Prized as the best algae-eating snail in the hobby, the nerite clears glass, plants, and decor without breeding out of control because its larvae only survive in brackish water.
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Shell reaches about 1.5-2.5 cm (0.5-1 in); one of the smaller, hardest-working algae snails.
Lifespan
1–3 years
Social needs
solo
Native region
Eastern and Southern Africa (coastal rivers and estuaries)
Origin
Old World
Climate
🌴 Tropical
Water type
💧 Freshwater
Family
Neritidae
Genus
Neritina
Part of the Snails
Peaceful freshwater aquarium snails kept as algae grazers, detritus cleaners, and colorful display animals. Most need stable, calcium-rich water for shell health and are highly sensitive to copper.
From the minimum an animal needs to be kept humanely, up to the ideal setup. Bigger is almost always better — minimums are floors, not targets.
Photo coming soon
Minimum
Cycled hard-water FW
5+ gal cycled, hard water
Nerite snails (Neritina spp.) need hard water (GH 8–15) for shell health, pH 7–8.5, and a tight lid — they will climb out. They eat algae but won't breed in freshwater (eggs need brackish/saltwater).
Photo coming soon
Recommended
Planted community / brackish
10+ gal planted community
Planted community tank with algae growth, hard water, and calcium-rich substrate (aragonite optional). They leave inert white egg dots on hard surfaces — cosmetic only.
Photo coming soon
Ideal
Brackish biotope for breeding
20+ gal brackish biotope
Brackish biotope (SG 1.005–1.010) for breeding — the only way to raise nerite young. Most keepers run them in pure FW for algae control instead.
Life & growth stages
How this animal changes through its life — each stage often has its own care, diet and space needs.
Photo coming soon
Larva
Most marine invertebrates hatch into microscopic planktonic larvae (such as the zoea of crustaceans or the bipinnaria/veliger of echinoderms and mollusks) that drift and feed in the water column. The larva looks nothing like the adult and undergoes major reorganization.
Photo coming soon
Juvenile
After settling out of the plankton, the juvenile takes on a recognizable miniature of the adult body plan — a tiny shell, a small star, or a translucent shrimp. Crustaceans grow by molting, shedding the exoskeleton to enlarge.
Adult
Adults reach full size and reproductive maturity with the species' mature shell, shape, or coloration. Many continue to molt or grow throughout life, and some show sex differences in size or claw/appendage shape.
Color & pattern variants
Natural variants occur in the wild; selectively bred (man-made) variants were developed in captivity.
Nerite snails suit any stable, cycled freshwater aquarium from 19 L (5 gallons) upward; they are small, so stocking is governed by available algae rather than bioload. Keep temperature at 22-27 C (72-80 F), pH 7.0-8.5, and moderate-to-hard water (GH 6-12) with good calcium, since these snails favor slightly alkaline conditions and need calcium for shell integrity. They tolerate brackish water and are equally at home in low-salinity setups.
A secure lid is important because nerites readily climb out of the water and along the rim in search of food. Provide a mature tank with some natural algae growth, smooth surfaces to graze, and a calcium supplement (cuttlebone or crushed coral) in soft water. To breed them you must move adults to brackish water (specific gravity around 1.005-1.010), as their planktonic larvae cannot develop in freshwater - which is why pure freshwater tanks never become overrun.
Substrate
Any substrate is fine since nerites live on hard surfaces; sand or gravel both work. They prefer mature tanks with plenty of algae-covered glass, rock, and driftwood to graze.
Equipment & setup
A stable, fully cycled tank with gentle filtration, temperatures of 72-78F, and hard, alkaline water for shell health. A secure lid is essential because nerites are determined climbers that will escape above the waterline and dry out.
Diet
Nerite snails are dedicated algae grazers and are among the most effective natural cleaners available, methodically scraping algae from glass, plants, hardscape, substrate, and even equipment. They are especially valued for tackling tough films and some algae types other snails ignore.
In a clean, low-algae tank they can run short of food and must be supplemented with algae wafers, blanched vegetables (zucchini, spinach), and biofilm; a starving nerite will weaken and die. Provide a calcium source to support the shell. They do not typically eat healthy live plants, making them ideal for planted aquariums.
Behavior & temperament
Nerites are slow, peaceful, and entirely focused on grazing, making them excellent companions for community fish, shrimp, and other snails. They are content alone and do not require a group, though several can be kept to cover more algae. Avoid housing them with snail-eating species such as assassin snails, pufferfish, and certain loaches.
The main behavior to manage is escaping: nerites frequently climb above the waterline and can wander out of an open tank, so a tight lid is essential. In freshwater they may still deposit small white eggs on hard surfaces and decor; these are harmless and will not hatch without brackish water, but some keepers find them cosmetically unwelcome. Enrichment comes simply from ample grazing surfaces and a varied, algae-rich environment.
Health
Shell erosion is the most frequent issue, caused by soft water, low calcium, or acidic pH, which pits and thins the shell over time; maintaining hard, slightly alkaline, calcium-rich water and adding a cuttlebone or crushed coral prevents and slows it. Starvation is a real risk in spotless tanks with little algae, so supplemental feeding is important. Like all snails they are very sensitive to copper, so avoid copper-based medications.
Nerites can also be injured by falls when they climb and drop, or stressed by poor water quality and sudden parameter changes; drip-acclimate new arrivals. Provide stable, warm, well-buffered water and a secure lid to prevent escape and desiccation. Consult an aquatic veterinarian before adding any medication to a tank that houses snails.
This information is general guidance and not a substitute for advice from a qualified aquatic veterinarian.
Tips, DIY & hacks
They are the gold-standard algae eaters for green spot and diatom film and will not overpopulate, since their eggs need brackish/saltwater to hatch. Expect harmless white egg dots on hardscape, supplement with algae wafers in clean tanks, and never use copper-based treatments.
