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Bark scorpion

Centruroides vittatus · also called Striped bark scorpion, Common striped scorpion

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Bark scorpion

A small, agile striped scorpion native to the south-central US and northern Mexico, common and often kept by hobbyists. Its sting is painful but not considered medically important to healthy people — unlike its far more dangerous relative the Arizona bark scorpion.

Educational only. KinStation content is reviewed by licensed veterinarians but cannot replace an in-person exam. Always consult a licensed veterinarian or board-certified specialist for diagnosis, treatment, or any decision affecting your pet's health.

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Quick facts

SizeSmall and slender, roughly 5-7 cm (2-2.75 in) including the tail, with two dark longitudinal stripes down the back.
Lifespan3–6 years
Social needssolo
Native regionNorth America
OriginNew World
Climate⛅ Subtropical
FamilyButhidae
GenusCentruroides

Part of the Scorpions

Scorpions are long-lived arachnids kept as hardy display invertebrates. Most are defensive, not for handling, and range from mild-venom desert species to potent old-world species suited only to experienced keepers.

Asian forest scorpionDesert hairy scorpionEmperor scorpionFlat rock scorpionGiant vinegaroon

Habitat & space requirements

From the minimum an animal needs to be kept humanely, up to the ideal setup. Bigger is almost always better — minimums are floors, not targets.

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Minimum

Juvenile arid scorpion

5–10 gal (≈ 20 × 10 × 10 in)

Dry sand/clay substrate 2–4 in deep, a flat rock or piece of slate for a hide, a low-wattage heat source on one side for a gradient, and a small water dish refreshed weekly. Bark scorpions (Centruroides spp.) have medically significant venom — secure escape-proof lid, vertical bark hides; expert keepers only.

Photo coming soon
Recommended

Adult arid enclosure

10–20 gal long, arid

Longer footprint over height; deeper substrate (4–6 in) so the animal can scrape a scrape-under or burrow. Warm end 30–32 °C, cool end ambient; humidity stays low with good ventilation.

Photo coming soon
Ideal

Naturalistic arid vivarium

20 gal long+ with sculpted rockwork

Larger arid vivarium with layered rock hides, a clay-bound sand substrate that holds tunnels, and a stable thermal gradient. Single-housed unless the species is communal.

Life & growth stages

How this animal changes through its life — each stage often has its own care, diet and space needs.

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Egg

These invertebrates lay eggs — often in a guarded clutch, a silk sac (spiders), or a brood (carried by female isopods). The eggs are small and soft and develop without a true larval or pupal transformation.

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Juvenile

Juveniles hatch as miniature versions of the adult and grow by molting their exoskeleton (or, in snails, by enlarging the shell). They gain size, segments, or leg pairs and gradually take on adult coloration with each molt.

Adult stage
Adult

Adults reach full size and reproductive maturity with the species' mature form and coloration. Many arachnids and myriapods continue to molt as adults, and sexes can differ in size or in specialized appendages.

Habitat & enclosure

A 2.5-5 gallon (10-20 L) terrarium suits one adult; floor space with climbing structure beats height-only enclosures, since this is an arboreal/saxicolous (bark- and rock-dwelling) species. Provide bark slabs, cork, and rocks for it to cling under. Keep warm and fairly dry: 24-30 C (75-86 F) and ~40-50% humidity with a small water source. Ensure an absolutely secure, fine-mesh or gasket lid — they are excellent climbers and squeeze through tiny gaps.

Substrate

A few centimeters of dry sand/coco-fiber/soil mix that holds a little structure; lightly mist one corner for a humidity gradient but keep the bulk dry. Bark and rock hides are more important than substrate depth for this clinging species.

Equipment & setup

Side or low overhead heat on a thermostat to hold mid-to-high 20s C; no UVB needed. Essential: a very secure escape-proof lid, long feeding/maintenance forceps, a thermometer/hygrometer, climbing bark, and a shallow water dish. A UV flashlight aids nighttime viewing.

Diet

Feed small gut-loaded crickets, roach nymphs, and similar insects every 5-10 days, sized to the scorpion's body. Remove uneaten prey. Provide water via a shallow dish with pebbles or a damp sponge.

Behavior & temperament

Fast, flighty, and prone to running or stinging when disturbed — this is NOT a handling species. As a buthid, its venom is neurotoxic; a C. vittatus sting causes sharp pain, swelling, and numbness that usually subsides within hours and is rarely dangerous. The species is generally regarded as not medically important, but reactions can still be more serious in children, the elderly, or allergic individuals (anaphylaxis is the main risk). Treat all bark scorpions as off-limits to bare-hand contact and never confuse it with the genuinely dangerous Arizona bark scorpion (C. sculpturatus). Nocturnal; often climbs and hangs upside-down.

Health

Hardy if kept dry and warm with good ventilation; damp, stagnant conditions invite mold and mites. Because it is venomous, the biggest 'health' concern is keeper safety — work with long forceps, keep the enclosure secured, and seek medical advice for any sting in a child, elderly, or allergic person. Check local and state law: keeping venomous arachnids is restricted or requires permits in some US jurisdictions.

Tips, DIY & hacks

Always assume the animal is faster than you and keep a catch cup ready. Maintain the enclosure with the lid mostly on and use 12-inch forceps. Keep it dry and ventilated. Verify legality in your state/municipality before acquiring any venomous scorpion, and never handle.

Sources

  1. The Scorpion Files (J. Ove Rein) — Centruroides vittatus (reference)
  2. BugGuide — Centruroides vittatus (reference)
  3. Wikipedia: Bark scorpion (wiki)