The Senegal bichir is an ancient, eel-like African fish with armored ganoid scales, a row of dorsal finlets, and primitive lungs that let it gulp air at the surface. Hardy, peaceful for its size, and full of prehistoric charm, it's one of the most beginner-friendly 'oddball' predators and a classic centerpiece for larger community tanks.
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Commonly 12-14 in (30-35 cm) in aquaria; up to ~16 in (40 cm)
Lifespan
10–15 years
Social needs
solo
Native region
Africa (Nile basin and West/Central Africa)
Origin
Old World
Climate
🌴 Tropical
Water type
💧 Freshwater
Family
Polypteridae
Genus
Polypterus
Part of the Freshwater oddballs
Unusual, conversation-piece freshwater fish — knifefish, elephantnoses, bichirs, butterflyfish and other novelties prized for strange shapes, behaviors or electric senses rather than schooling color.
From the minimum an animal needs to be kept humanely, up to the ideal setup. Bigger is almost always better — minimums are floors, not targets.
Photo coming soon
Minimum
Long lidded predator tank
75 gal / 280 L (≥4 ft, tight lid)
Polypterus senegalus reaches 30 cm and is a nocturnal eel-like predator. ESCAPE ARTIST — every opening must be sealed. Sand, caves, peaceful larger tankmates.
Photo coming soon
Recommended
Larger predator setup
90–125 gal / 340–470 L
Long footprint for cruising. Pair with fish too large to swallow (larger cichlids, datnoids). Surface breather — air gap above water mandatory.
Photo coming soon
Ideal
African biotope
150 gal+ / 570 L+ biotope
Long African biotope with deep sand, driftwood structure, dim lighting, and a small group of bichirs. Most natural nocturnal hunting visible.
Life & growth stages
How this animal changes through its life — each stage often has its own care, diet and space needs.
Photo coming soon
Egg
Fish eggs are small, translucent spheres, often laid in clutches on plants, substrate, or in a nest — or carried/brooded by a parent in livebearing and mouth-brooding species. A dark eye spot and the curled embryo become visible inside as development progresses.
Photo coming soon
Fry
Newly hatched fry are tiny and semi-transparent, frequently still carrying a yolk sac that fuels them before they feed freely. They lack full fin structure and adult coloration, staying near cover until they can swim and forage on their own.
Photo coming soon
Juvenile
Juveniles look like miniature adults but with developing fins and muted or different markings; many species shift pattern and color as they mature. Growth is rapid at this stage given clean water and steady feeding.
Adult
Adults show the species' full size, finnage, and mature coloration, and are sexually mature. Many fish develop sex-specific differences in size, color, or fin shape, which can intensify during breeding.
Color & pattern variants
Natural variants occur in the wild; selectively bred (man-made) variants were developed in captivity.
Provide at least a 75-90 gallon (~285-340 L) tank with a long footprint, as bichirs are bottom-dwellers that cruise the floor rather than the water column. Keep warm conditions of 76-82°F (24-28°C), pH 6.5-7.5, and soft to moderately hard water; they are tolerant of a range of parameters but appreciate stability and clean water.
Because they breathe air from a modified swim bladder, they need access to the surface and a small air gap above the water — but the tank must be tightly covered, as bichirs readily climb out through any gap. Gentle flow, plenty of caves and hiding spots, and dim lighting suit their crepuscular, secretive habits.
Substrate
Use soft sand or smooth fine gravel, since bichirs constantly slither and rest on the bottom and can scratch on coarse or sharp substrate. Sand also lets them search out sunken food and burrow gently.
Equipment & setup
Run good filtration with moderate, not turbulent, flow and a reliable heater for the tropical range. An absolutely escape-proof lid with every gap covered is essential, along with a small air space above the water for surface breathing. Subdued lighting and plenty of caves, driftwood, and PVC tubes give this shy fish security.
Diet
Carnivorous and slow, deliberate feeders that hunt largely by smell. Offer meaty sinking foods — carnivore pellets, earthworms, bloodworms, shrimp, mussel, and chunks of fish or krill. Feed at lights-out or target-feed near the bottom so faster tankmates don't steal everything, and avoid overfeeding this sedentary fish.
Behavior & temperament
Peaceful toward fish too large to swallow but a confirmed predator of anything that fits in its mouth. Compatible with robust medium-to-large tankmates such as larger cichlids, silver dollars, larger barbs, and other bichirs of similar size. Generally tolerant of its own kind, so a small group can be kept in a large tank; it can be slow at feeding time, so avoid aggressive food-competitors.
Health
Very hardy but can suffer from ich, bacterial infections, and bloat from overfeeding. Internal parasites are sometimes present in wild-caught stock, so deworming and quarantine are wise. The biggest real-world risk is escape — a determined bichir will exploit any opening — followed by injury from jumping or squeezing through filter intakes.
Tips, DIY & hacks
Seal every opening — around filters, lids, and cord cutouts — because bichirs are notorious escape artists. Feed after lights-out and target-feed to ensure this slow hunter gets its share. Wild-caught individuals benefit from a quarantine and deworming period before joining the display.
