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Sebae Anemone

Heteractis crispa · also called Leathery Sea Anemone, Long Tentacle Anemone (trade), Purple Tip Anemone

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Sebae Anemone

Heteractis crispa is a large host anemone with long, tapering, often purple-tipped tentacles on a leathery column. Naturally hosts several clownfish species, but it is an advanced animal — wild-collected specimens frequently arrive bleached and struggle to recover.

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Quick facts

SizeOral disc 6-12 in (15-30 cm) across; tentacles up to several inches long
Lifespan20–80 years
Social needssolo
Native regionIndo-Pacific and Red Sea reefs
OriginOld World
Climate🌴 Tropical
Water type🌊 Marine
FamilyStichodactylidae
GenusHeteractis

Part of the Sea Anemones

Stinging, sessile cnidarians ranging from clownfish-hosting giants to nano-sized carpet species. Many are demanding, mobile, and can sting corals or be drawn into pumps — careful placement and rock-stable water are essential.

Bubble tip anemoneCarpet anemoneCondy anemoneLong tentacle anemoneMagnificent anemoneMini Maxi AnemoneRock flower anemone

Habitat & space requirements

From the minimum an animal needs to be kept humanely, up to the ideal setup. Bigger is almost always better — minimums are floors, not targets.

Photo coming soon
Minimum

Established 30-gal reef

30+ gal cycled 6+ mo / SG 1.025 / Alk 8-9 / NO3 < 10

Anemones need ESTABLISHED reefs — never new tanks. Strong reef-spectrum light, moderate flow. They WANDER — secure intake guards (anemone-rated covers on powerheads). Sebae (Heteractis crispa) hosts clownfish but is HARDER than BTA — many wild specimens are dyed; insist on aquacultured.

Photo coming soon
Recommended

Mature 75-gal reef

75+ gal mature reef / strong light / chaotic flow

Mature reef with stable parameters + strong reef-spectrum LED + chaotic flow. Will host compatible captive-bred clownfish (Bubble Tip = Amphiprion ocellaris/percula; Carpet/Magnificent/Sebae host larger clowns).

Photo coming soon
Ideal

Show reef + bonded clownfish pair

100+ gal show reef + pair of clownfish

Mature 100+ gal show reef with a bonded pair of CAPTIVE-BRED clownfish hosting. Wild-caught anemones bleach easily; insist on aquacultured/maricultured stock. Sebae (Heteractis crispa) hosts clownfish but is HARDER than BTA — many wild specimens are dyed; insist on aquacultured.

Life & growth stages

How this animal changes through its life — each stage often has its own care, diet and space needs.

Photo coming soon
Planula larva

Corals begin as a free-swimming planula larva released into the water column after spawning or brooding. The tiny, ciliated larva drifts and swims until it finds suitable hard substrate to settle on.

Photo coming soon
Single polyp

Once settled, the larva metamorphoses into a single founding polyp that secretes a calcium-carbonate (or proteinaceous) base and extends a ring of tentacles to feed. Reef-building corals begin laying down skeleton at this stage.

Mature colony stage
Mature colony

The founding polyp buds asexually into a colony of many genetically identical polyps, building the species' characteristic growth form — branching, plating, encrusting, or massive. A mature colony can reproduce and contributes to reef structure.

Color & pattern variants

Natural variants occur in the wild; selectively bred (man-made) variants were developed in captivity.

Natural
Purple Tiprepresentative

Purple Tip

Tan to brown leathery column with long tentacles tipped in purple or magenta — the classic healthy, fully pigmented color form.

Bleached White (trade)representative

Bleached White (trade)

Stark white specimens that have expelled their zooxanthellae. Often mis-sold as a desirable 'white sebae' but are stressed and require feeding to survive and re-color; not recommended for beginners.

Purple Tip Sebaerepresentative

Purple Tip Sebae

CommonAdvanced

The classic and most widely traded Sebae form — a pale beige, tan, or whitish leathery column with long flowing tentacles capped in **magenta-to-purple tips**. This is the signature look that makes *Heteractis crispa* recognizable on the trade, and the magenta/purple tip is the standard natural color expression of a healthy, photosynthetic specimen.

Tip: Give it deep sand or a crevice it can bury its leathery foot into, with strong lighting and moderate, indirect flow; never aim a powerhead directly at it. Spot-feed small meaty foods. Note that *H. crispa* is notoriously difficult to keep long-term, with high import mortality — buy a richly colored animal, not a bleached white one.

Yellow Tip Sebaerepresentative

Yellow Tip Sebae

UncommonAdvanced

A Sebae whose tentacle tips read **yellowish-green to yellow** rather than the usual magenta, often over a tan or greenish body and oral disk. Yellow-green tips are a documented natural color form of *Heteractis crispa* alongside the standard purple-tip form.

Tip: Strong lighting (it relies heavily on its zooxanthellae) plus regular spot-feeding of small meaty foods helps it hold color after import. **Buyer beware:** a solid-yellow body or a stark-white animal with bright colored tips is very often dyed or bleached — these are not natural and are far more likely to die. Choose a naturally tan/green specimen showing genuine yellow-green tips.

Colored Blue Tip Sebaerepresentative

Colored Blue Tip Sebae

UncommonAdvanced

A higher-grade import selected for richer overall body color (green, brown, creamy, or purple) finished with **blue-tipped tentacles**. The blue tips read strongly under actinic/blue-heavy lighting.

Tip: Place under blue-rich LED or T5 to show the tip color, but acclimate light slowly over weeks so a freshly imported animal doesn't bleach. As with all *H. crispa*, give it deep substrate to anchor in, strong lighting, and regular feeding; survival rates are low, so prioritize a healthy, fully colored specimen.

Purple Sebaerepresentative

Purple Sebae

UncommonAdvanced

A specimen where the **column and oral disk themselves carry a lavender-to-violet wash**, not just the tentacle tips. One of the more desirable color expressions of the species, since deeper body pigment indicates a healthy, well-symbionted animal.

Tip: Because deeper body pigment depends on a healthy symbiont population, give it intense, stable lighting and avoid moving it once it has settled and anchored. Feed regularly and acclimate slowly; like all *H. crispa* it is difficult to keep long-term.

Habitat & enclosure

Requires a **large, very mature reef tank, ideally 50+ gal (190+ L)** with abundant rock and open swimming/expansion space. Do NOT add to a tank under ~6-12 months old. Parameters must be rock-stable: temperature **76-80 F (24-27 C)**, salinity **1.025-1.026 SG**, pH **8.1-8.4**, alkalinity **8-9 dKH**, calcium **420-440 ppm**, magnesium **~1300 ppm**, nitrate/phosphate low. It anchors its foot deep in rockwork, often burying the column with the disc exposed.

Substrate

Provide a **deep, stable rock structure** for the foot to anchor into, ideally over a sand bed so it can choose a rock crevice. It buries its leathery column and exposes the disc. Avoid loose rock that could shift and crush or dislodge it.

Equipment & setup

**Strong reef lighting (PAR ~150-250+)** and **moderate, turbulent flow** that does not blast the disc. Heater, reliable salt mix, and a strong protein skimmer for clean water are essential. **Critically, guard all pump/powerhead intakes and overflows** with foam/screens — wandering anemones drawn into pumps is a leading cause of death and tank disasters.

Diet

**Photosynthetic** via zooxanthellae, but a host anemone needs regular feeding to stay healthy — offer chunks of meaty seafood (mysis, silversides, raw shrimp/fish) every 3-7 days, sized to the mouth. A bleached (white) specimen has lost its algae and depends almost entirely on feeding until it re-colors; do not buy bright-white 'sebae' expecting them to be hardy.

Behavior & temperament

Sessile but **mobile** — it will walk on its foot to find preferred light/flow and can wander into powerheads and overflows (screen intakes). Tentacles carry a **potent sting** that can kill or damage nearby corals it touches, so leave a wide buffer. It can also sting the aquarist; handle minimally and wash hands. Hosts clownfish such as Clark's, pink skunk, and others, though tank-bred clowns may ignore it.

Health

Notoriously difficult: most are wild-collected, and bleached, damaged, or starved animals are common in the trade, leading to high losses. A healthy anemone is firmly attached, has inflated tentacles, and a closed/retentive mouth. **Warning signs:** a gaping or 'vomiting' mouth, deflating, detaching, or releasing stringy tissue — often a precursor to death, at which point it must be removed before it crashes water quality. Buy only colored, firmly attached, feeding specimens.

Tips, DIY & hacks

This is not a beginner anemone; choose a tank-raised or well-established colored specimen over a cheap bleached one. Acclimate slowly (drip), and let it choose its own spot rather than gluing it. Feed regularly, keep parameters laser-stable, and never house with corals it can reach. If it detaches and goes mobile, find and fix the cause (light/flow) and protect pump intakes immediately. Not CITES-listed, but some source countries regulate or limit anemone export.

Sources

  1. Sebae Anemone (Heteractis crispa) Care - LiveAquaria (care guide)
  2. Heteractis crispa - WoRMS / clownfish host anemones (reference)
  3. Wikipedia: Sebae Anemone (wiki)