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Peacock bass

Cichla ocellaris · also called Butterfly peacock bass, Tucunaré, Lukanani, Pavón

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Peacock bass

A large, fast-growing, vividly marked South American predatory cichlid prized by anglers and big-tank keepers. It is a hard-hitting piscivore that needs an enormous tank, and as an introduced game fish it is invasive in warm US waters, so it must never be released.

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Quick facts

SizeLarge predatory cichlid; commonly 12-18 in (30-45 cm), up to about 29 in (74 cm).
Lifespan8–15 years
Social needssolo
Native regionNorthern South America (Guianas and the Amazon/Orinoco region); widely introduced elsewhere
OriginNew World
Climate🌴 Tropical
Water type💧 Freshwater
FamilyCichlidae
GenusCichla

Part of the Monster fish

Large, long-lived predatory and oddball fish that need big tanks, strong filtration, and committed keepers.

Bala SharkFlorida garMotoro freshwater stingrayRopefish

Habitat & space requirements

From the minimum an animal needs to be kept humanely, up to the ideal setup. Bigger is almost always better — minimums are floors, not targets.

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Minimum

Adult cichlid monster tank

180 gal / 680 L (≥6 ft)

Cichla species reach 40–75 cm depending on species and are aggressive open-water piscivores. 6-ft tank is bare entry; smaller tanks cause stress damage and stunting.

Photo coming soon
Recommended

Large monster-cichlid system

300–500 gal / 1100–1900 L (8 ft+)

8-ft+ tank with massive filtration (4–6× turnover), strong cooling, and feeder-quality varied diet. Single specimen or carefully matched pair — they kill weaker tankmates.

Photo coming soon
Ideal

Indoor pond / public display

1000 gal+ / 3800 L+ pond

Indoor pond or public-aquarium-scale display with sand bottom, driftwood structures, and room to express full adult swimming range. Truly humane peacock-bass keeping.

Life & growth stages

How this animal changes through its life — each stage often has its own care, diet and space needs.

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Egg

Fish eggs are small, translucent spheres, often laid in clutches on plants, substrate, or in a nest — or carried/brooded by a parent in livebearing and mouth-brooding species. A dark eye spot and the curled embryo become visible inside as development progresses.

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Fry

Newly hatched fry are tiny and semi-transparent, frequently still carrying a yolk sac that fuels them before they feed freely. They lack full fin structure and adult coloration, staying near cover until they can swim and forage on their own.

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Juvenile

Juveniles look like miniature adults but with developing fins and muted or different markings; many species shift pattern and color as they mature. Growth is rapid at this stage given clean water and steady feeding.

Adult stage
Adult

Adults show the species' full size, finnage, and mature coloration, and are sexually mature. Many fish develop sex-specific differences in size, color, or fin shape, which can intensify during breeding.

Habitat & enclosure

A single adult needs a very large tank, at least 180 gallons (680 L) and realistically a 6 ft (180 cm) or longer footprint, with even bigger systems for multiples. Warm, soft to neutral water, pH 6.5-7.5, temperature 76-84F (24-29C), with strong filtration and brisk flow to mimic flowing rivers. Provide open swimming room with a few large, immovable rocks or driftwood for territory; this powerful fish needs space more than clutter. A secure lid prevents jumping.

Substrate

Use sand or smooth gravel, or bare-bottom in very large systems for easier cleaning of a messy predator. Avoid sharp decor that could injure a fast-moving fish. Keep the layout open with a few heavy, stable structures rather than fine breakable ornaments.

Equipment & setup

Needs oversized filtration (large sumps or multiple canisters), strong flow, a guarded heater, and a heavy, secure lid to prevent powerful jumps. Robust, immovable hardscape resists being shoved around. No UVB is required; focus on biological filtration, oxygenation, and water volume to support a big, hungry carnivore.

Diet

An apex piscivore. Feed thiaminase-free fish fillets (tilapia, whitefish), shrimp, prawn, earthworms, and large floating or sinking carnivore pellets, which most can be trained to accept. Avoid an exclusive diet of feeder fish, which carry disease and cause vitamin B1 deficiency; vary protein and supplement B1 if needed. Feed growing fish heavily but watch water quality, as this voracious eater produces heavy waste.

Behavior & temperament

Bold, active, and highly predatory, striking explosively at prey and intolerant of other fish in its space; it is best kept singly or only in very large systems with similarly robust, fast tankmates. It is not aggressive toward people but is skittish and powerful and can injure itself dashing into the glass or lid, so a large, calm setup helps. Not a handling fish; net it carefully and respect its size and strength.

Health

Generally hardy and disease-resistant given space and clean water, but prone to ich and bacterial infections under stress, head/snout damage from glass-surfing, and stunting or spinal deformity in undersized tanks. Thiaminase-rich feeder diets cause neurological B1-deficiency signs; rotate foods. Maintain heavy filtration and large water changes to control nitrate from its big appetite. Skittish dashing is the main injury risk, so minimize sudden disturbances.

Tips, DIY & hacks

Never release a peacock bass: Cichla species are established invasive game fish in Florida and parts of Hawaii and Texas and can be regulated or restricted, so check state law before keeping and rehome responsibly. Note that the aquarium-trade name covers several Cichla species and hybrids, so wild-collected or imported stock may not be true C. ocellaris. Wean juveniles onto pellets and varied fillet to avoid feeder-fish disease and B1 deficiency. Plan for a roughly 2-foot fish with a decade-long lifespan and a tank measured in hundreds of gallons.

Sources

  1. Seriously Fish: Cichla ocellaris (reference)
  2. FishBase: Cichla ocellaris (database)
  3. Wikipedia: Peacock bass (wiki)