An infamously defensive African tarantula nicknamed the 'orange bitey thing' for its lightning speed and readiness to bite. Hardy and simple in husbandry but with medically significant venom, it is an experienced-keeper display animal, not a beginner or handling pet.
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Medium, lightweight semi-fossorial/arboreal; leg span 4-6 in (10-15 cm)
Lifespan
10–15 years
Social needs
solo
Native region
Central, East, and southern Africa
Origin
Old World
Climate
🌴 Tropical
Family
Theraphosidae
Genus
Pterinochilus
Part of the Tarantulas
Theraphosid spiders kept as low-maintenance display invertebrates. New World species are generally docile with mild venom but bear irritating urticating hairs, while Old World species lack those hairs but tend to be fast, defensive, and have more potent (though rarely life-threatening) venom.
From the minimum an animal needs to be kept humanely, up to the ideal setup. Bigger is almost always better — minimums are floors, not targets.
Photo coming soon
Minimum
Juvenile fossorial setup
8 × 8 × 10 in with 4–6 in substrate
Burrower setup with packed coco-fibre / topsoil deep enough to support a starter burrow, a cork-bark starter tunnel, and a water dish. The spider will spend most of its time underground; sparse surface decor is fine. Orange baboons (Pterinochilus murinus, 'OBT') are infamously defensive old-world fossorials — secure lid, long tongs, very deep substrate; expert keepers only.
Photo coming soon
Recommended
Adult fossorial enclosure
12 × 12 × 12 in with 8–10 in substrate
Deep, firmly packed substrate so burrow walls hold; this matters more than floor area for true fossorials. Provide a starter burrow under cork bark, a water dish, and minimal disturbance.
Photo coming soon
Ideal
Deep-substrate naturalistic burrow
14 × 14 × 16 in with 10–15 in substrate
Tall front-opening enclosure packed with dense substrate, allowing the spider to engineer a multi-chambered burrow visible from the side. Bioactive cleanup and a stable humidity gradient support long, calm captivity.
Life & growth stages
How this animal changes through its life — each stage often has its own care, diet and space needs.
Photo coming soon
Egg
These invertebrates lay eggs — often in a guarded clutch, a silk sac (spiders), or a brood (carried by female isopods). The eggs are small and soft and develop without a true larval or pupal transformation.
Photo coming soon
Juvenile
Juveniles hatch as miniature versions of the adult and grow by molting their exoskeleton (or, in snails, by enlarging the shell). They gain size, segments, or leg pairs and gradually take on adult coloration with each molt.
Adult
Adults reach full size and reproductive maturity with the species' mature form and coloration. Many arachnids and myriapods continue to molt as adults, and sexes can differ in size or in specialized appendages.
Color & pattern variants
Natural variants occur in the wild; selectively bred (man-made) variants were developed in captivity.
Natural
representative
Usambara (orange / 'OBT') form
The vivid orange locality form from the Usambara region, the most popular and intensely colored variant in the hobby.
representative
Mombasa golden starburst
A more golden-brown locality form with a pronounced starburst carapace pattern.
Habitat & enclosure
A single spider does well in a 10x10x10 in to 12x12x12 in enclosure offering both burrowing depth (4-6 in of substrate) and vertical anchors for its heavy webbing. Provide cork bark for it to web between. Keep temps 75-82 F (24-28 C) and humidity around 60-70% by dampening part of the substrate; this is an adaptable, drought-tolerant species that tolerates drier conditions than many.
Substrate
A coco fiber/topsoil mix 4-6 in deep that holds a burrow while supporting heavy surface webbing. Keep mostly on the drier side with one lightly moistened corner.
Equipment & setup
No UVB required. Ambient room temperature is usually sufficient; use a side-mounted thermostatic heat mat only if the room is cold. A secure, escape-proof lid is critical given its speed. Provide a water dish, cork bark, and a hygrometer/thermometer.
Diet
A voracious feeder taking crickets, dubia roaches, and locusts. Feed slings 1-2 times weekly and adults every 7-14 days. It will often web up and ambush prey aggressively. Remove uneaten prey before molts.
Behavior & temperament
One of the most defensive tarantulas in the hobby: extremely fast, prone to threat postures, and quick to bite with little provocation. Venom causes intense pain, swelling, and cramping that can last days. No urticating hairs. Absolutely not handleable; use careful, deliberate maintenance with long tools. Despite its temperament its husbandry is hardy and forgiving, just never its temperament.
Health
Very hardy and resilient to husbandry mistakes. Main risks are dehydration if kept bone-dry without water, and keeper bites from careless maintenance. Keep a water dish, avoid overly wet stagnant conditions, and minimize stress during molts.
Tips, DIY & hacks
Do all maintenance with the enclosure on a table at chest height and a catch cup ready, as these spiders bolt. Never open the lid without knowing where the spider is. Color forms (e.g., the bright Usambara 'orange' form) are the same species. Great display animal for keepers who respect its speed.
