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Palythoa

Palythoa grandis · also called Palys, Button polyps, Sea mat, Giant palythoa, Moon polyps

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Palythoa

A hardy, fast-spreading colonial zoanthid coral (a 'soft coral' in trade terms) grown as buttons of polyps joined by a fleshy mat. Beginner-friendly and brightly colored, but notable for containing palytoxin — one of the most potent natural toxins known — so it must be handled with serious caution.

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Quick facts

SizeColonial polyps; P. grandis is a large-polyp species with individual polyps up to ~1-2 in (2.5-5 cm) across, spreading via a shared fleshy mat into colonies of
Lifespan5–100 years
Social needssolo
Native regionTropical western Atlantic and Caribbean (P. grandis); the genus also occurs across the Indo-Pacific
OriginWorldwide
Climate🌴 Tropical
Water type🌊 Marine
FamilySphenopidae
GenusPalythoa

Part of the Zoanthids

Zoanthids and palythoas are colonial reef polyps (order Zoantharia) famous for an endless palette of fluorescent color morphs and easy, fast-spreading growth. Hardy and beginner-friendly, they nonetheless carry palytoxin in their tissue and must be handled with gloves and care.

Zoanthids

Habitat & space requirements

From the minimum an animal needs to be kept humanely, up to the ideal setup. Bigger is almost always better — minimums are floors, not targets.

Photo coming soon
Minimum

Stable nano reef

10+ gal / Alk 8-9 / NO3 5-15 ppm

Zoanthids/palys are forgiving — low-medium light and flow are fine. Place mid-low. ⚠ Palytoxin: ALWAYS wear gloves + eye protection when fragging; never boil rock with palys. Palythoa — larger polyps than zoas, very high palytoxin content — gloves + eye protection MANDATORY; never boil/cook rock.

Photo coming soon
Recommended

Established 30-gal reef

30+ gal / stable nutrients

Established reef with moderate light + flow. Predators (sundials, nudibranchs) target zoas — inspect new frags.

Photo coming soon
Ideal

Mature mixed reef + dedicated zoa garden

75+ gal / display rock with named morphs

Mature reef where named zoa morphs can colour up and grow into garden patches. Palythoa — larger polyps than zoas, very high palytoxin content — gloves + eye protection MANDATORY; never boil/cook rock.

Life & growth stages

How this animal changes through its life — each stage often has its own care, diet and space needs.

Photo coming soon
Planula larva

Corals begin as a free-swimming planula larva released into the water column after spawning or brooding. The tiny, ciliated larva drifts and swims until it finds suitable hard substrate to settle on.

Photo coming soon
Single polyp

Once settled, the larva metamorphoses into a single founding polyp that secretes a calcium-carbonate (or proteinaceous) base and extends a ring of tentacles to feed. Reef-building corals begin laying down skeleton at this stage.

Mature colony stage
Mature colony

The founding polyp buds asexually into a colony of many genetically identical polyps, building the species' characteristic growth form — branching, plating, encrusting, or massive. A mature colony can reproduce and contributes to reef structure.

Color & pattern variants

Natural variants occur in the wild; selectively bred (man-made) variants were developed in captivity.

Natural
Green/Gold Palythoarepresentative

Green/Gold Palythoa

Common wild morphs with green or gold-centered polyps and contrasting skirts; very hardy and fast-spreading.

Gold/Sunny D Palythoarepresentative

Gold/Sunny D Palythoa

CommonBeginner

Large-polyped Palythoa grandis with golden-yellow centers and brown skirts; a hardy, fast-spreading mat coral.

Tip: WARNING: Palythoa carry palytoxin, among the most lethal natural toxins — wear gloves and eye protection when handling and NEVER boil/scrape rock with palys, as aerosolized toxin has hospitalized hobbyists.

Sunny Side Up Palythoarepresentative

Sunny Side Up Palythoa

CommonBeginner

Bright yellow center ringed by a contrasting skirt, resembling a fried egg; a vigorous beginner paly.

Tip: Thrives in low-to-moderate light and moderate flow; it spreads aggressively over rock, so isolate it on an island to keep it off prized corals — and still glove up for palytoxin.

Maui Pink / Pink Palythoarepresentative

Maui Pink / Pink Palythoa

UncommonBeginner

A pink-skirted grandis-type paly with a contrasting mouth; popular for its softer pastel coloration.

Tip: Pink holds best under blue-leaning light; feed the large polyps bits of meaty food weekly to boost size and color — with gloves on at all times.

Purple Death / Purple Deathstar Palythoarepresentative

Purple Death / Purple Deathstar Palythoa

UncommonBeginner

Deep purple skirt with a green/teal center; one of the most recognizable named paly morphs in the hobby.

Tip: Moderate light keeps the purple deep (high light browns it out); the name is apt — handle with extreme palytoxin caution and never expose open cuts.

Nuclear Green / Toxic Green Palythoarepresentative

Nuclear Green / Toxic Green Palythoa

CommonBeginner

Electric fluorescent-green polyps that glow hard under actinic light; an easy, fast-growing crowd-pleaser.

Tip: Blue/actinic lighting maximizes the green fluorescence; it's a weed-grade grower, so frag and trade rather than letting it carpet the tank — gloves mandatory.

Magician / Devil's Armor Palythoarepresentative

Magician / Devil's Armor Palythoa

RareIntermediate

High-end multi-color grandis palys with dark skirts and bright contrasting centers, sold under collector trade names.

Tip: These pricier morphs hold color best with stable parameters and moderate light; quarantine new frags and dip them, since palys can carry zoa-eating nudibranchs and spiders.

Nuclear Green Palythoarepresentative

Nuclear Green Palythoa

CommonBeginner

A bright nuclear-green large-polyp paly with a contrasting darker or cream center, forming dense mats of big open polyps.

Tip: Easy across a wide range of light and flow; give it room to spread since it encrusts aggressively over rock.

Grandis 'Sun' Palythoarepresentative

Grandis 'Sun' Palythoa

CommonBeginner

The large brown/tan *Palythoa grandis*-type polyp with a sun-burst oral disc — big dinner-plate polyps that fully open under light.

Tip: Moderate light and moderate flow; very hardy and a good beginner large paly, but wear gloves due to palytoxin risk.

Utter Chaosrepresentative

Utter Chaos

UncommonIntermediate

A large-polyp paly with a dark purple-to-black base splattered and swirled with yellow-green and accented by bright orange skirts, giving an almost psychedelic, mottled look.

Tip: Give it moderate light (PAR ~100-200) and low-to-medium flow. It can be touchy when first fragged, so place it somewhere stable and let it settle before moving it.

Captain Americarepresentative

Captain America

UncommonIntermediate

A large grandis-type paly named for its red-and-blue comic-book coloration, with a red-orange center ringed in bold blue and a vivid green skirt on big button polyps.

Tip: Acclimate slowly to light; it handles a wide range but colors up best under moderate lighting with slow-to-moderate current.

Captain Jerkrepresentative

Captain Jerk

UncommonIntermediate

A large-polyp paly with green, teal and yellow coloration and long, flowing skirts.

Tip: A fast grower tolerant of varied conditions; place on rock with moderate flow and moderate light and give it room to spread.

Red People Eaterrepresentative

Red People Eater

CommonBeginner

A classic paly with a red-to-purple face, a bright green mouth, and contrasting skirts that make for an unmistakable 'people eater' look.

Tip: Very forgiving; place anywhere with low-to-moderate light and gentle-to-moderate flow and it will quickly spread across the rock.

Butt Muncherrepresentative

Butt Muncher

UncommonIntermediate

A button polyp with bold mottled coloration, sold by various shops as both a paly and a zoa.

Tip: Treat like other button polyps: moderate light, low-to-medium flow, and a stable spot. If the skirts shorten, the flow may be too strong or too direct.

Sunny Drepresentative

Sunny D

CommonBeginner

A bright button polyp with a metallic orange face, a green mouth, and a yellow-gold highlighted skirt that can sparkle under stronger light.

Tip: Tolerates a wide range of light (PAR ~100-250); give low-to-medium flow and a bit more light to bring out the sparkly orange skirt.

WWC Emerald Grandisrepresentative

WWC Emerald Grandis

CommonBeginner

A true Palythoa grandis selection with large emerald-green button polyps that can approach 1.5-2 inches across.

Tip: Fast growing and tolerant; World Wide Corals recommends medium light and stronger flow. Mount on rock and keep detritus from settling on the polyps.

WWC Green Grandisrepresentative

WWC Green Grandis

CommonBeginner

A fast-growing green Palythoa grandis with large button polyps whose color shifts noticeably with the lighting it is given.

Tip: Give it room to spread on the rockwork; low-to-moderate light and moderate flow are plenty, and it will quickly form a colony.

Palythoa grandis (Cinnamon / Sun Paly)representative

Palythoa grandis (Cinnamon / Sun Paly)

CommonBeginner

The classic wild-collected Palythoa grandis, the largest of the button polyps, in warm green/brown 'cinnamon' tones; the species is also sold as 'Sun Paly' or 'Sun Polyp.'

Tip: Extremely adaptable to current and light; mount on rock and it will steadily add new polyps under basic reef conditions. Note that grandis is among the most palytoxin-heavy palys, so handle with gloves and eye protection.

Selectively bred (man-made)
Designer 'Paly' morphsrepresentative

Designer 'Paly' morphs

Collector-named aquacultured strains (e.g., 'Nuclear Green,' 'Sunny D,' 'Grandis' color forms) line-selected and propagated for vivid multicolor polyps in the frag trade.

Aquacultured Palythoa Fragrepresentative

Aquacultured Palythoa Frag

CommonBeginner

Tank-propagated paly frags of named morphs glued to plugs; the standard, pest-reduced way palys are sold today.

Tip: Even on aquacultured frags, treat every Palythoa as toxic — the single most important paly tip is gloves, eye protection, and good ventilation, every single time.

Magician Palythoarepresentative

Magician Palythoa

RareBeginner

A large-polyp paly known for an electric blue, sparkly, spattered contrasting center on the oral disc — like a dropped splatter of paint against the surrounding face.

Tip: Moderate light and moderate flow on mid-level rockwork; palys tolerate higher nutrients than acros and respond very well to feeding, so they thrive in established tanks.

Armageddon Palythoarepresentative

Armageddon Palythoa

UncommonBeginner

A large paly best known for shocking orange rings around the mouth and the edge of the oral disc, giving a high-contrast, fiery look; exact coloration can shift between tanks.

Tip: Moderate flow and light on rockwork; like all palys, handle with gloves — palythoa can carry potent palytoxin.

Sunny D Palythoarepresentative

Sunny D Palythoa

UncommonBeginner

A paly named 'Sunny D' for its bright green body lit by intense orange highlights, a clean and cheerful citrus-toned morph.

Tip: Tolerates a wide range of light and prefers low-to-medium flow; moderate light helps the orange highlights pop. Place on rockwork and avoid deep shade.

Bam Bam Orange Palythoa/Zoarepresentative

Bam Bam Orange Palythoa/Zoa

UncommonBeginner

An intensely orange, fluorescent orange-skirted polyp — one of the most recognizable orange morphs traded, valued because true orange is uncommon in reef tanks.

Tip: Moderate-to-bright light keeps the orange fluorescence saturated; moderate flow and mid-rock placement work well. A hardy, fast-growing beginner morph.

Daisy Duke's Palyrepresentative

Daisy Duke's Paly

RareIntermediate

A designer paly with a bright ring of pink surrounded by another ring of pastel pink, giving a soft, layered bullseye look.

Tip: The Jason Fox listing calls for high light and high flow; under those conditions the pinks stay saturated. Acclimate to intensity gradually so it does not bleach.

Habitat & enclosure

Suited to almost any established reef tank, from nano (40 L / 10 gal) upward. Place low to mid on rock in moderate flow; it tolerates a wide range and spreads readily across rockwork. Lighting is flexible — roughly 50-150 PAR — with brighter, blue-rich light intensifying coloration; many morphs color up beautifully under moderate reef LED/T5. Maintain standard reef parameters: SG ~1.025, 76-80°F (24-27°C), pH 8.1-8.4, alkalinity 8-11 dKH. It is forgiving of slightly elevated nutrients and is a classic 'hardy first coral,' though stable conditions still give the best color and growth.

Substrate

Encrusts hard surfaces — glue or epoxy frags onto plugs or live rock; the mat then spreads on its own. It does not belong on bare sand. Keep an eye on where the mat is heading so it doesn't overrun more valuable corals.

Equipment & setup

Minimal: moderate reef LED/T5 lighting, a powerhead for moderate flow, and standard biological filtration with a skimmer. No special demand for heavy calcium/alkalinity dosing since it has no stony skeleton. Essential safety gear for the keeper: nitrile gloves and eye protection for any handling or fragging, plus good room ventilation.

Diet

Largely photosynthetic via zooxanthellae, but a willing feeder — P. grandis has large polyps that readily capture meaty foods. Target-feed mysis, brine, or chopped seafood occasionally to boost growth; in a well-lit, lightly fed tank it thrives on light and dissolved nutrients alone. Avoid overfeeding, which can foul the mat.

Behavior & temperament

Sessile colonial polyps connected by a coenenchyme (mat) that creeps across rock, encrusting and overgrowing slower neighbours — it competes by smothering rather than by long sweeper tentacles. Not aggressive with stinging tentacles, but its rapid spread can crowd out other corals, so give it a 'parking spot' or isolated rock. Polyps close up tightly when disturbed and reopen when settled.

Health

Very hardy and disease-resistant. Main captive threats are zoanthid-eating pests — 'zoa-eating nudibranchs,' sundial snails, and spiders — and 'melting' from poor water quality or being stung by aggressive neighbours; dip and inspect every new colony. The most important health note is for the keeper, not the coral: Palythoa tissue can carry palytoxin, a lethal toxin that is dangerous if it contacts broken skin, eyes, or mucous membranes, and is especially hazardous if aerosolized. NEVER boil or scrape rock or corals to remove palys — boiling is the single most dangerous route of palytoxin exposure and has hospitalized aquarists with respiratory poisoning. Only handle or frag palys with nitrile gloves and eye protection in a well-ventilated area, and never with cuts on your hands.

Tips, DIY & hacks

Fragging is easy — separate polyps where the mat thins, or cut a section of rock — but ALWAYS wear gloves and eye protection and work with cool, wet tissue (never dry-scrape or heat it) because of palytoxin risk; wash hands and tools afterward. Acclimate to light gradually and place on dedicated rock so its spread is contained. If you have cuts on your hands or are immunocompromised, have an experienced reefer handle it.

Sources

  1. Palythoa grandis (Verrill, 1900) — WoRMS World Register of Marine Species (reference)
  2. Palytoxin from Palythoa zoanthids is really, REALLY dangerous — Reef Builders (guide)
  3. Wikipedia: Palythoa (wiki)