A compact, attractive urchin with alternating velvety-blue (or red/green) bands and short rust-colored spines, resembling a tuxedo. It is a hardy, largely reef-safe algae grazer and one of the best urchins for cleaning nuisance film and hair algae. It often decorates itself with bits of rubble and shell.
ℹ️
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About 2-3 in (5-7.5 cm) in diameter including spines
Lifespan
3–5 years
Social needs
solo
Native region
Indo-Pacific reef flats
Origin
Old World
Climate
🌴 Tropical
Water type
🌊 Marine
Family
Temnopleuridae
Genus
Mespilia
Part of the Sea Urchins
Spiny echinoderm grazers prized as reef clean-up crew for mowing down film, hair and nuisance algae. Most are reef-safe but may dislodge loose corals, and all are highly intolerant of copper and sudden salinity changes.
From the minimum an animal needs to be kept humanely, up to the ideal setup. Bigger is almost always better — minimums are floors, not targets.
Photo coming soon
Minimum
Established reef tank
30+ gal mature reef with coralline
Tuxedo urchins (Mespilia globulus) graze coralline algae and detritus — need a mature reef with established coralline cover, stable salinity (1.025), and pristine chemistry. Drip-acclimate slowly.
Photo coming soon
Recommended
Mid-size reef display
50+ gal mature reef
A mid-size mature reef with active pod populations, coralline-covered rock, and gentle flow. They camouflage with shell/algae bits — provide loose rubble to pick up.
Photo coming soon
Ideal
Large mature mixed-reef
75+ gal mature mixed-reef
Larger reef with sustained coralline growth, ICP-stable chemistry, and a refugium for ongoing pod production. Tuxedo urchins help control algae but won't damage healthy coral.
Life & growth stages
How this animal changes through its life — each stage often has its own care, diet and space needs.
Photo coming soon
Larva
Most marine invertebrates hatch into microscopic planktonic larvae (such as the zoea of crustaceans or the bipinnaria/veliger of echinoderms and mollusks) that drift and feed in the water column. The larva looks nothing like the adult and undergoes major reorganization.
Photo coming soon
Juvenile
After settling out of the plankton, the juvenile takes on a recognizable miniature of the adult body plan — a tiny shell, a small star, or a translucent shrimp. Crustaceans grow by molting, shedding the exoskeleton to enlarge.
Adult
Adults reach full size and reproductive maturity with the species' mature shell, shape, or coloration. Many continue to molt or grow throughout life, and some show sex differences in size or claw/appendage shape.
Color & pattern variants
Natural variants occur in the wild; selectively bred (man-made) variants were developed in captivity.
Keep in an established reef or FOWLR tank of at least 20-30 gallons with plenty of live rock to graze. Maintain tropical reef parameters: temperature 72-80F (22-27C), pH 8.1-8.4, salinity SG 1.024-1.026, alkalinity 8-11 dKH, calcium 400-450 ppm, and low nitrate with zero ammonia/nitrite. Moderate flow and any reef lighting are fine; stable calcium and alkalinity help maintain the test and spines.
This urchin roams rockwork and glass grazing algae, so a mature tank with established algae growth is important to keep it fed. It naturally inhabits shallow Indo-Pacific reef flats.
Substrate
A live-rock aquascape is the main requirement, as the urchin grazes algae and coralline from rock and glass. Any sand or bare-bottom base is fine; the substrate type matters less than abundant grazing surface.
Equipment & setup
Standard reef gear is sufficient: protein skimmer, live-rock biofiltration, heater, and a powerhead for moderate flow. Maintain calcium and alkalinity (via dosing or a balanced supplement) to support the urchin's test and spines.
Diet
Primarily a herbivore that grazes film algae, hair algae, diatoms and coralline. In algae-poor tanks, supplement with dried seaweed (nori) on a clip, algae wafers or blanched vegetables a few times a week to prevent starvation and spine loss.
Behavior & temperament
Peaceful and generally reef-safe, though as it grazes it may bulldoze unattached frags, small corals or loose rockwork, so glue down corals and stack rock securely. It frequently camouflages itself with shells, rubble and even snail shells. House one per tank to avoid competition; it coexists well with fish and most inverts.
Health
Spine loss and a 'balding' test are the classic warning signs of starvation, poor water quality, or low calcium/alkalinity; correct husbandry and feed nori. Like all echinoderms it is extremely sensitive to copper, salinity swings and rapid acclimation, so quarantine medications are off-limits. Inspect new urchins for missing spine patches or a soft test.
Tips, DIY & hacks
Drip-acclimate over 1-2 hours and never expose the urchin to air, as trapped air harms echinoderms. It is an excellent natural control for hair and film algae; clip nori in lean tanks. Secure all corals and rockwork, since the urchin will wedge under and dislodge loose pieces while feeding.
