate⛅ Subtropical
FamilySpirobolidae
GenusChicobolus

Part of the Millipedes

Gentle, detritivorous arthropods that recycle leaf litter and rotting wood. Hardy and low-maintenance, they make excellent display and beginner invertebrates.

Bumblebee millipedeGiant African millipede

Habitat & space requirements

From the minimum an animal needs to be kept humanely, up to the ideal setup. Bigger is almost always better — minimums are floors, not targets.

Photo coming soon
Minimum

Juvenile ivory millipede

10 gal with 4 in leaf-litter substrate

Ivory millipedes (Chicobolus spinigerus, native to Florida) prefer slightly drier substrate than GAMs but still humid — coco-fibre + leaf litter + cuttlebone, with shallow water dish.

Photo coming soon
Recommended

Group enclosure

10–20 gal with 5–6 in substrate

Best housed in groups. Deep mix of coco-fibre, rotting leaves, and hardwood pieces. Slightly less humidity than GAMs (60–70% RH) and slightly cooler tolerance.

Photo coming soon
Ideal

Bioactive temperate-forest setup

20 gal long+ bioactive, 65–75% RH

Bioactive setup with isopods, springtails, deep leaf-litter substrate, and live moss/plants. Long-lived and easy to breed once parameters are stable.

Life & growth stages

How this animal changes through its life — each stage often has its own care, diet and space needs.

Photo coming soon
Egg

These invertebrates lay eggs — often in a guarded clutch, a silk sac (spiders), or a brood (carried by female isopods). The eggs are small and soft and develop without a true larval or pupal transformation.

Photo coming soon
Juvenile

Juveniles hatch as miniature versions of the adult and grow by molting their exoskeleton (or, in snails, by enlarging the shell). They gain size, segments, or leg pairs and gradually take on adult coloration with each molt.

Adult stage
Adult

Adults reach full size and reproductive maturity with the species' mature form and coloration. Many arachnids and myriapods continue to molt as adults, and sexes can differ in size or in specialized appendages.

Habitat & enclosure

A 5-10 gallon (20-40 L) enclosure houses a small group. Provide deep, moist, hardwood-based substrate (10-15 cm) for burrowing, generous leaf litter, rotting wood, and cork-bark hides. Keep at 21-26 C (70-79 F) and 70-85% humidity with cross-ventilation to avoid stagnant air. As a US-native species it is undemanding, but captives should still never be released, especially outside their native range.

Substrate

A deep, bioactive blend of decomposed hardwood leaves, rotten wood, coco fiber, and a little topsoil, kept consistently moist but never waterlogged. A cleanup crew of springtails and dwarf isopods keeps the substrate healthy and helps recycle waste.

Equipment & setup

Usually no heating is needed at room temperature; a thermostatted low-wattage heat mat helps in cool rooms. No UVB required. Useful items: misting bottle, hygrometer, secure ventilated lid, cuttlebone, and a springtail/isopod cleanup crew.

Diet

A detritivore whose staple is decaying hardwood leaf litter (oak, maple, beech) and soft rotting wood. Supplement with vegetables such as cucumber, squash, carrot, and sweet potato, plus a calcium source (cuttlebone) for molting. Keep decomposing leaves and wood available at all times.

Behavior & temperament

Calm, slow, and non-aggressive; it does not bite. When threatened it curls into a spiral and may release a defensive fluid containing benzoquinones that can stain skin and irritate — wash hands after handling and keep it away from your eyes and face. It tolerates gentle, brief handling. Social and best kept in groups; mostly nocturnal and burrowing, surfacing after misting.

Health

Robust and long-lived for an invertebrate. Most problems trace to substrate that is too dry (failed molts) or too wet/dirty (mold, mites, fungus-gnat or phorid-fly infestations). Provide calcium to support successful molts, remove rotting produce promptly, and maintain ventilation. Mite blooms respond to predatory mites and drier, fresher substrate.

Tips, DIY & hacks

Set up and age the bioactive substrate before adding the millipedes so leaf litter and microfauna are established. Keep a moisture gradient by misting one side more heavily. Bury extra rotting hardwood, which is both food and shelter. Offer cuttlebone for molting calcium, and don't dig for the animals while they are molting underground.

Sources

  1. BugGuide — Chicobolus spinigerus (reference)
  2. Ivory Millipede (Chicobolus spinigerus) husbandry (care guide)
  3. Wikipedia: Ivory millipede (wiki)