An Old World fossorial tarantula with electric-blue legs, considered a display-only species because it is fast, defensive, and bites readily with potent venom. Beautiful but emphatically not for beginners or handling.
ℹ️
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Medium-large; leg span about 5-6 in (13-15 cm), with iridescent cobalt-blue legs.
Lifespan
3–20 years
Social needs
solo
Native region
Myanmar, Thailand, and mainland Southeast Asia (tropical forest floor)
Origin
Old World
Climate
🌴 Tropical
Family
Theraphosidae
Genus
Cyriopagopus
Part of the Tarantulas
Theraphosid spiders kept as low-maintenance display invertebrates. New World species are generally docile with mild venom but bear irritating urticating hairs, while Old World species lack those hairs but tend to be fast, defensive, and have more potent (though rarely life-threatening) venom.
From the minimum an animal needs to be kept humanely, up to the ideal setup. Bigger is almost always better — minimums are floors, not targets.
Photo coming soon
Minimum
Juvenile fossorial setup
8 × 8 × 10 in with 4–6 in substrate
Burrower setup with packed coco-fibre / topsoil deep enough to support a starter burrow, a cork-bark starter tunnel, and a water dish. The spider will spend most of its time underground; sparse surface decor is fine. Cobalt blues (Cyriopagopus lividus) are fast, defensive old-world fossorials — deep humid substrate, expect to see the spider only during feeding.
Photo coming soon
Recommended
Adult fossorial enclosure
12 × 12 × 12 in with 8–10 in substrate
Deep, firmly packed substrate so burrow walls hold; this matters more than floor area for true fossorials. Provide a starter burrow under cork bark, a water dish, and minimal disturbance.
Photo coming soon
Ideal
Deep-substrate naturalistic burrow
14 × 14 × 16 in with 10–15 in substrate
Tall front-opening enclosure packed with dense substrate, allowing the spider to engineer a multi-chambered burrow visible from the side. Bioactive cleanup and a stable humidity gradient support long, calm captivity.
Life & growth stages
How this animal changes through its life — each stage often has its own care, diet and space needs.
Photo coming soon
Egg
These invertebrates lay eggs — often in a guarded clutch, a silk sac (spiders), or a brood (carried by female isopods). The eggs are small and soft and develop without a true larval or pupal transformation.
Photo coming soon
Juvenile
Juveniles hatch as miniature versions of the adult and grow by molting their exoskeleton (or, in snails, by enlarging the shell). They gain size, segments, or leg pairs and gradually take on adult coloration with each molt.
Adult
Adults reach full size and reproductive maturity with the species' mature form and coloration. Many arachnids and myriapods continue to molt as adults, and sexes can differ in size or in specialized appendages.
Habitat & enclosure
Keep one spider alone in a deep fossorial enclosure with at least 6-8 in (15-20 cm) of substrate for burrowing; floor space and depth matter more than height. Provide a starter burrow against the glass and a cork-bark hide. As a Southeast Asian species it needs warmth and moderate-to-high humidity: 77-85F (25-29C) with most of the substrate kept fairly dry and one corner periodically moistened to maintain a damp soil pocket. Good cross-ventilation is important. No UVB required. This spider lives underground and may rarely be seen.
Substrate
Use 6-8 in (15-20 cm) of a moisture-retentive coco-fiber/topsoil mix that holds a burrow. Keep most of it on the drier side with one periodically moistened corner; do not waterlog the whole enclosure. Pack it firmly enough to support tunnels. Spot-clean to prevent mold in the humid setup.
Equipment & setup
Provide gentle, thermostat-controlled supplemental heat if the room is below ~72F (side-mounted, never under a deep burrow). No UVB. A deep, well-ventilated enclosure, a moisture-retentive substrate, a starter burrow, and a water dish are essential. Long feeding tongs and a catch cup are mandatory safety equipment for an Old World defensive species.
Diet
Feed crickets, dubia roaches, and other appropriately sized feeders; it ambushes prey from its burrow. Slings feed 2-3x weekly, juveniles weekly, adults every 1-2 weeks. Drop prey near the burrow entrance. Remove uneaten prey, withhold food in premolt, and keep a water dish topped up.
Behavior & temperament
A defensive, fast Old World species with no urticating hairs but significant venom. It will throw a threat posture and bite readily, and bites are reported to cause intense localized pain, muscle cramping, and prolonged discomfort lasting days, though no confirmed human fatalities exist for tarantulas. It is strictly a look-don't-touch animal; do not attempt handling. Most of its life is spent in its burrow, so it is more of a 'pet hole' than a visible display.
Health
Hardy if humidity and warmth are correct, but sensitive to dry, poorly ventilated, or stagnant-wet conditions. Keep a damp soil pocket while the surface stays drier to avoid both dehydration and mold. The most common keeper injuries come from rushed maintenance, so work slowly with long tools and catch cups. Never disturb a molting spider.
Tips, DIY & hacks
Set up the burrow and humidity gradient before adding the spider, then disturb it as little as possible. Always do maintenance with long tools and a catch cup, and respect that this is an experienced-keeper, no-handling species. Check local exotic-pet rules, as some jurisdictions restrict venomous or 'dangerous' invertebrates.
