The largest scorpion native to North America, a robust desert burrower covered in sensory hairs. Hardy and long-lived, with mild venom, but defensive and not a handling pet; best kept as a striking display arachnid.
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Large; 4-5.5 in (10-14 cm), the largest scorpion in North America.
Lifespan
10–20 years
Social needs
solo
Native region
Southwestern United States and northwestern Mexico (Sonoran and Mojave Deserts)
Origin
New World
Climate
🏜️ Arid
Family
Caraboctonidae
Genus
Hadrurus
Part of the Scorpions
Scorpions are long-lived arachnids kept as hardy display invertebrates. Most are defensive, not for handling, and range from mild-venom desert species to potent old-world species suited only to experienced keepers.
From the minimum an animal needs to be kept humanely, up to the ideal setup. Bigger is almost always better — minimums are floors, not targets.
Photo coming soon
Minimum
Juvenile arid scorpion
5–10 gal (≈ 20 × 10 × 10 in)
Dry sand/clay substrate 2–4 in deep, a flat rock or piece of slate for a hide, a low-wattage heat source on one side for a gradient, and a small water dish refreshed weekly. Desert hairies (Hadrurus arizonensis) are large arid burrowers — provide deep dry sand/clay substrate (6+ in) so they can excavate a scrape.
Photo coming soon
Recommended
Adult arid enclosure
10–20 gal long, arid
Longer footprint over height; deeper substrate (4–6 in) so the animal can scrape a scrape-under or burrow. Warm end 30–32 °C, cool end ambient; humidity stays low with good ventilation.
Photo coming soon
Ideal
Naturalistic arid vivarium
20 gal long+ with sculpted rockwork
Larger arid vivarium with layered rock hides, a clay-bound sand substrate that holds tunnels, and a stable thermal gradient. Single-housed unless the species is communal.
Life & growth stages
How this animal changes through its life — each stage often has its own care, diet and space needs.
Photo coming soon
Egg
These invertebrates lay eggs — often in a guarded clutch, a silk sac (spiders), or a brood (carried by female isopods). The eggs are small and soft and develop without a true larval or pupal transformation.
Photo coming soon
Juvenile
Juveniles hatch as miniature versions of the adult and grow by molting their exoskeleton (or, in snails, by enlarging the shell). They gain size, segments, or leg pairs and gradually take on adult coloration with each molt.
Adult
Adults reach full size and reproductive maturity with the species' mature form and coloration. Many arachnids and myriapods continue to molt as adults, and sexes can differ in size or in specialized appendages.
Habitat & enclosure
A single adult needs a 5-10 gallon (19-38 L) arid terrarium that is wider than tall, with a secure lid. Provide deep substrate for burrowing and a hide. Keep it hot and dry: 80-90 F (27-32 C) gradient by day, cooler at night, with low humidity (30-40%) and excellent ventilation. Offer a shallow water dish. UVB is not required (they fluoresce under UV but it is for viewing only). Keep one scorpion per enclosure; they are cannibalistic.
Substrate
Provide 3-5 in (7.5-13 cm) of a burrowable desert mix such as sand blended with coco coir or excavator/clay-style substrate that holds a burrow. Keep it dry overall, with at most a slightly damp lower layer; the surface should stay arid. Add a cork bark or rock hide (anchored to the floor) and avoid loose deep gravel that could cause impaction.
Equipment & setup
Use a low-wattage heat mat or overhead heat on the side of the enclosure controlled by a thermostat to create the warm gradient; do not place heat under a deep-burrowing scorpion. A thermometer/hygrometer, abundant cross-ventilation, a secure escape-proof lid, a shallow water dish, and a UV/blacklight (optional, for nighttime viewing of natural fluorescence) complete the setup. No filtration or UVB lamp needed.
Diet
Insectivore/carnivore. Feed appropriately sized live prey such as crickets, dubia roaches, mealworms, and the occasional superworm. Adults eat roughly weekly; juveniles slightly more often. Remove uneaten prey within a day so it cannot harass the scorpion, especially during molts. Gut-load feeders well. A water dish or droplets provide hydration in this dry setup.
Behavior & temperament
Defensive and not for handling. When threatened it raises its claws and stings; the venom is generally mild (comparable to a bee or wasp sting for most people) but stings are painful and individual reactions vary, so handling is discouraged. It is a solitary, nocturnal ambush burrower that hides by day. Never house two together, as they readily cannibalize. Treat strictly as a look-don't-touch display animal.
Health
Hardy if kept hot, dry, and well-ventilated. The most common killers are excess humidity and poor ventilation, which cause fatal fungal infections (mycosis) in this desert species, plus impaction from inappropriate substrate. Molting is a vulnerable time; do not disturb or feed a pre-molt or freshly molted scorpion. Watch for dehydration; provide water without raising ambient humidity. Always anchor decor so it cannot fall and crush the animal.
Tips, DIY & hacks
Prioritize heat, dryness, and ventilation; humidity is the number-one cause of death. Use a deep, compactable substrate so the scorpion can dig a stable burrow. Do not handle, and never cohouse. Feed with long tongs and remove prey after feeding. Although native and legal to keep in much of the US, wild collection may be regulated in some states, so source captive-bred animals where possible.