An exceptionally flat, slow-growing African scorpion adapted to live in rock crevices, prized for its docile temperament and very mild venom. It is one of the longest and longest-lived scorpions kept in the hobby.
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One of the longest scorpions in the world; females reach roughly 16-21 cm (6-8 in) including the tail, with an extremely flattened body.
Lifespan
20–30 years
Social needs
solo
Native region
Africa
Origin
Old World
Climate
🏜️ Arid
Family
Hormuridae
Genus
Hadogenes
Part of the Scorpions
Scorpions are long-lived arachnids kept as hardy display invertebrates. Most are defensive, not for handling, and range from mild-venom desert species to potent old-world species suited only to experienced keepers.
From the minimum an animal needs to be kept humanely, up to the ideal setup. Bigger is almost always better — minimums are floors, not targets.
Photo coming soon
Minimum
Juvenile arid scorpion
5–10 gal (≈ 20 × 10 × 10 in)
Dry sand/clay substrate 2–4 in deep, a flat rock or piece of slate for a hide, a low-wattage heat source on one side for a gradient, and a small water dish refreshed weekly. Flat rock scorpions (Hadogenes spp.) are slow, long-lived rock-dwellers — stack flat slates with thin gaps rather than offering deep substrate.
Photo coming soon
Recommended
Adult arid enclosure
10–20 gal long, arid
Longer footprint over height; deeper substrate (4–6 in) so the animal can scrape a scrape-under or burrow. Warm end 30–32 °C, cool end ambient; humidity stays low with good ventilation.
Photo coming soon
Ideal
Naturalistic arid vivarium
20 gal long+ with sculpted rockwork
Larger arid vivarium with layered rock hides, a clay-bound sand substrate that holds tunnels, and a stable thermal gradient. Single-housed unless the species is communal.
Life & growth stages
How this animal changes through its life — each stage often has its own care, diet and space needs.
Photo coming soon
Egg
These invertebrates lay eggs — often in a guarded clutch, a silk sac (spiders), or a brood (carried by female isopods). The eggs are small and soft and develop without a true larval or pupal transformation.
Photo coming soon
Juvenile
Juveniles hatch as miniature versions of the adult and grow by molting their exoskeleton (or, in snails, by enlarging the shell). They gain size, segments, or leg pairs and gradually take on adult coloration with each molt.
Adult
Adults reach full size and reproductive maturity with the species' mature form and coloration. Many arachnids and myriapods continue to molt as adults, and sexes can differ in size or in specialized appendages.
Habitat & enclosure
House singly in a wide, shallow terrarium (a 10-20 gallon / ~40-75 L footprint suits an adult); floor space and vertical rock structure matter more than height. Provide a thick stack of flat slate or stone tiles, tightly arranged so the scorpion can wedge itself into narrow crevices the way it would in the wild. Keep it warm and dry: ambient 24-28 C (75-82 F) with a basking surface up to ~30 C, and low humidity (~40-50%) with a small water dish. This is an arid-rock specialist, not a burrower, so avoid deep damp substrate.
Substrate
A thin layer (2-4 cm) of dry, sandy substrate such as a sand/loam or excavator-clay mix is enough, since this species lives on and between rocks rather than burrowing. Keep it mostly dry, lightly dampening one corner near the water dish for a slight humidity gradient.
Equipment & setup
Low-wattage heat mat on the side or a low overhead heat source set to a thermostat to hold mid-to-high 20s C; no UVB required (a UV flashlight is fun for viewing their fluorescence but not needed for health). A secure, escape-proof lid, a hygrometer/thermometer, stacked slate or rock tiles, and a shallow water dish complete the setup.
Diet
An opportunistic ambush feeder. Offer appropriately sized gut-loaded crickets, roaches (e.g. dubia), and the occasional mealworm or locust. Adults eat slowly and infrequently — feed an adult every 1-2 weeks and remove uneaten prey. Always provide a shallow dish of clean water.
Behavior & temperament
One of the most docile and least defensive scorpions in the hobby. Its venom is very mild (comparable to a bee sting at most) and it relies on wedging into crevices and using its long, slender pincers rather than stinging. It can be among the more handleable scorpions, but handling still stresses the animal and risks a drop, so it is best observed rather than held. Largely nocturnal and secretive, spending the day pressed flat in a crevice.
Health
Hardy and exceptionally long-lived but extremely slow to mature (often 6-8 years or more to adulthood). The main husbandry pitfalls are excess humidity (causes mycosis/fungal issues and mites) and lack of secure crevices, which leaves the animal stressed and exposed. Watch for retained molts, sluggishness, or a wrinkled/discolored cuticle. Never house two together — they will fight.
Tips, DIY & hacks
Build the rock stack first and let the scorpion choose its crevice — resist rearranging it. Use thin slate pieces with tight gaps so the animal can press flat. Because it grows so slowly, buy from a reputable source and be patient; sub-adults are a long-term commitment. Keep it dry and well-ventilated to prevent mold and mites.
