A bold, diurnal poison dart frog patterned in metallic green and black that is among the hardiest dart frogs and a popular choice for planted vivariums. Captive-bred specimens are non-toxic because their alkaloid defenses come entirely from a wild diet.
ℹ️
Educational only. KinStation content is reviewed by licensed veterinarians but cannot replace an in-person exam. Always consult a licensed veterinarian or board-certified specialist for diagnosis, treatment, or any decision affecting your pet's health.
🩺 Need expert help with your green and black poison dart frog?
Connect with a specialist near you or ask a licensed vet — never substitute online guidance for hands-on care in an emergency.
Central America from southern Nicaragua through Costa Rica and Panama to northwestern Colombia; introduced (non-native)
Origin
New World
Climate
🌴 Tropical
Family
Dendrobatidae
Genus
Dendrobates
Part of the Poison Dart Frogs
Small, brilliantly colored diurnal frogs of the family Dendrobatidae from Central and South America. Captive-bred individuals are non-toxic because their alkaloid defenses come from wild ant- and mite-based diets. They thrive in planted, high-humidity bioactive vivaria and are display-only animals that should not be handled.
From the minimum an animal needs to be kept humanely, up to the ideal setup. Bigger is almost always better — minimums are floors, not targets.
Photo coming soon
Minimum
Bioactive vertical vivarium
18 × 18 × 24 in for a pair
Bioactive 18×18×24 with drainage, ABG mix, leaf litter, live broms and climbing wood. Mist for 75–85% humidity at 70–78 °F; springtail + melanogaster fruit fly culture essential. Auratus are bold ground-dwellers and one of the hardiest darts for beginners.
Photo coming soon
Recommended
Larger planted bioactive
24 × 18 × 24 in for a trio or small group
Wider vivarium accommodates 3–4 animals (1.2 or 1.3). Add brom cups, a shallow water feature, and dense planting. Low-output 5.0 UVB on one side encourages natural basking and vitamin D3 cycling.
Photo coming soon
Ideal
Planted bioactive 30+ gal
30+ gal display vivarium
Heavily planted 30+ gallon bioactive with a working waterfall, deep leaf litter, multiple brom cups, and a thriving isopod + springtail crew. Lets the group establish territories and breed naturally.
Life & growth stages
How this animal changes through its life — each stage often has its own care, diet and space needs.
Photo coming soon
Egg
Amphibian eggs are soft, jelly-coated spheres laid in or near water — in floating clutches, strings, or foam nests depending on the species. The dark embryo is visible within the clear gel as it develops.
Photo coming soon
Tadpole / Larva
The aquatic larva (a tadpole in frogs/toads, a gilled larva in salamanders and newts) breathes through gills and feeds and grows in water. Frog/toad tadpoles are limbless at first, then sprout hind then front legs as metamorphosis nears.
Photo coming soon
Juvenile (froglet / eft)
At metamorphosis the animal develops legs and lungs and typically leaves the water as a froglet or, in many newts, a terrestrial eft. It resembles a small adult but is not yet sexually mature and its coloration may still be changing.
Adult
Adults reach full size and breeding condition, with the species' mature skin coloration and pattern. Many amphibians return to water to breed and can show seasonal or sex-specific changes such as nuptial coloration or crests.
(c) Mabelin, some rights reserved (CC BY-NC) via iNaturalist — https://www.inaturalist.org/observations/294062973
Color & pattern variants
Natural variants occur in the wild; selectively bred (man-made) variants were developed in captivity.
Natural
representative
Costa Rican Green and Black
The classic bright-green-on-black locale with bold reticulation, widely captive-bred and beginner-friendly.
representative
Microspot
A locale with fine pale-green speckling on a darker ground, giving a 'pepper' appearance.
representative
Blue and Bronze / Turquoise
Locale forms in which the green is replaced by blue, turquoise, or bronze tones rather than classic green.
Habitat & enclosure
Keep in a tall, well-planted glass vivarium with a tight-fitting lid to hold humidity. A trio does well in an 18x18x18 in (45x45x45 cm) cube; allow more floor space for larger groups. Maintain temperatures of 72 to 80 F (22 to 27 C) by day with a slight night drop, and humidity of 80 to 100 percent. Avoid temperatures above 84 F (29 C), which are quickly fatal. Provide a false bottom or drainage layer, dense plantings, leaf litter, cork bark, and broad-leaved plants such as bromeliads for cover and egg sites.
Substrate
Use a bioactive substrate such as an ABG mix (tree fern, peat, sphagnum, charcoal, fir bark) over a drainage layer, topped with a thick layer of leaf litter. A bioactive setup with springtails and isopods keeps the enclosure clean and provides supplemental food.
Equipment & setup
Needs full-spectrum LED plant lighting for live plants; low-level UVB is optional and beneficial but not required if supplementation is good. No basking heat is needed in most homes. Use a fine-mist or fogging system or hand misting to maintain humidity, plus a drainage layer and a hygrometer/thermometer. A glass lid with limited ventilation balances humidity and air exchange.
Diet
Feed primarily flightless fruit flies (Drosophila melanogaster and hydei) dusted with a quality calcium plus vitamin D3 and vitamin A supplement at most feedings. Supplement with springtails, isopods, and other micro-feeders, especially for froglets. Feed adults every one to two days and juveniles daily. A self-sustaining springtail and isopod culture in the substrate provides continuous foraging.
Behavior & temperament
Diurnal, active, and relatively bold, often exploring in the open. Males call with a soft buzzing trill and can be territorial, so watch for aggression in tight quarters. Like all dart frogs, they are a display animal and should not be handled. Oils and salts on human skin harm their permeable skin, so handle only with clean, wet gloves when necessary.
Health
Generally hardy when humidity, temperature, and supplementation are correct. Common problems include metabolic bone disease from poor supplementation, short tongue syndrome from vitamin A deficiency, overheating, and chytrid or bacterial infections. Quarantine new animals and source captive-bred stock to reduce disease risk.
Tips, DIY & hacks
Start with captive-bred froglets from a single locale and avoid mixing morphs. A bioactive vivarium with a robust springtail population dramatically reduces maintenance. Provide film canisters, coco huts, or petri dishes under bromeliads as egg-laying sites if you intend to breed. Keep a backup feeder culture going at all times.
