The ramshorn snail is a flat, coil-shelled freshwater snail named for its tightly wound shell that resembles a ram's horn. Hardy, peaceful and unfussy, it is a classic algae- and detritus-grazing cleanup snail that breeds readily in established tanks. Available in red/pink (haemoglobin-pigmented), brown and blue trade forms, it is equally at home in community aquariums and as live food cultures, though its prolific breeding means populations need managing.
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Shell up to about 2.5 cm (1 in) across; most stay 1-2 cm.
Lifespan
1–2 years
Social needs
group
Native region
North America (Florida, USA)
Origin
New World
Climate
⛅ Subtropical
Water type
💧 Freshwater
Family
Planorbidae
Genus
Planorbella
Part of the Freshwater snails
Algae-grazing and detritus-cleaning aquarium snails — from tiny ramshorns and nerites to large mystery, rabbit and trapdoor snails. Hardy invertebrate cleanup crew for planted and community freshwater tanks, most needing mineral-rich water for strong shells.
From the minimum an animal needs to be kept humanely, up to the ideal setup. Bigger is almost always better — minimums are floors, not targets.
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Minimum
Any cycled FW tank
5+ gal cycled
Ramshorn snails (Planorbidae) are small peaceful algae-eaters — any cycled FW tank with hard water and stable chemistry. Often arrive as hitchhikers on plants.
Photo coming soon
Recommended
Planted community tank
10–20 gal planted
Planted community tank with algae growth and occasional blanched veg. Hard water (GH 8+) for shell strength. They breed readily — pair with assassin snails if population control is needed.
Photo coming soon
Ideal
Planted shrimp/snail biotope
20 gal+ planted shrimp-safe
Planted shrimp-safe biotope with stable hard water, calcium supplement, and ongoing algae growth. Vibrant red/blue colour morphs become a feature.
Life & growth stages
How this animal changes through its life — each stage often has its own care, diet and space needs.
Photo coming soon
Larva
Most marine invertebrates hatch into microscopic planktonic larvae (such as the zoea of crustaceans or the bipinnaria/veliger of echinoderms and mollusks) that drift and feed in the water column. The larva looks nothing like the adult and undergoes major reorganization.
Photo coming soon
Juvenile
After settling out of the plankton, the juvenile takes on a recognizable miniature of the adult body plan — a tiny shell, a small star, or a translucent shrimp. Crustaceans grow by molting, shedding the exoskeleton to enlarge.
Adult
Adults reach full size and reproductive maturity with the species' mature shell, shape, or coloration. Many continue to molt or grow throughout life, and some show sex differences in size or claw/appendage shape.
Color & pattern variants
Natural variants occur in the wild; selectively bred (man-made) variants were developed in captivity.
Keep in a stable, cycled freshwater aquarium of 20 L (5 gal) or more; a small colony thrives in nano tanks while larger numbers suit community setups. Target 21-26 C (70-79 F), pH 7.0-8.0 and moderately hard, mineral-rich water (GH 6-15) — adequate calcium and carbonate hardness are essential for healthy shell growth. Gentle to moderate flow is ideal; they tolerate planted, low-tech conditions well and need no special lighting beyond what the plants require.
Soft, acidic water pits and erodes the shell over time, so re-mineralise very soft tap or RO water. A mature tank with biofilm, leaf litter and algae provides natural grazing.
Substrate
Any substrate works — fine sand, gravel or planted soil. A layer of leaf litter, driftwood and live plants boosts grazeable biofilm and detritus, which the snails favour.
Equipment & setup
A gently-filtered, heated freshwater tank is all that is needed; cover or guard filter intakes so small snails are not drawn in. No protein skimmer, CO2 or special lighting is required, but if dosing CO2 or fertilisers ensure copper-free, invert-safe products.
Diet
Omnivorous grazer and detritivore that feeds on soft algae, biofilm, decaying plant matter, leftover fish food and dead tankmates. It will nibble very soft or dying plant tissue but generally leaves healthy plants alone. Supplement sparse tanks with blanched vegetables (courgette, spinach), algae wafers and a calcium source such as cuttlebone or crushed coral to support shell hardness.
Behavior & temperament
Completely peaceful, non-aggressive and reef-irrelevant (freshwater only). Safe with shrimp, fish fry, other snails and community fish, though it is itself prey for assassin snails, loaches, pufferfish and some cichlids. Hermaphroditic and a prolific egg-layer, so even a single snail can found a colony; numbers are best controlled by limiting feeding rather than by predators in a peaceful tank.
Health
Generally very hardy. The main issue is shell erosion, white pitting or thin/cracked shells caused by soft or acidic water and low calcium — correct hardness and add a calcium source. Snails sealed up and floating or not moving for long periods may be dead (a foul smell confirms it); remove promptly to protect water quality. Copper-based fish medications and many invertebrate-unsafe treatments are lethal, so avoid them.
Tips, DIY & hacks
To curb a population boom, simply feed less and manually remove snails or floating egg clutches (clear jelly blobs on glass and decor); a sinking veg slice or lettuce leaf left overnight can be lifted out covered in snails. Drip-acclimate new snails over 20-30 minutes, and never add copper medications. Many hobbyists deliberately culture ramshorns as nutritious live food for pufferfish, loaches and assassin snails.
