A small, hardy old German 'owl' breed with a frilled breast and peak crest, kept for exhibition but noted for being a comparatively robust, good-feeding owl pigeon.
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From the minimum an animal needs to be kept humanely, up to the ideal setup. Bigger is almost always better — minimums are floors, not targets.
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Minimum
Sectioned loft (per pair)
≈ 3 sq ft loft + 6 sq ft fly pen / pair
Old German Owls are small, short-beaked toy pigeons that need careful feeding (small grain mixes) and predator-proof housing. A welfare minimum is 3 sq ft of loft plus 6 sq ft of covered fly per pair, with V-perches, individual nest cubicles, grit, calcium, deep water, and a shallow bath tin twice weekly.
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Recommended
Divided loft + flight pen
≈ 5 sq ft loft + 10 sq ft fly pen / pair
A divided loft of 5 sq ft per pair plus a 10+ sq ft covered fly per pair lets Old German Owls fly, court, and bathe without damaging the chest frill or beak. Short-beaked breeds often struggle to feed large squabs — keep a foster section of homing or Modena pairs available.
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Ideal
Walk-in show loft + flight
Walk-in loft + 18+ sq ft fly / pair
A walk-in fancier's loft with stock, breeding, foster, and conditioning sections plus an 18+ sq ft per pair covered aviary gives Old German Owls room to fly, court, and rear young in show condition. Skylights show off the frill and shell crest; sand floor and small-grain feeders protect the short beak.
Life & growth stages
How this animal changes through its life — each stage often has its own care, diet and space needs.
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Egg
Birds develop inside a hard-shelled egg incubated by the parent(s). Egg size, shell color, and clutch size vary by species; the embryo develops over days to weeks before hatching.
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Hatchling / Chick
Hatchlings are either altricial — naked, blind, and dependent on parents (typical of parrots and songbirds) — or precocial — downy, mobile, and self-feeding soon after hatching (typical of poultry and waterfowl). Down gives way to the first feathers.
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Juvenile / Fledgling
Fledglings grow in their juvenile plumage and begin to fly and feed themselves, though they may still beg from parents at first. Juvenile feathering is often duller than the adult and is replaced as the bird matures.
Adult
Adults attain full body size and mature plumage, and are capable of breeding. Many species show distinct adult coloration, and in sexually dimorphic birds males and females differ in plumage, size, or markings.
(c) Misha Zitser, some rights reserved (CC BY-NC) via iNaturalist — https://www.inaturalist.org/observations/285409360
Color & pattern variants
Natural variants occur in the wild; selectively bred (man-made) variants were developed in captivity.
House in a clean, dry, predator-proof loft with perches and floor or shelf nest boxes; clean legs mean less foot-feather maintenance than muffed breeds. Provide an aviary/flight for exercise — these birds fly reasonably well for an owl type. Standard loft hygiene and ventilation apply.
Diet
Feed a standard small-to-medium pigeon grain mix with grit, mineral grit and a pickstone. Unlike many short-faced owls, Old German Owls feed their own young well, so a normal balanced ration suits breeding pairs. Provide fresh water and extra calcium for laying hens.
Behavior & temperament
Active, alert and relatively hardy; a show/ornamental breed valued for being one of the more practical owl pigeons that reliably rears its own squabs. Generally calm and sociable in a mixed loft.
Health
Less extreme in conformation than many short-faced breeds, so fewer feeding problems, but the short beak still warrants smaller grain. Watch the peak crest and frill do not irritate the eyes. Routine pigeon health concerns apply: canker, coccidiosis, paramyxovirus and respiratory disease; clean legs are easier to keep mite-free.
Tips, DIY & hacks
A good 'starter' owl breed because it self-rears squabs — fewer foster pairs needed. Keep the loft dry and offer appropriately sized seed. Maintain colour and shield markings by selective pairing. Provide bathing water to keep the frill and plumage in show condition.