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Long tentacle anemone

Macrodactyla doreensis · also called LTA, Corkscrew anemone, Corkscrew tentacle anemone, Red base anemone, Sand anemone

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Long tentacle anemone

The long tentacle anemone has flowing, often slightly twisted (corkscrew) tentacles and a distinctive purple, orange, or red column foot, which it buries in deep sand. Unlike rock-anchoring host anemones, it is a sand dweller that needs a deep substrate bed to seat its foot, making aquascaping for it different. It hosts several clownfish species and is moderately demanding, requiring strong light, pristine stable water, and a tank designed around its sand-burrowing habit.

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Quick facts

SizeOral disc commonly 6-12 in (15-30 cm) across when expanded; long flowing tentacles.
Lifespan10–80 years
Social needssolo
Native regionIndo-Pacific
OriginOld World
Climate🌴 Tropical
Water type🌊 Marine
FamilyActiniidae
GenusMacrodactyla

Part of the Sea Anemones

Stinging, sessile cnidarians ranging from clownfish-hosting giants to nano-sized carpet species. Many are demanding, mobile, and can sting corals or be drawn into pumps — careful placement and rock-stable water are essential.

Bubble tip anemoneCarpet anemoneCondy anemoneMagnificent anemoneMini Maxi AnemoneRock flower anemoneSebae Anemone

Habitat & space requirements

From the minimum an animal needs to be kept humanely, up to the ideal setup. Bigger is almost always better — minimums are floors, not targets.

Photo coming soon
Minimum

Established 30-gal reef

30+ gal cycled 6+ mo / SG 1.025 / Alk 8-9 / NO3 < 10

Anemones need ESTABLISHED reefs — never new tanks. Strong reef-spectrum light, moderate flow. They WANDER — secure intake guards (anemone-rated covers on powerheads). Long Tentacle Anemone (Macrodactyla doreensis) hosts clownfish; needs deep sand bed for foot.

Photo coming soon
Recommended

Mature 75-gal reef

75+ gal mature reef / strong light / chaotic flow

Mature reef with stable parameters + strong reef-spectrum LED + chaotic flow. Will host compatible captive-bred clownfish (Bubble Tip = Amphiprion ocellaris/percula; Carpet/Magnificent/Sebae host larger clowns).

Photo coming soon
Ideal

Show reef + bonded clownfish pair

100+ gal show reef + pair of clownfish

Mature 100+ gal show reef with a bonded pair of CAPTIVE-BRED clownfish hosting. Wild-caught anemones bleach easily; insist on aquacultured/maricultured stock. Long Tentacle Anemone (Macrodactyla doreensis) hosts clownfish; needs deep sand bed for foot.

Life & growth stages

How this animal changes through its life — each stage often has its own care, diet and space needs.

Photo coming soon
Planula larva

Corals begin as a free-swimming planula larva released into the water column after spawning or brooding. The tiny, ciliated larva drifts and swims until it finds suitable hard substrate to settle on.

Photo coming soon
Single polyp

Once settled, the larva metamorphoses into a single founding polyp that secretes a calcium-carbonate (or proteinaceous) base and extends a ring of tentacles to feed. Reef-building corals begin laying down skeleton at this stage.

Mature colony stage
Mature colony

The founding polyp buds asexually into a colony of many genetically identical polyps, building the species' characteristic growth form — branching, plating, encrusting, or massive. A mature colony can reproduce and contributes to reef structure.

Color & pattern variants

Natural variants occur in the wild; selectively bred (man-made) variants were developed in captivity.

Natural
Purple/red baserepresentative

Purple/red base

The classic wild form with green or tan tentacles over a vivid purple, orange, or red column; the column color is a hallmark of the species.

Green tentacle formrepresentative

Green tentacle form

Specimens with bright green oral disc and tentacles, often with the characteristic colored base.

Pink/Rose Long Tentacle Anemonerepresentative

Pink/Rose Long Tentacle Anemone

UncommonAdvanced

Macrodactyla doreensis with pink-to-rose tentacles and the species' signature warty/spotted column. A more colorful wild-collected form.

Tip: Provide several inches of deep sand bed — LTAs anchor their foot deep in substrate and will wander and die if forced onto bare rock.

Green Long Tentacle Anemonerepresentative

Green Long Tentacle Anemone

CommonIntermediate

A green-tentacle color form, tentacles ranging from olive to brighter grassy green over the usual reddish base — one of the more frequently available colored variants.

Tip: Position on the sand bed under stable moderate-to-high light; the green pigment is tied to its zooxanthellae, so consistent light keeps the color richer. Bury the column foot and keep flow gentle.

Purple-Base / Maroon LTArepresentative

Purple-Base / Maroon LTA

RareAdvanced

A striking form with a deep purple or maroon oral disc and column base. One of the more prized natural color morphs.

Tip: Only buy a specimen with an intact, undamaged foot and good attachment — a torn foot from rough collection almost always leads to death.

Orange-Tip LTArepresentative

Orange-Tip LTA

RareAdvanced

Tentacles tipped or shaded with orange over a tan or green body. Color tips are a desirable but uncommon trait.

Tip: Host this one with a compatible clownfish (Clarkii or maroon) — clowns help keep the tentacles clean and stimulate feeding, improving long-term survival.

Standard Tan/Brown LTArepresentative

Standard Tan/Brown LTA

CommonAdvanced

The baseline tan-brown wild form with long flowing tentacles and a warty, often red-orange lower column. Hardiest color but still a demanding animal.

Tip: Run a mature, stable tank (6+ months) with pristine parameters before adding any LTA — they crash quickly and can nuke a tank when they die.

Rainbow Long Tentacle Anemonerepresentative

Rainbow Long Tentacle Anemone

RareIntermediate

A premium wild color morph with a multi-colored oral disc blending greens, purples, pinks and oranges, and tentacles that can show contrasting tips. The combination of disc coloration and the orange foot drives the demand.

Tip: Light it under moderate PAR (around 100-150) so its zooxanthellae stay colorful without bleaching, and keep it in a deep sand bed away from high-flow returns.

Purple-Base / Pink Foot Long Tentacle Anemonerepresentative

Purple-Base / Pink Foot Long Tentacle Anemone

UncommonIntermediate

A form prized for an intensely pink-to-magenta column (foot) that contrasts with a greenish disc; hobbyists often value the foot color over the tentacles. The vivid column is visible as it threads down into the sand and rock.

Tip: Avoid bare-bottom tanks entirely, this anemone needs sand to bury and protect that delicate column; place it where the foot can reach down to a hard surface beneath several inches of sand.

Purple Long Tentacle Anemonerepresentative

Purple Long Tentacle Anemone

UncommonIntermediate

The most sought-after color form: long, tapering tentacles flushed purple to lavender rising from the classic red-to-orange column base, often with pale striping across the oral disc.

Tip: Give it 4+ inches of fine sand or mud to bury its column foot in; it anchors in the substrate, not the rock, so do not place it on bare bottom or it will wander. Provide moderate-to-high light and low-to-moderate flow.

Neon Purple Long Tentacle Anemonerepresentative

Neon Purple Long Tentacle Anemone

RareIntermediate

A brighter, more saturated grade of the purple form, with vivid neon-violet to magenta tentacles over the red base — the high end of the purple color spectrum for this species.

Tip: Bury the column foot in a deep, fine sand bed and give it stable moderate-to-high light (roughly 200-300 PAR) — this is a shallow-water anemone that relies heavily on its zooxanthellae, so steady, adequate light keeps both the animal and its color healthy. Keep flow low to moderate so the tentacles can extend.

Red Base Long Tentacle Anemonerepresentative

Red Base Long Tentacle Anemone

CommonIntermediate

The standard wild form and the source of the species' nicknames: a vivid red-to-orange column (the 'red base' or 'red foot') topped with tan, brown or pale green wavy tentacles, frequently striped with white on the disc.

Tip: Bury the bright red column entirely in deep (4-inch-plus) sand — that red foot is the part that must stay protected; only the tentacle crown and disc should sit at the surface. Moderate-to-high light and gentle flow suit it best.

Red Long Tentacle Anemonerepresentative

Red Long Tentacle Anemone

UncommonIntermediate

A more fully red-pigmented specimen where the tentacles themselves are red to pink, not just the base — described by vendors as 'red or pink with orange to red colored feet.'

Tip: Keep the red foot buried in deep sand and provide moderate-to-high light to support its zooxanthellae; supplement with small meaty foods (mysis, chopped silverside) once or twice a week, since these anemones are active feeders.

Ultra Green Long Tentacle Anemonerepresentative

Ultra Green Long Tentacle Anemone

UncommonIntermediate

The premium grade of the green form: noticeably brighter, more vivid green tentacles that sway prominently, marketed as the bold high-color version rather than the muted olive specimens.

Tip: Keep flow low-to-moderate and as laminar as possible so the long green tentacles can extend and sway fully; turbulent high flow makes this species retract and lose its display value. Bury the foot in deep sand under moderate-to-high light.

Ultra Long Tentacle Anemone (TSA)representative

Ultra Long Tentacle Anemone (TSA)

UncommonIntermediate

A vendor 'ultra' grade covering hand-picked high-color specimens — the standout colored individuals (purple, green or mixed) pulled from incoming wild stock rather than a single fixed color.

Tip: Acclimate slowly and place on an established, mature sand bed; this species is sensitive to sudden water-quality swings, so avoid adding it to a new or unstable system. Bury the column foot and give it moderate-to-high light with gentle flow.

Habitat & enclosure

Unlike most host anemones, the LTA buries its column in a deep sandbed (4+ in / 10+ cm) and anchors its foot to buried rock or the tank bottom, with only the oral disc and tentacles exposed. Provide an open low zone with deep sand near rock, moderate flow, and bright reef lighting around 120-220 PAR. Keep it in mature, stable water: SG ~1.025, 76-80°F, pH 8.1-8.4, with very low nitrate and phosphate and no rapid parameter swings. It is sensitive to poor water quality and unstable conditions.

Substrate

A true sand-dwelling anemone: it needs a deep sandbed to bury its column and seat its foot on the bottom or on buried rock. Do not place it on bare rock in high flow, as it cannot anchor properly and will be stressed. Aquascape with an open sand area at least as deep as the foot is long.

Equipment & setup

Requires strong reef lighting with adequate PAR, moderate flow from powerheads (avoid direct blasting), a protein skimmer, and a mature, stable system. Provide a deep sandbed for burrowing, and guard all pump and overflow intakes with foam or mesh to protect a wandering anemone.

Diet

Photosynthetic via symbiotic zooxanthellae, supplying much of its energy under good light. Target-feed meaty foods every few days to weekly: mysis, chopped shrimp, krill, silversides, or small pieces of fish placed directly on the tentacles. Newly acquired or stressed specimens benefit from regular feeding to rebuild reserves.

Behavior & temperament

A solitary organism that rarely splits in captivity compared to bubble tips. It can deliver a potent sting to corals and other anemones, so give it a clear zone of sand and rock. It hosts clownfish including Clark's, pink skunk, and tomato clowns, though tank-bred clowns may take time to accept it. It can slowly reposition by re-burrowing its foot; provide a stable, undisturbed sand area to encourage it to settle.

Health

A wandering or detached foot, a deflated body, or a wide-gaping mouth signals stress from light, flow, or water-quality problems. A disintegrating column, expelled and unretracting guts, or a foul smell indicate a dying anemone to remove at once. Bleaching (pale/white) reflects zooxanthellae loss from light shock; shrinking, failing to expand, and refusing food are early decline signs. Screen pump intakes, as a roaming LTA can be drawn in.

Tips, DIY & hacks

Choose a specimen with a firm, intact foot, good tentacle turgor, and a closed mouth; avoid gaping, deflated, or detaching animals. Aquascape with deep sand before adding it so it can burrow naturally, and acclimate slowly to your lighting. Never rip the foot from substrate—coax it free gently with warm water.

Sources

  1. Macrodactyla doreensis — World Register of Marine Species (WoRMS) (reference)
  2. Long Tentacle Anemone (Macrodactyla doreensis) Care Guide (hobby guide)
  3. Wikipedia: Long tentacle anemone (wiki)