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Zoanthids

Zoanthus sp. · also called Zoas, Zoanthid polyps, Button polyps, Sea mats, Colony anemones

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Zoanthids

Zoanthids are colonial soft-bodied polyps prized for an almost unlimited range of fluorescent color morphs, making them one of the most popular beginner reef corals. They are hardy and fast-spreading, but their flesh contains palytoxin, a potent toxin demanding careful handling.

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Quick facts

SizeIndividual polyps ~0.25-0.75 in (6-20 mm) across; colonies spread into mats of dozens to hundreds of polyps over rock.
Lifespan10–50 years
Social needsgroup
Native regionTropical reefs worldwide (Indo-Pacific and Caribbean)
OriginWorldwide
Climate🌴 Tropical
Water type🌊 Marine
FamilyZoanthidae
GenusZoanthus

Part of the Zoanthids

Zoanthids and palythoas are colonial reef polyps (order Zoantharia) famous for an endless palette of fluorescent color morphs and easy, fast-spreading growth. Hardy and beginner-friendly, they nonetheless carry palytoxin in their tissue and must be handled with gloves and care.

Palythoa

Habitat & space requirements

From the minimum an animal needs to be kept humanely, up to the ideal setup. Bigger is almost always better — minimums are floors, not targets.

Photo coming soon
Minimum

Stable nano reef

10+ gal / Alk 8-9 / NO3 5-15 ppm

Zoanthids/palys are forgiving — low-medium light and flow are fine. Place mid-low. ⚠ Palytoxin: ALWAYS wear gloves + eye protection when fragging; never boil rock with palys. Zoanthids — small colourful polyps; spread across rock; palytoxin handling rules apply.

Photo coming soon
Recommended

Established 30-gal reef

30+ gal / stable nutrients

Established reef with moderate light + flow. Predators (sundials, nudibranchs) target zoas — inspect new frags.

Photo coming soon
Ideal

Mature mixed reef + dedicated zoa garden

75+ gal / display rock with named morphs

Mature reef where named zoa morphs can colour up and grow into garden patches. Zoanthids — small colourful polyps; spread across rock; palytoxin handling rules apply.

Life & growth stages

How this animal changes through its life — each stage often has its own care, diet and space needs.

Photo coming soon
Planula larva

Corals begin as a free-swimming planula larva released into the water column after spawning or brooding. The tiny, ciliated larva drifts and swims until it finds suitable hard substrate to settle on.

Photo coming soon
Single polyp

Once settled, the larva metamorphoses into a single founding polyp that secretes a calcium-carbonate (or proteinaceous) base and extends a ring of tentacles to feed. Reef-building corals begin laying down skeleton at this stage.

Mature colony stage
Mature colony

The founding polyp buds asexually into a colony of many genetically identical polyps, building the species' characteristic growth form — branching, plating, encrusting, or massive. A mature colony can reproduce and contributes to reef structure.

Color & pattern variants

Natural variants occur in the wild; selectively bred (man-made) variants were developed in captivity.

Natural
Eagle Eyerepresentative

Eagle Eye

CommonBeginner

An orange-to-red face with a darker purple center and outer ring, ringed by bright green tentacles that give it a striking 'eye' appearance. A foundational named zoa.

Tip: Very forgiving — low-to-moderate light and gentle flow on a lower rock; a great starter zoa for new reefers.

Fire & Icerepresentative

Fire & Ice

CommonBeginner

Popular morph pairing fiery orange/red rings against icy blue-green centers; hardy and fast-growing.

Tip: Fast grower that will overrun neighbors — give it an isolated frag rock or a flow channel margin so it doesn't sting adjacent corals as the colony spreads.

Rastarepresentative

Rasta

CommonBeginner

A classic three-tone morph with concentric rings of green, yellow/gold, and a red-to-orange skirt — the Rastafari color scheme that gives it its name. One of the most recognizable and widely traded zoas in the hobby.

Tip: Place in low-to-moderate light and gentle flow on the lower third of the tank; it colors up best under moderate PAR (around 100-150) rather than blasting light.

Sunny D / Orangerepresentative

Sunny D / Orange

CommonBeginner

Solid bright-orange to tangerine polyps, a cheerful, fast-spreading and forgiving morph popular with new reefers.

Tip: Orange morphs can fade under low light — keep them mid-tank with steady moderate PAR and they'll stay saturated and multiply quickly.

Blue Hornetrepresentative

Blue Hornet

RareBeginner

A sought-after deepwater zoa with a light blue center, a green ring, and a dark blue outer disc, with a two-layer fringe (dark blue base, neon green top).

Tip: Blue-spectrum light at moderate PAR maximizes the blue tones; low-to-mid placement with gentle flow.

Rainbow Incineratorrepresentative

Rainbow Incinerator

RareBeginner

A famous Zoanthus morph with a fiery orange-to-red center, a deep purple/violet ring, and a bright green skirt, named for its blazing rainbow color spread.

Tip: Hardy under low-to-moderate light and gentle flow; place low-to-mid and it colors up without high PAR. Always wear gloves and eye protection when handling zoas/palys.

Utter Chaosrepresentative

Utter Chaos

UncommonBeginner

Large dark polyps covered in a busy pattern of fluorescent orange speckles and blotches, with white speckling around the mouth and neon orange rings on the tentacles. The chaotic splatter pattern is its hallmark.

Tip: Moderate light and low-to-moderate flow; like most zoas it keeps color best when not overlit, so favor a mid-tank rock placement.

Fruit Loopsrepresentative

Fruit Loops

CommonBeginner

Vivid concentric rings of neon orange, yellow, and green that resemble the cereal, with bright orange skirts surrounding a face of purple and green. A cheerful, easy-to-grow morph.

Tip: Moderate light brings out the neon rings; keep flow gentle to moderate and give it room to spread on a flat rock.

Sunny Drepresentative

Sunny D

UncommonBeginner

A bright metallic orange face with a yellow-and-gold highlighted skirt and a vivid green mouth. Glowing and high-contrast among the warm-toned zoas.

Tip: Give it moderate light to keep the orange/yellow saturated; low-to-moderate flow on the mid-to-lower rockwork.

WWC Bowsersrepresentative

WWC Bowsers

RareBeginner

A bold zoa with a spiky orange/yellow skirt and dark contrasting body, named after the Mario villain for its menacing fiery look.

Tip: Moderate light and flow, low-to-mid in the tank; warm-colored zoas hold pigment better without excessive PAR.

Magiciansrepresentative

Magicians

UncommonBeginner

A zoa (Zoanthus) with a deep purple-to-maroon outer disc, a contrasting red/orange body, and a shimmering blue-teal metallic center near the mouth.

Tip: Blue-heavy lighting at moderate PAR makes the teal center and purple disc fluoresce; keep low-to-mid with gentle flow. One of the easier zoas to grow.

Armageddonrepresentative

Armageddon

RareBeginner

A dramatic dark morph — typically a purple-mouthed, mottled deep-purple face with a matching skirt. The blue-faced 'Frozen Armageddon' and related variants are sought-after color forms. A collector zoa.

Tip: Like most zoas it is hardy and easy; color up best under stable, moderate light and gentle flow. Dip and quarantine before adding, as expensive zoas are worth protecting.

Gorilla Nipplerepresentative

Gorilla Nipple

UncommonBeginner

A paly with a green skirt, orange/red ring and prominent pink raised mouth, named for its distinctive protruding center.

Tip: Moderate light and flow; the contrasting mouth shows best low-to-mid in the display. Wear gloves with palys.

Daisy Cutterrepresentative

Daisy Cutter

UncommonBeginner

A zoa with a bright green skirt, vibrant orange-red center and a neon green or yellow mouth, also known as the JF (Jason Fox) Star Gazer.

Tip: Moderate light (PAR ~80-200) with actinic blue enhances color; give room to spread as it grows quickly. Wear gloves and eye protection.

Tubbs Bluerepresentative

Tubbs Blue

UncommonBeginner

A blue-bodied Zoanthus (often listed as Zoanthus danae) prized for its intense blue-violet oral disc encircled by reddish-brown tentacles. One of the older, most recognizable blue morphs.

Tip: Blue coloration holds best under bluer/actinic-leaning light; moderate flow and a mid-tank placement suit it well.

Magicianrepresentative

Magician

UncommonBeginner

Known for an incredible electric-blue sparkle pattern at the center of the face, set against a darker body and contrasting skirt. The blue sparkle is the signature feature.

Tip: Blue pigment shows best under bluer/actinic-leaning light; keep flow gentle and avoid burying it in shadow.

Gobstopperrepresentative

Gobstopper

UncommonBeginner

A candy-like multicolor morph; the popular 'Everlasting Gobstopper' form shows a neon pink-to-magenta body, a vivid green mouth, and dark indigo eyelashes. Hardy and popular with collectors.

Tip: Forgiving under moderate light and gentle flow; many reefers note Gobstoppers grow and thrive reliably, making them a solid mid-tier collector piece.

Blow Poprepresentative

Blow Pop

UncommonBeginner

A candy-themed morph (also listed as 'Blowpop') with a steely blue-to-purple face, an orange mouth/center, and contrasting skirt. A recognizable named zoa.

Tip: Moderate light and gentle flow on the lower-to-mid rockwork keeps the colors vivid.

Pink Zipperrepresentative

Pink Zipper

UncommonBeginner

A bright pink and dark purple face peppered with glowing pink sparkles, with a small teal-blue bar on the skirts. The sparkly pink face is its hallmark.

Tip: Pink and teal pigments hold best under moderate, slightly blue-leaning light; keep flow gentle so the polyps open fully.

Krakatoarepresentative

Krakatoa

RareBeginner

A fiery red-orange morph with a contrasting center, named for the volcano. Derivative lines like 'Queen Krakatoa,' 'Speckled Krakatoa,' and 'Grand Master Krakatoa' are among the most prized zoas in the hobby.

Tip: Reds hold best under moderate light without being overexposed; stable parameters and gentle flow keep the fiery skirt saturated.

Speckled Krakatoarepresentative

Speckled Krakatoa

RareBeginner

A Krakatoa-lineage morph with a speckled, multicolor face — one of the most prized and elusive zoas among collectors. The speckled face distinguishes it from a standard Krakatoa.

Tip: A prized collector piece — keep it under stable moderate light and gentle flow, and dip/quarantine before adding to protect the investment.

Grand Master Krakatoa (GMK)representative

Grand Master Krakatoa (GMK)

Ultra-rareBeginner

A premium Krakatoa-lineage morph (Grand Master Krakatoa, GMK) with intense, layered fiery coloration spanning nearly the full rainbow. Often called the 'Holy Grail' of zoanthids and a notoriously slow grower, which adds to its exclusivity.

Tip: A patience piece — give it a stable, undisturbed spot with moderate light and gentle flow. It is hardy like other zoas but grows slowly, so don't expect to rush it with extra light or flow.

Whammin Watermelonrepresentative

Whammin Watermelon

UncommonBeginner

A watermelon-toned morph with green and pink/red coloration evoking the fruit, popping especially under actinic light. Bright and easy to grow.

Tip: Moderate light and gentle-to-moderate flow on the mid rockwork; gives a nice color pop next to orange/yellow morphs.

Bam Bamrepresentative

Bam Bam

CommonBeginner

A classic orange-skirted morph (often 'Bam Bam Orange' or 'Fiji Bam Bam') with intense orange fluorescence and an inner purple/blue ring. A long-time hobby staple.

Tip: Very hardy and fast-growing — low-to-moderate light (PAR ~100-250) and moderate flow on a lower rock; a good gateway zoa for beginners.

Daisy Dukerepresentative

Daisy Duke

UncommonBeginner

A bright, contrasting button-polyp morph, technically a Palythoa ('Daisy Duke's Palys') though traded and catalogued alongside zoanthids. Typically a vivid face with a bold skirt.

Tip: Moderate light and gentle flow; place where you can see the face color. As a Palythoa it can carry palytoxin, so handle with gloves and care.

King Midasrepresentative

King Midas

UncommonBeginner

A golden-yellow morph living up to its name, with a metallic gold center and skirt offset by a blue/purple outer ring. Bright and eye-catching among yellow zoas.

Tip: Yellow/gold pigment stays brightest under moderate light; gentle flow and a lower-to-mid placement work well.

My Clementinerepresentative

My Clementine

UncommonBeginner

A small-polyped morph with a deep indigo base and a bright orange center and skirt — a high-contrast orange-on-indigo morph (often 'My Clementines').

Tip: The indigo base holds better when not overlit; moderate light and gentle flow let the orange center glow.

Goblins on Firerepresentative

Goblins on Fire

UncommonBeginner

A high-contrast morph with a bright green center and a purple outer rim that runs up the lashes, terminating in neon orange — a blazing 'on fire' look. Popular and frequently restocked.

Tip: Moderate light keeps the green and fiery orange saturated; gentle flow and a mid-tank rock placement suit it.

Pink Diamondsrepresentative

Pink Diamonds

UncommonBeginner

Bright pink-faced polyps with a fluorescent yellow skirt and green accents, giving a jewel-like contrast. Listed by vendors as 'Pink Diamond(s).'

Tip: Pink and yellow pop best under moderate, slightly blue light; gentle flow and a clear, visible placement.

Lunar Eclipserepresentative

Lunar Eclipse

UncommonBeginner

A dark, moody morph with a fluorescent red/blue face and a lighter blue core glowing against a near-black body — named for the eclipse look. A striking dark zoa.

Tip: Dark-bodied morphs hold contrast best when not overlit; moderate light and gentle flow on the mid-tank rockwork.

Bob Marleyrepresentative

Bob Marley

CommonBeginner

A purple-centered, green-bodied morph with a signature orange ring and purple skirt — a 'Rasta-adjacent' piece in the Rastafari color family, named after the reggae legend. Hardy and widely grown.

Tip: Low-to-moderate light and gentle flow; a forgiving, small-to-medium-polyped morph good for filling in a zoa garden.

Wildflowerrepresentative

Wildflower

UncommonBeginner

A multicolor morph with a busy, varied face pattern that earns the 'wildflower' name. Sold as a WWC-named aquacultured line.

Tip: Moderate light and gentle flow; give it space to colony up so the varied faces show against each other.

Armor of God (AOG)representative

Armor of God (AOG)

UncommonBeginner

A bold morph, typically bright pink with dark black/blue variegation and sometimes a dark blue center, hence 'Armor of God.' Described as hardy and a good grower.

Tip: The pink and dark contrast hold well under moderate light; medium light and flow — it grows well, so give it room to spread.

Selectively bred (man-made)
Utter Chaos / Designer morphsrepresentative

Utter Chaos / Designer morphs

RareIntermediate

Line-named and aquacultured designer color forms selected and propagated in the frag trade for unique multicolor patterning and high market value.

Tip: Designer morphs hold color only within a specific light/flow window — quarantine and dip every frag for zoa-eating nudibranchs and spiders before adding to the display.

Utter Chaos (named line)representative

Utter Chaos (named line)

RareIntermediate

A specific iconic designer line: purple-pink skirts with red mouths and green discs, one of the morphs that started the zoa-naming craze.

Tip: Grows reliably for a designer zoa but stays compact — give it dedicated frag-plug real estate so the named line stays pure and isn't overgrown by faster neighbors.

Habitat & enclosure

Zoanthids attach to live rock or frag plugs and form spreading mats. They suit a wide placement range but color up best under moderate-to-bright reef lighting; many morphs hold deepest color at roughly 75-150 PAR, with some intense 'Rastas' and 'Utter Chaos' types tolerating higher light. Mount them on the rockwork (not the sandbed, where detritus and being buried can cause melting). Keep stable reef parameters: SG ~1.025, 76-80°F, pH 8.1-8.4, alkalinity 8-9 dKH, calcium ~420 ppm, magnesium ~1300 ppm, with low but not ultra-low nutrients—zoas often color and grow better with a little nitrate and phosphate present rather than in a stripped, sterile system.

Substrate

Best mounted on live rock or ceramic frag plugs glued or epoxied in place; they encrust outward across hard surfaces. Keep them off the sandbed where shifting sand, detritus, and burial cause tissue loss. A little detritus-free moderate flow at the base keeps polyps clean.

Equipment & setup

Standard reef setup: reef LED or T5 lighting providing moderate PAR, a return pump plus powerheads for moderate turbulent flow, a protein skimmer, and stable alkalinity/calcium via dosing or water changes. No special heat or UVB equipment—just a reliable aquarium heater and accurate parameter testing. Keep nitrate and phosphate low but detectable.

Diet

Largely photosynthetic via zooxanthellae, so light supplies most of their energy. They benefit from occasional feeding of fine particulate foods—reef roe, oyster eggs, phytoplankton, or finely chopped meaty foods—which can speed growth and intensify color, though it is not strictly required. Avoid overfeeding, which fouls water and feeds nuisance pests.

Behavior & temperament

Sessile colonial polyps with no real mobility; they expand and contract with light and water quality and spread by budding new polyps. They are mildly aggressive—capable of growing over and irritating neighboring corals—but lack the long sweeper tentacles of LPS, so modest spacing manages encounters. Handleability warning: zoanthids and the related Palythoa contain palytoxin, among the most lethal natural toxins known. Never boil rock with zoas, never scrape or cut polyps without gloves and eye protection, work in ventilated areas, and never let colony juices contact broken skin, eyes, or mouth. Poisonings have sent hobbyists to the hospital.

Health

A healthy colony opens fully with flat, vivid oral discs. Closed polyps for days, melting/dissolving tissue, or a colony receding signal stress—often poor flow, buried bases, low alkalinity swings, or pests. Watch for zoanthid-eating nudibranchs (often color-matched), 'zoa pox' (white pinhole spots), Sundial snails, and Asterina-type predation. A freshwater or coral-dip (e.g., iodine-based or Bayer dip) quarantine of new frags helps intercept pests. Sudden 'closing up' often resolves once flow, light, and water stability are corrected.

Tips, DIY & hacks

Glue frag plugs to rock so colonies climb the reef naturally. ALWAYS wear nitrile gloves and eye protection when fragging or handling—palytoxin is dangerous and aerosolizes if rock is scraped or boiled. Dip new frags to exclude zoa-eating nudibranchs and pox. If polyps stay closed, check for pests at the base, confirm flow is moderate (not blasting), and verify stable alkalinity. Many morphs 'stretch' and lose color under too little light—raise PAR gradually.

Sources

  1. Zoanthus Lamarck, 1801 — WoRMS World Register of Marine Species (reference)
  2. Palytoxin Poisoning in Aquarium Hobbyists — CDC / NCBI literature (care guide)
  3. Wikipedia: Zoanthids (wiki)