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🐟 AquaticCare difficulty: IntermediateLegal complexity: Low

Hammer coral

Euphyllia ancora · also called Anchor coral, Hammerhead coral, Bubble hammer, Branching hammer

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Hammer coral

A hardy, popular LPS coral instantly recognized by its fleshy tentacles tipped with T- or anchor-shaped (hammer-shaped) ends that sway in the current. Available in branching and wall (single-skeleton) forms and a range of fluorescent green, gold, and metallic morphs, it is a forgiving choice for the mid-range reef but carries potent stinging sweeper tentacles that demand respectful spacing from neighbours.

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Quick facts

SizeIndividual polyps with hammer/anchor-shaped tentacle tips ~1-2 in (2.5-5 cm); colonies can spread to 12+ in (30+ cm) over years, either branching (wall) or with
Lifespan5–50 years
Social needssolo
Native regionIndo-Pacific
OriginOld World
Climate🌴 Tropical
Water type🌊 Marine
FamilyEuphylliidae
GenusEuphyllia

Part of the LPS Corals

Large-polyp stony corals (brains, Euphyllia, Goniopora, Scolymia, Lobophyllia, Favites, Acan, Dendro, Octospawn) with fleshy polyps over a calcium-carbonate skeleton. Intermediate-care reef corals that appreciate moderate light/flow and direct feeding.

Acanthophyllia (Meat Coral)AlveoporaBlastomussaBubble coralCandy cane coralChalice coralDendrophyllia (Branching Sun Coral)Duncan coralElegance coralFavites (Pineapple Brain)Frogspawn coralGoniopora (Flowerpot Coral)Lobophyllia (Lobed Brain / Meat Coral)Micromussa (Micro Lord)+7 more →

Habitat & space requirements

From the minimum an animal needs to be kept humanely, up to the ideal setup. Bigger is almost always better — minimums are floors, not targets.

Photo coming soon
Minimum

Stable nano reef

20+ gal / SG 1.025 / Alk 8-9 dKH / Ca 420-440 / Mg 1300-1400

LPS coral — needs more stable Alk/Ca/Mg than soft corals. Medium light, LOW flow (sweepers/tentacles need calm to extend). Some target-feeding helps. Hammer (Euphyllia ancora) — Euphylliid like frogspawn; same sweeper-tentacle stinging warning.

Photo coming soon
Recommended

Established 40+ gal reef

40+ gal cycled 6+ mo / stable Alk

Established reef with calm pockets for tentacle extension. Target-feed mysis/PE pellet 1-2× weekly. Watch for sweeper tentacles stinging neighbours.

Photo coming soon
Ideal

Mature reef + LPS garden

75+ gal / show-quality stability

Mature mixed reef with dedicated LPS placement (low rockwork or sand) and spacing for sweepers. Stable parameters > peak parameters. Hammer (Euphyllia ancora) — Euphylliid like frogspawn; same sweeper-tentacle stinging warning.

Life & growth stages

How this animal changes through its life — each stage often has its own care, diet and space needs.

Photo coming soon
Planula larva

Corals begin as a free-swimming planula larva released into the water column after spawning or brooding. The tiny, ciliated larva drifts and swims until it finds suitable hard substrate to settle on.

Photo coming soon
Single polyp

Once settled, the larva metamorphoses into a single founding polyp that secretes a calcium-carbonate (or proteinaceous) base and extends a ring of tentacles to feed. Reef-building corals begin laying down skeleton at this stage.

Mature colony stage
Mature colony

The founding polyp buds asexually into a colony of many genetically identical polyps, building the species' characteristic growth form — branching, plating, encrusting, or massive. A mature colony can reproduce and contributes to reef structure.

Color & pattern variants

Natural variants occur in the wild; selectively bred (man-made) variants were developed in captivity.

Natural
Gold Hammerrepresentative

Gold Hammer

CommonIntermediate

A classic Euphyllia ancora morph with warm golden-yellow tentacles, often with slightly brighter T-shaped tips that glow under blue light.

Tip: Place low-to-middle in the tank under moderate light (roughly 100-150 PAR) with gentle, indirect flow so the fleshy polyps can fully extend without tearing on neighbors. Keep 6+ inches from other corals to avoid sweeper-tentacle stings.

Toxic Green Hammerrepresentative

Toxic Green Hammer

CommonIntermediate

An intensely fluorescent lime/neon-green branching hammer whose tentacle tips practically glow, often paired with a contrasting gold or brown stem.

Tip: Give it moderate blue-spectrum light to maximize the green fluorescence and keep flow gentle and indirect to protect the inflated tentacles. Allow space from neighbors for the sweeper tentacles.

Green Hammer (Wall)representative

Green Hammer (Wall)

CommonBeginner

Classic Euphyllia ancora with green, hammer/anchor-shaped tentacle tips in a wall form. The most common and hardy hammer.

Tip: Moderate indirect flow and PAR 80-120 keeps the polyp fully inflated; aim flow so the tentacles drift rather than blast them.

Branching Hammerrepresentative

Branching Hammer

CommonIntermediate

Branching skeleton with each head on its own stalk, ideal for fragging. Same anchor-tipped tentacles as the wall form.

Tip: Frag by snapping a branch at the base with bone cutters and glue the skeleton (not the flesh) to a plug.

Gold/Torch-Gold Hammer (Gold Hammer)representative

Gold/Torch-Gold Hammer (Gold Hammer)

UncommonIntermediate

Golden-yellow body with green or contrasting tips, a brighter pigment line than standard green. Very popular mid-range piece.

Tip: Stable alkalinity is critical — Euphyllia hate alk swings and the gold morphs brown-out and recede fast when parameters drift.

Octo / Wall Octo Hammerrepresentative

Octo / Wall Octo Hammer

UncommonIntermediate

Hammer with rounded, multi-lobed anchor tips and a denser polyp, blending hammer and frogspawn traits. Fuller-looking than standard hammer.

Tip: Acclimate light slowly; the fuller polyps can bleach if moved straight under high PAR from a dim holding tank.

Gold Torch / 24K Hammerrepresentative

Gold Torch / 24K Hammer

RareAdvanced

Premium intensely golden hammer with luminous tips, among the priciest Euphyllia trade names. Sensitive high-color line.

Tip: Most prone to 'brown jelly' and rapid tissue necrosis — quarantine, keep flow steady, and never let it touch or sting a neighbor.

Rainbow Hammerrepresentative

Rainbow Hammer

RareAdvanced

Multicolor morph with pink/purple/orange tips over a green or gold body. True rainbows command high prices and sell out fast.

Tip: Protect the pigment with dimmer blue-heavy light and rock-solid parameters; high-end Euphyllia are the first to crash in an unstable tank.

Indo / Aussie Gold Hammerrepresentative

Indo / Aussie Gold Hammer

UncommonIntermediate

Regional collection variant; Aussie hammers tend to have thicker tissue and richer gold than Indo imports. Both share anchor-tipped tentacles.

Tip: Space all hammers 6+ inches apart — their long sweeper tentacles deliver a powerful sting to anything within reach at night.

Orange Hammerrepresentative

Orange Hammer

UncommonIntermediate

A hammer with warm orange-toned tentacles, often graduating to lighter tips, sitting between gold and the rarer red/pink hues. A vivid, warm-spectrum standard.

Tip: Mid-tank placement with gentle, turbulent flow so all heads inflate evenly; avoid sandbed grit blowing onto the flesh which causes tissue recession.

Branching Green Hammerrepresentative

Branching Green Hammer

CommonIntermediate

The branching form of hammer coral (Euphyllia/Fimbriaphyllia ancora) with fluorescent green hammer-tipped tentacles on a tree-like skeleton, each branch capable of producing new heads. The accessible workhorse hammer.

Tip: Branching hammers frag more easily and tolerate slightly stronger flow than wall types; mount mid-tank where dropped daughter heads can re-attach to nearby rock.

Wall (Octopus) Green Hammerrepresentative

Wall (Octopus) Green Hammer

CommonIntermediate

The wall/meat form of green hammer (Euphyllia/Fimbriaphyllia ancora) where many tentacles emerge from a continuous folded skeleton rather than branches, creating a dense field of green anchor tips.

Tip: Wall hammers cannot drop frags as easily, so position once and leave it; rest it on sand or a flat ledge in moderate light and keep gentle flow to avoid flesh tearing on the sharp skeleton edges.

Rainbow Branching Hammerrepresentative

Rainbow Branching Hammer

UncommonIntermediate

A multicolor branching hammer blending neon green, pink, gold and purple tones across the tentacles for a 'rainbow' effect under mixed lighting.

Tip: Mount on a low-to-mid rock with moderate light and soft flow; too much intense light can wash out the pinks and purples. Give it room from aggressive neighbors.

Splatter Branching Hammerrepresentative

Splatter Branching Hammer

UncommonIntermediate

A branching hammer with a mottled 'splatter' pattern of contrasting green, gold and purple blotches scattered across the tentacles.

Tip: Keep under moderate light with indirect flow; position where the patterned tentacles stay extended and visible from the front glass. Leave space for the stinging sweeper tentacles.

Golden Splatter Branching Hammerrepresentative

Golden Splatter Branching Hammer

RareIntermediate

A premium splatter hammer dominated by rich gold with green and darker splatter accents, noticeably more saturated than the standard splatter.

Tip: Moderate light and gentle flow; give it space from aggressive neighbors since the long sweeper tentacles can sting. Acclimate lighting slowly to keep the gold from washing out.

Holy Grail Hammerrepresentative

Holy Grail Hammer

RareIntermediate

A highly sought multicolor hammer combining gold, green, orange and pink in a vivid 'holy grail' palette, named for its premium coloration.

Tip: Provide stable moderate light and gentle indirect flow; acclimate light slowly to preserve the warm gold and orange tones. Keep well away from neighbors due to aggressive sweepers.

Indo Gold Branching Hammerrepresentative

Indo Gold Branching Hammer

UncommonIntermediate

An Indonesian-collected gold branching hammer with smaller, faster-growing 'micro' heads than the Australian type, showing warm gold tentacles over a purplish body.

Tip: Because the Indo heads are smaller, give moderate light and gentle indirect flow and let colonies branch out on open low rock. Still leave space for sweeper tentacles.

Aussie Gold Hammerrepresentative

Aussie Gold Hammer

UncommonIntermediate

An Australian-collected gold hammer with larger, fleshier heads showing orange-brown tentacles tipped in gold.

Tip: The big Aussie heads need room to inflate, so place on open rock with moderate light and low indirect flow to avoid tissue damage. Account for its semi-aggressive sweeper tentacles.

Gold Wall Hammerrepresentative

Gold Wall Hammer

UncommonIntermediate

A wall-form (non-branching) Euphyllia ancora that grows as a continuous meandering wall of gold tentacles with T-shaped tips rather than separate heads.

Tip: Wall hammers grow slowly and prefer a stable spot with moderate light and gentle flow; avoid high flow that can fold or tear the wall tissue, and keep them clear of neighboring corals.

Golden Octospawnrepresentative

Golden Octospawn

UncommonIntermediate

An octospawn (a related Euphyllia, typically E. paradivisa, NOT the true hammer E. ancora) with rounded clusters of eight-pointed tentacle tips in warm solid gold.

Tip: Octospawn likes slightly lower flow than hammers; place low-to-mid with moderate light and gentle current so the puffy tips inflate. Still allow space from neighbors.

Rainbow Octospawnrepresentative

Rainbow Octospawn

RareIntermediate

An octospawn (a related Euphyllia, not the true hammer E. ancora) displaying a multi-tonal mix of neon green, pastel pink, gold and orange across its rounded tentacle tips.

Tip: Use blended white/blue light to show the full rainbow and keep flow gentle; octospawn tissue is delicate and tears in strong current. Leave space from other corals.

Gold Tip Frogspawnrepresentative

Gold Tip Frogspawn

CommonIntermediate

A frogspawn (Euphyllia divisa/paradivisa) — the grape-tipped genus-mate of the hammer, NOT the true hammer E. ancora — with green bodies and bright gold-tipped, branching tentacles.

Tip: Frogspawn extends a lot of tissue, so give it room from neighbors, moderate light and gentle indirect flow to avoid sweeper-tentacle stings.

Selectively bred (man-made)
Designer metallic / splatter hammersrepresentative

Designer metallic / splatter hammers

Line-selected and aquacultured color strains (e.g., metallic gold-tip, splatter, and rainbow hammers) propagated for enhanced coloration in captivity.

Neon Splatter Branching Hammerrepresentative

Neon Splatter Branching Hammer

UncommonIntermediate

A bright neon-green-based splatter hammer with electric fluorescent blotches. World Wide Corals also markets a related 'Neon Splatter Frammer' — a frogspawn/hammer (Euphyllia) hybrid growth form — under the same Neon Splatter name.

Tip: Use blue-heavy lighting to pop the neon fluorescence and keep flow low so the splatter-patterned heads inflate fully. The Frammer form tolerates a touch more light but keep PAR under ~175 to avoid burning.

Cornbred Dreamsicle Hammerrepresentative

Cornbred Dreamsicle Hammer

RareIntermediate

A creamy orange-and-white branching hammer named for its 'dreamsicle' pastel orange tones blended with lighter tips.

Tip: Moderate light keeps the soft pastel orange from bleaching; pair with gentle indirect flow so the delicate coloration stays even across heads. Leave space for sweeper tentacles.

Gold Rainbow Mint Hammerrepresentative

Gold Rainbow Mint Hammer

RareIntermediate

A branching hammer mixing minty green, gold and rainbow pastel tones across the tentacles for a soft multicolor look.

Tip: Moderate blue-leaning light brings out the mint and rainbow tones; keep flow indirect to let the patterned heads stay fully open. Give it room from aggressive neighbors.

Habitat & enclosure

Place in the lower-to-mid reef zone where it receives moderate, indirect flow that gently sways the tentacles without tearing the tissue or letting it deflate. Lighting should be moderate, roughly 80-150 PAR; too-high light can bleach it while too-low light dulls the color and stunts polyp extension. Keep stable reef parameters: salinity SG ~1.025, temperature 76-80°F, pH 8.1-8.4, calcium 400-450 ppm, alkalinity 8-11 dKH, and magnesium 1300-1400 ppm. Like all Euphyllia, it resents large, rapid alkalinity swings.

Substrate

Mount on live rock or a frag plug. Wall/branching colonies are best wedged or epoxied securely into the rockwork; single-head specimens can be placed in a rubble crevice or glued to a plug. Avoid placing directly on the sand bed where detritus and shifting grains irritate the flesh.

Equipment & setup

Needs reef LED or T5 lighting delivering moderate PAR (~80-150), a wavemaker or powerhead set to gentle, varied flow, and a protein skimmer for water quality. As a stony coral it builds an aragonite skeleton and draws down calcium, alkalinity, and magnesium, so a balanced two-part, kalkwasser, or dosing regimen keeps those parameters stable once consumption rises in an established tank.

Diet

Derives most of its energy photosynthetically from symbiotic zooxanthellae. Growth and color improve with target feeding of meaty foods such as mysis shrimp, finely chopped seafood, or reef pellets one to three times per week — gently spot-feed onto the extended tentacles after they grab the food.

Behavior & temperament

A single colony is one organism, but it is aggressive toward neighbours: it extends long, stinging sweeper tentacles (especially at night) that can reach several inches and will chemically and physically burn most other corals. Give it 4-6 in of open space on all sides. Same-species hammers usually tolerate touching, but mixing different Euphyllia species — and especially mixing torch (E. glabrescens) with hammer/frogspawn — can let one sting or transmit disease to the other, so spacing them apart is the safe default.

Health

Generally hardy but susceptible to 'brown jelly' disease — a fast-spreading brown, mucousy slime, often triggered by tissue damage, poor flow, or unstable parameters — which can dissolve a head within days; isolate, dip, and increase flow at the first sign. Watch for bleaching under excessive light and for 'bailout' (polyps detaching) under severe stress. Euphyllia are sensitive to swings in alkalinity, so dose carefully to keep Ca/Alk/Mg stable.

Tips, DIY & hacks

Acclimate to your lighting slowly over 1-2 weeks to prevent bleaching, and dip new frags (e.g., coral dip) before adding them. Plan placement with sweeper-tentacle reach in mind — leave generous gaps from rivals. Frag wall colonies by cutting between corallite heads with a bone cutter, keeping skeleton under healthy tissue.

Sources

  1. Euphyllia ancora — WoRMS World Register of Marine Species (reference)
  2. Hammer Coral Care — Reef Builders (care guide)
  3. Wikipedia: Hammer coral (wiki)