The blood parrot is a man-made intergeneric cichlid hybrid, most commonly a Midas cichlid (Amphilophus citrinellus) crossed with a Vieja/Paraneetroplus-type 'redhead' species, first developed in Taiwan around the 1980s. It is prized for its rounded body and beak-like mouth, and is a hardy, personable centerpiece fish, though its deformed mouth and (in dyed/tattooed forms) the way it is produced draw welfare debate. The exact parental formula remains a proprietary trade secret, so the cross notation is approximate.
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Aquarium-developed hybrid (originated in Taiwan); parent species from Central America
Origin
New World
Climate
🌴 Tropical
Water type
💧 Freshwater
Family
Cichlidae
Genus
Amphilophus
Part of the Cichlids
Cichlids are a large, behaviorally complex family of freshwater fish prized for color, intelligence, and elaborate parental care. They range from peaceful dwarfs to highly territorial Rift Lake and Central American species, and most demand stable water chemistry and thoughtful tankmate selection.
From the minimum an animal needs to be kept humanely, up to the ideal setup. Bigger is almost always better — minimums are floors, not targets.
Photo coming soon
Minimum
Single adult tank
55 gal / 208 L long
Blood parrots are hybrids reaching 8–10 in. A 55-gallon long is the practical minimum for a single adult, with strong filtration (heavy waste), smooth décor (they spook into things), and warm 25–28 °C water.
Photo coming soon
Recommended
Pair or trio
75 gal / 284 L long
75-gal long for a bonded pair or carefully introduced trio, with multiple caves, large open swim space, sand substrate, and strong over-filtration. Their mouth deformity means slow-sinking food works best.
Photo coming soon
Ideal
Community display
125 gal+ / 473 L+ community
125-gallon+ display with a small group plus compatible large peaceful tankmates (severums, silver dollars). More space defuses the territorial squabbling that blood parrots are prone to.
Life & growth stages
How this animal changes through its life — each stage often has its own care, diet and space needs.
Photo coming soon
Egg
Fish eggs are small, translucent spheres, often laid in clutches on plants, substrate, or in a nest — or carried/brooded by a parent in livebearing and mouth-brooding species. A dark eye spot and the curled embryo become visible inside as development progresses.
Photo coming soon
Fry
Newly hatched fry are tiny and semi-transparent, frequently still carrying a yolk sac that fuels them before they feed freely. They lack full fin structure and adult coloration, staying near cover until they can swim and forage on their own.
Photo coming soon
Juvenile
Juveniles look like miniature adults but with developing fins and muted or different markings; many species shift pattern and color as they mature. Growth is rapid at this stage given clean water and steady feeding.
Adult
Adults show the species' full size, finnage, and mature coloration, and are sexually mature. Many fish develop sex-specific differences in size, color, or fin shape, which can intensify during breeding.
Color & pattern variants
Natural variants occur in the wild; selectively bred (man-made) variants were developed in captivity.
Selectively bred (man-made)
representative
King Kong parrot
A larger, deeper-bodied selectively bred line with intense red-orange coloration.
representative
Dyed/jellybean (purple, blue, etc.)
Artificially injected or dye-fed fish in unnatural colors; widely condemned on welfare grounds and best avoided.
Habitat & enclosure
House one in a 30+ gallon tank, or 55+ gallons for a small group, scaling up with numbers and tankmates. Provide open swimming space plus caves, driftwood, and rockwork for security, as these fish are timid despite their size. Keep temperatures at 76-82 F (24-28 C), pH 6.5-7.5, and moderate hardness. Strong filtration is essential because cichlids are messy, high-waste feeders.
Substrate
Use fine sand or smooth rounded gravel; these fish like to sift and dig, especially when establishing territories. Smooth substrate prevents barbel and mouth abrasion. Anchor decor and plants well since they rearrange the layout.
Equipment & setup
A robust canister or oversized hang-on-back filter rated above the tank volume, a reliable heater, and gentle-to-moderate flow. A secure lid prevents jumping. Live or sturdy artificial plants and plenty of caves complete the setup.
Diet
Omnivorous. Feed a quality cichlid pellet sized for their small mouths, supplemented with frozen bloodworms, brine shrimp, and the occasional blanched vegetable. Color-enhancing foods with natural carotenoids (astaxanthin/spirulina) help maintain the orange-red hue. Their malformed mouths make capturing food awkward, so sinking foods and patient feeding help.
Behavior & temperament
Generally peaceful for a cichlid and often kept communally, but individuals can be territorial at spawning time. They are shy when first introduced and appreciate dither fish and cover. Highly interactive and 'beggy' once settled, often recognizing their keeper. Not aggressive enough to keep with true Central American aggressors, but can bully smaller tankmates.
Health
Prone to swim-bladder issues and the buoyancy problems common to deformed, rounded-body hybrids. Avoid dyed (juice/jellybean) and tattooed specimens, which suffer high mortality and infection from the injection process. Watch for HITH (hole-in-the-head) tied to poor water quality and diet. The notched mouth can complicate feeding and make them targets of fin-nipping. Being a hybrid, blood parrots are often partially or fully infertile, especially the males.
Tips, DIY & hacks
Buy only naturally colored stock and refuse dyed/tattooed fish to discourage the trade. Keep them in a small group or with calm tankmates (silver dollars, larger tetras, plecos) to reduce shyness. Because the mouth cannot fully close, choose foods they can actually swallow and watch that tankmates do not outcompete them at feeding.
