Micromussa (Micro Lord)

UFO Micro Lord →

A classic small-polyp Micro Lord with brick-red septal striping and, most distinctively, a vividly contrasting oral disc that glows yellow (sometimes green) like a little flying saucer at the center of each polyp.

Tip: Give it lower light and low-to-medium alternating flow; too much intensity can wash the trademark yellow oral disc toward a flat red, so keep it shaded on the sandbed or lower rockwork. These corals shift color quickly with lighting changes.

Rainbow Micromussa (Rainbow Acan Lord) →

The catch-all Aussie-import rainbow Micro Lord: fat fleshy polyps splashing through red, orange, yellow, green, and blue across a single oral disc. These are the funky multicolor *Micromussa lordhowensis* (formerly *Acanthastrea lordhowensis*) pieces commonly called 'Acan Lords' or just 'Lords.'

Tip: Place under a bluer spectrum at moderate PAR; a stronger blue light helps hold the rainbow coloration, whereas hot white-heavy light tends to morph it toward dominant red/orange. Leave space between colonies, as Micromussa have a strong sting.

ECC Rainbow Road →

A standout designer Micro Lord with orange mouths shot through with blue patterning, wrapped in a mantle of concentric green, yellow, and red rings. A high-end collector rainbow that commands premium per-head pricing.

Tip: Treat it as a low-light, low-flow gem: keep it on the sandbed or a shaded ledge so the orange-and-blue oral disc stays bright, and spot-feed occasionally to keep heads plump and dividing.

Cherry Limeade Rainbow Micromussa →

A dessert-named rainbow Micro Lord with a cherry-red base that fades into a pink outer layer, then transforms into a bright orange-and-blue rim. Notable for exceptionally large, fleshy polyps.

Tip: Give it the standard Micro Lord placement of lower light and gentle flow on the sandbed; the big polyps respond well to occasional target feeding, which speeds new head budding.

Raging Storm Micromussa →

A bright two-tone Micro Lord ('Acan lord') morph dominated by vivid orange polyps with teal/green accents, sold as an aquacultured, quarantine-protected frag.

Tip: Low light, low flow, sandbed placement is ideal; this is a forgiving LPS that feeds readily, so the occasional meaty target feeding helps it spread.

Holy Grail Micromussa →

The iconic blue-light showpiece of the Micro Lord world: a glowing lime-yellow oral disc ringed by deep blue, then bands of lime-green and yellow, finished with a wide cherry-red outer ring. Often called the industry's top aquacultured LPS for its jewel-like, rainbow-ringed polyps.

Tip: Keep it on the sandbed or a low rock shelf under modest light (~100-150 PAR) with gentle, indirect flow so the polyps inflate fully and the colors stay saturated rather than browning out. Target-feed a small amount of meaty frozen food about once a week.

TSA Freak Show Micromussa →

A vendor-branded rainbow Micro Lord in the high-color 'freak show' tier, with bold multicolor polyps in the red/orange/green/blue range typical of top-shelf designer Micromussa.

Tip: Keep it on the lower third of the tank under softer light (~150 PAR) with gentle alternating flow; like other Micro Lords it shows best color and fullest polyp extension out of direct high-intensity light.

Jason Fox Holy Grail Micromussa →

A Jason Fox signature offering of the Holy Grail Micro Lord (*M. amakusensis*) showing striking concentric rings from the center out: neon green, then bright purple-green, into orange and red, finished by a ring of light blue, with polyps about half an inch across.

Tip: Medium-low to medium light (roughly 80-250 PAR) and low-to-medium flow keeps the tight color rings crisp; avoid blasting flow directly at the fleshy polyps, which can prevent full inflation.

Mardi Gras Acan (TSA Psycho Troll) →

A festive multicolor Micro Lord in TSA's signature tier, with carnival-bright polyps mixing greens, oranges, reds, and blues. Frags run roughly three-quarter to one inch from the mother colony.

Tip: Keep it shaded and low in the tank with mild alternating flow; consistent moderate light prevents the brighter accent colors from bleaching toward solid red.