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Zoanthids

Zoanthus sp. · also called Zoas, Zoa, Button polyps, Sea mats, Palys (for Palythoa)

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Zoanthids

Zoanthids are colonial polyps famous for their kaleidoscopic color morphs, which drive an entire naming-and-collecting hobby within the reef trade. They are hardy, fast-spreading beginner corals — but many contain palytoxin, one of the most potent natural toxins, so they must be handled with care.

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Quick facts

SizeSmall colonial polyps, typically 5-15 mm across, forming spreading mats of dozens to hundreds of polyps.
Lifespan5–50 years
Social needssolo
Native regionIndo-Pacific
OriginOld World
Climate🌴 Tropical
Water type🌊 Marine
FamilyZoanthidae
GenusZoanthus

Part of the Soft Corals

Soft corals such as leathers, colt, cloves, Anthelia, gorgonians and Sympodium. Non-skeletal octocorals with flexible, often swaying colonies and eight-tentacled polyps; mostly hardy, beginner-friendly reef corals driven by photosynthesis and tolerant of a wide range of light, flow and nutrients.

Anthelia (Waving Hand Polyps)Cabbage Leather CoralClove PolypsColt CoralDevil's Hand LeatherFinger leather coralGorgonian Sea FanGreen star polypsKenya tree coralMushroom coralPulsing xeniaSympodium (Blue Clove Polyps)Toadstool leather coral

Habitat & space requirements

From the minimum an animal needs to be kept humanely, up to the ideal setup. Bigger is almost always better — minimums are floors, not targets.

Photo coming soon
Minimum

Stable nano reef

10+ gal / Alk 8-9 / NO3 5-15 ppm

Zoanthids/palys are forgiving — low-medium light and flow are fine. Place mid-low. ⚠ Palytoxin: ALWAYS wear gloves + eye protection when fragging; never boil rock with palys. Generic zoanthids entry — same care as zoanthid-coral.

Photo coming soon
Recommended

Established 30-gal reef

30+ gal / stable nutrients

Established reef with moderate light + flow. Predators (sundials, nudibranchs) target zoas — inspect new frags.

Photo coming soon
Ideal

Mature mixed reef + dedicated zoa garden

75+ gal / display rock with named morphs

Mature reef where named zoa morphs can colour up and grow into garden patches. Generic zoanthids entry — same care as zoanthid-coral.

Life & growth stages

How this animal changes through its life — each stage often has its own care, diet and space needs.

Photo coming soon
Planula larva

Corals begin as a free-swimming planula larva released into the water column after spawning or brooding. The tiny, ciliated larva drifts and swims until it finds suitable hard substrate to settle on.

Photo coming soon
Single polyp

Once settled, the larva metamorphoses into a single founding polyp that secretes a calcium-carbonate (or proteinaceous) base and extends a ring of tentacles to feed. Reef-building corals begin laying down skeleton at this stage.

Mature colony stage
Mature colony

The founding polyp buds asexually into a colony of many genetically identical polyps, building the species' characteristic growth form — branching, plating, encrusting, or massive. A mature colony can reproduce and contributes to reef structure.

Color & pattern variants

Natural variants occur in the wild; selectively bred (man-made) variants were developed in captivity.

Natural
Fruit Loopsrepresentative

Fruit Loops

CommonBeginner

Bright orange tentacles over a ring of purple and a large ring of green on the face, looking like the cereal it's named for. A bold, high-contrast crowd favorite.

Tip: Place on mid rockwork under moderate light (PAR ~100-250) and moderate flow to keep the rings vivid; it is a reliable, fast spreader for newer reefers.

Utter Chaosrepresentative

Utter Chaos

CommonBeginner

A purple base splattered and swirled with yellow-green and accented by bright orange skirts. The disorganized multicolor look is exactly what gives it the name.

Tip: Very adaptable; place on mid rockwork under moderate light (PAR ~100-250) and moderate flow. Tends to spread quickly and can cover a plug, so give it room to grow.

Brown/wild button polypsrepresentative

Brown/wild button polyps

Plain brown or green wild-collected zoanthids, very hardy and inexpensive starter colonies.

Eagle Eyerepresentative

Eagle Eye

CommonBeginner

An orange-to-red body with a dark purple/blue central 'eye' and a green-to-yellow skirt, the contrasting dark pupil giving it the eagle-eye look. A foundational hobby morph.

Tip: Hardy and beginner-friendly; place low-to-mid under moderate light and flow. A fast spreader that can shade neighbors, so consider isolating it on its own rock 'island.'

Fire & Icerepresentative

Fire & Ice

CommonBeginner

Popular zoa with icy blue/teal centers ('ice') ringed by orange-red skirts ('fire'). A staple in beginner zoa gardens.

Tip: Color holds best at moderate PAR (~75–125); too much light pushes it brown, too little fades the fiery skirt.

Rastarepresentative

Rasta

CommonBeginner

A classic morph with a yellow-green skirt, orange-red body ring, and a bright yellow center, evoking the red/gold/green Rastafarian palette. One of the most recognizable named zoas in the hobby.

Tip: Place on low-to-mid rockwork under moderate light (PAR ~100-250) and moderate flow; Rastas can be a slower grower and color up best with stable, moderate light rather than blasting PAR.

People Eaterrepresentative

People Eater

RareIntermediate

A sought-after Palythoa/zoa with a purple mouth, green ring, and orange skirt; one of the most recognizable named zoas.

Tip: As a Paly, it packs extra-potent palytoxin — wear gloves and eye protection when fragging, and never handle dry.

Sunny D / Sunny Delightrepresentative

Sunny D / Sunny Delight

CommonBeginner

Bright solid orange zoa polyps that resemble little suns; fast-growing and inexpensive.

Tip: Give it good light to keep the orange saturated; it polyps up fast, making it ideal for filling a frag rack.

Gobstopper / Bam Bam Orangerepresentative

Gobstopper / Bam Bam Orange

UncommonIntermediate

Premium zoas — Gobstoppers show candy-like multicolor rings; Bam Bam Orange is a pink-mouth, orange-skirt collector morph.

Tip: These high-end morphs hold color best with stable nutrients (not ultra-low); siphon any film/cyano off the polyps so they stay open.

Magician / Wolverinerepresentative

Magician / Wolverine

RareIntermediate

Designer-grade zoas with vivid purple/blue and orange contrast, commanding high per-polyp prices.

Tip: Frag onto its own plug and grow out slowly under moderate blue light; the intense purple fades if the colony is shaded by faster corals.

Nuclear Green / Radioactive Dragon Eyerepresentative

Nuclear Green / Radioactive Dragon Eye

CommonBeginner

Electric neon-green skirt with an orange/red center; one of the most ubiquitous and bulletproof named zoas.

Tip: Extremely beginner-friendly and fast-spreading — give moderate light and watch it carpet the rock; ideal first zoa.

Rainbow Incineratorrepresentative

Rainbow Incinerator

RareBeginner

A famous Zoanthus morph with a fiery orange-to-red center, a deep purple/violet ring, and a bright green skirt, named for its blazing rainbow color spread.

Tip: Hardy under low-to-moderate light and gentle flow; place low-to-mid and it colors up without high PAR. Always wear gloves and eye protection when handling zoas/palys.

Sunny Drepresentative

Sunny D

UncommonBeginner

A metallic orange face with a yellow-and-gold highlighted skirt and a bright green mouth, named for the orange-drink color. Cheerful, saturated orange tones.

Tip: Moderate light brings out the metallic orange face; place mid-tank with moderate flow. Avoid heavy shading, which dulls the orange.

WWC Bowsersrepresentative

WWC Bowsers

RareBeginner

A bold zoa with a spiky orange/yellow skirt and dark contrasting body, named after the Mario villain for its menacing fiery look.

Tip: Moderate light and flow, low-to-mid in the tank; warm-colored zoas hold pigment better without excessive PAR.

Magiciansrepresentative

Magicians

UncommonBeginner

A zoa (Zoanthus) with a deep purple-to-maroon outer disc, a contrasting red/orange body, and a shimmering blue-teal metallic center near the mouth.

Tip: Blue-heavy lighting at moderate PAR makes the teal center and purple disc fluoresce; keep low-to-mid with gentle flow. One of the easier zoas to grow.

Armageddonrepresentative

Armageddon

UncommonBeginner

A vivid purple mouth surrounded by a rich pink center, an irregular mottled ring of deep purple, and a matching purple skirt. A dramatic red zoa that glows under actinic light.

Tip: A fast, easy grower; place mid rockwork under moderate light and flow. Stable lighting helps hold the purple and pink contrast.

Blue Hornetrepresentative

Blue Hornet

UncommonBeginner

A blue-faced morph with a green ring and a dark-blue-and-neon-green layered skirt, part of the popular 'Hornet' naming family. Cool blue-dominant coloration.

Tip: Blue tones pop under moderate PAR with blue spectrum; place mid rockwork with moderate flow.

Gorilla Nipplerepresentative

Gorilla Nipple

UncommonBeginner

A paly with a green skirt, orange/red ring and prominent pink raised mouth, named for its distinctive protruding center.

Tip: Moderate light and flow; the contrasting mouth shows best low-to-mid in the display. Wear gloves with palys.

Daisy Cutterrepresentative

Daisy Cutter

UncommonBeginner

A zoa with a bright green skirt, vibrant orange-red center and a neon green or yellow mouth, also known as the JF (Jason Fox) Star Gazer.

Tip: Moderate light (PAR ~80-200) with actinic blue enhances color; give room to spread as it grows quickly. Wear gloves and eye protection.

Tubbs Bluerepresentative

Tubbs Blue

UncommonIntermediate

A classic blue morph (often associated with Zoanthus danae) with an intense blue-to-blue-violet oral disc encircled by dark reddish-brown tentacles. Prized as one of the more genuinely blue zoas, with color that pops under actinic light.

Tip: Blue coloration holds best under moderate PAR with good blue/actinic spectrum; place mid rockwork with moderate flow. Can be a touchy grower, so keep parameters stable rather than chasing high light.

King Midasrepresentative

King Midas

UncommonBeginner

A bright yellow/gold center with a blue-to-purple outer ring and a bright yellow-gold skirt, the golden look earning the King Midas name.

Tip: Moderate light keeps the gold saturated without bleaching; place mid rockwork with moderate flow. A solid grower once settled.

Whammin Watermelonrepresentative

Whammin Watermelon

UncommonBeginner

A watermelon-themed morph with a green body and pink/red center tones echoing watermelon flesh and rind. A fun, recognizable candy-store name.

Tip: Place mid rockwork under moderate light and gentle-to-moderate flow; stable conditions keep the green-and-pink contrast strong.

Grand Master Krakatoarepresentative

Grand Master Krakatoa

RareBeginner

A high-grade Krakatoa morph, typically a bright yellow outer rim with a pink/red center, the 'Grand Master' grade denoting the most saturated top-tier coloration of the Krakatoa line.

Tip: Place mid-tank under moderate, stable light and low-to-moderate flow; commonly sold as single-polyp or small WYSIWYG frags, so be patient as it establishes.

Pink Zipperrepresentative

Pink Zipper

UncommonBeginner

A bright pink and dark purple face peppered with glowing pink sparkles, with a teal-blue bar on the skirt giving a 'zippered' look. Sparkly and pink-dominant.

Tip: Moderate light brings out the pink sparkle; place mid rockwork with moderate flow. Avoid overly intense light that washes out the pink.

BamBamrepresentative

BamBam

CommonBeginner

Most often seen as 'Orange BamBam,' with intense orange fluorescence, thick centers and a ring of deep blue around the center edge. A classic, widely traded named zoa.

Tip: Hardy and adaptable; place low-to-mid under moderate light (PAR ~100-250) and moderate flow. A rapid grower and good beginner named morph.

Pink Diamondsrepresentative

Pink Diamonds

RareBeginner

An extraordinarily bright pink face, often with two dimple spots, and a fluorescent yellow skirt over a larger polyp. One of the most intensely pink zoas in the hobby.

Tip: Moderate, stable light keeps the pink face glowing without bleaching; place mid rockwork with moderate flow. A premium, limited-availability morph.

Goblins on Firerepresentative

Goblins on Fire

RareBeginner

A bright green center ringed in blue/purple leading out to a fiery red-orange skirt, with the 'on fire' look coming from the flaming outer ring. A high-end collector zoa.

Tip: Place mid rockwork under moderate, stable light (~125-200 PAR) and gentle-to-moderate flow; noted as a medium-slow grower, so be patient as it establishes.

Speckled Krakrepresentative

Speckled Krak

RareBeginner

A Krakatoa-derived morph in warm orange and yellow-green tones with a sparkly speckled face on a larger, hardier polyp than the original Krakatoa.

Tip: Place mid-tank under moderate, stable light and gentle-to-moderate flow; like other Krakatoa-line zoas it rewards patience as it establishes.

Nuclear Greenrepresentative

Nuclear Green

CommonBeginner

A Palythoa with an intensely bright, glowing green face. A classic, very fast-spreading 'green paly' staple in the hobby.

Tip: Extremely hardy; place anywhere from sand bed to mid rock under moderate light. It spreads aggressively, so keep it away from slower neighbors.

Armor of Godrepresentative

Armor of God

UncommonBeginner

Bold, high-impact polyps with strong contrasting color (often bright pink-to-red faces with dark variegation), frequently abbreviated 'AOG' in the trade. A standout, high-visual-punch zoa.

Tip: Place mid rockwork under moderate light (PAR ~100-250) and moderate flow; often sold per-polyp, so expect to grow out small starts patiently.

Pandorarepresentative

Pandora

CommonBeginner

A yellowish-gold base with light pink/golden speckling and deep purple-to-magenta skirts giving a starburst appearance, on a larger 'paly'-type polyp. A hardy, fast-growing favorite.

Tip: Very beginner-friendly and fast; place low-to-mid under moderate light and flow. Grows quickly enough to carpet a plug.

Rainbow Hornetrepresentative

Rainbow Hornet

UncommonBeginner

Named for an alternating red-and-orange skirt with a blue face and a bright yellow ring around the mouth. A multicolor member of the Hornet family.

Tip: Place mid rockwork under moderate light to hold the multicolor skirt; moderate flow and stable parameters keep the rainbow tones vivid.

Fire and Icerepresentative

Fire and Ice

CommonBeginner

A sky-blue mouth rimmed by a dark blue/purple body leading out to a bright orange-to-red skirt, contrasting 'fire' (orange) and 'ice' (blue). A hobby staple.

Tip: Hardy and adaptable; place low-to-mid under moderate light and flow. A reliable spreader and great beginner named zoa.

Blow Poprepresentative

Blow Pop

CommonBeginner

A candy-named morph with a steely/baby-blue face and a contrasting orange mouth and skirt. Often used as a broad name for a colorful sweet-toned zoa.

Tip: Place mid rockwork under moderate light (PAR ~100-250) and moderate flow; an easy, forgiving zoa for new reefers.

Eye of Rarepresentative

Eye of Ra

UncommonBeginner

An Egyptian-themed morph with a striking contrasting central 'eye,' the dark pupil-like center surrounded by brighter body and skirt tones.

Tip: Place mid rockwork under moderate light to emphasize the central eye contrast; moderate flow and stable parameters.

Selectively bred (man-made)
Rastasrepresentative

Rastas

Iconic line-collected morph with green-and-orange centers ringed by red — a trade-named designer zoa.

Everlasting Gobstopperrepresentative

Everlasting Gobstopper

UncommonBeginner

A candy-inspired morph with concentric color rings reminiscent of the Willy Wonka gobstopper, layering multiple bands of color in one polyp.

Tip: Place mid-tank under moderate light (PAR ~100-250) to keep the ringed color bands distinct; moderate flow and stable parameters help it color up.

Daisy Duke's Palyrepresentative

Daisy Duke's Paly

RareBeginner

A named Palythoa with bold contrasting coloration, sold as a signature designer paly. Larger polyps typical of Palythoa rather than smaller Zoanthus.

Tip: As a paly it tolerates higher light and flow than many small zoas; Jason Fox lists it as high-light/high-flow on mid rockwork. Palys can be aggressive spreaders, so place it away from prized neighbors.

WWC Bob Marleyrepresentative

WWC Bob Marley

RareBeginner

A purple skirt and center with a bright green ring and a signature orange ring around the dark center over a neon green body. A vivid, highly sought-after designer zoa.

Tip: Place mid rockwork under moderate, stable light to keep the neon green and orange ring bright; moderate-to-strong flow. Small-to-medium polyps that color up best under steady conditions.

JF Bloodshotrepresentative

JF Bloodshot

RareBeginner

A bright green polyp with a deep maroon/blood-red center, the red 'bloodshot' eye contrasting against green. A signature Jason Fox zoa.

Tip: Place mid rockwork under moderate, stable light (PAR ~100-250) and gentle-to-moderate flow; a moderately fast grower once established.

Habitat & enclosure

Zoas adapt to a wide range of light (PAR 75-200) and low-to-moderate flow; many morphs hold their brightest colors at moderate light and gentle current. Place them low to mid in the aquascape; enough flow to keep detritus off the polyps prevents melting. Keep stable reef parameters: SG ~1.025, 76-80°F, pH 8.1-8.4. They appreciate slightly higher nutrients than SPS and dislike pristine, ultra-low-nutrient systems.

Substrate

Glue zoa frags onto live rock or frag plugs with cyanoacrylate gel; the colony will encrust outward on its own. They do not anchor well to loose sand, so keep them on solid surfaces.

Equipment & setup

Standard reef lighting (PAR 75-200) and a powerhead providing moderate, varied flow keep polyps clean and colorful. A protein skimmer is recommended, though zoas tolerate higher nutrients. No calcium/alkalinity dosing required as they form no stony skeleton.

Diet

Mostly photosynthetic via zooxanthellae. Polyps also feed on particulates and will take fine foods like phytoplankton, rotifers, or coral-specific blends; periodic feeding can intensify color and speed spreading but is not essential.

Behavior & temperament

A colony spreads via stolons across rock, and different zoa colonies can chemically war with one another and with other corals, so leave space between competing colonies. Polyps closing for extended periods signal irritation, pests, or poor water quality. Note: Palythoa species (often sold alongside Zoanthus) are larger and carry the highest palytoxin loads.

Health

Hardy but subject to a few specific threats: zoa-eating nudibranchs, zoa pox (small white spots), sundial snails, and Aiptasia/flatworm hitchhikers. 'Melting' or sudden closure usually points to a pest or a parameter crash. CRITICAL: many zoas/palys contain palytoxin — never boil rock with them, avoid touching them with open cuts, wear gloves and eye protection, and never handle them near steam or hot water.

Tips, DIY & hacks

Always dip new colonies in a coral-safe dip (e.g. CoralRx or Bayer) and inspect for nudibranchs and their eggs before adding to the tank. Frag by cutting the mat between polyps and gluing pieces to plugs. WEAR GLOVES AND EYE PROTECTION when cutting or handling — palytoxin exposure can be serious.

Sources

  1. Aquarium Corals: Selection, Husbandry, and Natural History (Eric Borneman) (reference)
  2. WWM Zoanthid (Zoanthus, Palythoa) FAQs (website)
  3. CDC — Palytoxin exposure associated with home aquariums (reference)
  4. Wikipedia: Zoanthids (wiki)