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Sun coral

Tubastraea sp. · also called Sun polyp coral, Tubastraea, Orange sun coral, Cup coral

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Sun coral

Tubastraea sun corals are non-photosynthetic LPS that lack zooxanthellae, displaying brilliant orange, yellow, or black corallites that bloom into starbursts when fed. Their beauty is matched by demanding husbandry: every polyp must be hand-fed, making them an advanced, high-maintenance coral.

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Quick facts

SizePolyps ~0.25-0.75 in (6-20 mm) across when extended; colonies form mounds of dozens to hundreds of corallites several inches wide.
Lifespan10–50 years
Social needsgroup
Native regionIndo-Pacific native; invasive in the Atlantic, Caribbean, and Gulf of Mexico
OriginWorldwide
Climate🌴 Tropical
Water type🌊 Marine
FamilyDendrophylliidae
GenusTubastraea

Part of the LPS Corals

Large-polyp stony corals (brains, Euphyllia, Goniopora, Scolymia, Lobophyllia, Favites, Acan, Dendro, Octospawn) with fleshy polyps over a calcium-carbonate skeleton. Intermediate-care reef corals that appreciate moderate light/flow and direct feeding.

Acanthophyllia (Meat Coral)AlveoporaBlastomussaBubble coralCandy cane coralChalice coralDendrophyllia (Branching Sun Coral)Duncan coralElegance coralFavites (Pineapple Brain)Frogspawn coralGoniopora (Flowerpot Coral)Hammer coralLobophyllia (Lobed Brain / Meat Coral)+7 more →

Habitat & space requirements

From the minimum an animal needs to be kept humanely, up to the ideal setup. Bigger is almost always better — minimums are floors, not targets.

Photo coming soon
Minimum

Established reef

40+ gal cycled 6+ mo / Alk 8-9 stable / Ca 420-440 / Mg 1300-1400

Advanced LPS — needs water-parameter stability + target feeding. Medium light, low flow. Newer reefers should start with hardier softies. Sun coral (Tubastraea) — NON-photosynthetic; needs target feeding 2-3× per WEEK minimum; shaded placement; specialist commitment.

Photo coming soon
Recommended

Mature 75-gal reef

75+ gal mature reef / dosing for Alk/Ca/Mg

Mature reef with parameter dosing (2-part or kalkwasser). Target-feed mysis/PE-flake or pellet several times weekly. Spot it low/mid with calm flow.

Photo coming soon
Ideal

Show reef + dedicated feeder

120+ gal show reef / dedicated turkey-baster feeding

Show-quality mixed reef with stable parameters and structured feeding routine. Sun coral (Tubastraea) — NON-photosynthetic; needs target feeding 2-3× per WEEK minimum; shaded placement; specialist commitment.

Life & growth stages

How this animal changes through its life — each stage often has its own care, diet and space needs.

Photo coming soon
Planula larva

Corals begin as a free-swimming planula larva released into the water column after spawning or brooding. The tiny, ciliated larva drifts and swims until it finds suitable hard substrate to settle on.

Photo coming soon
Single polyp

Once settled, the larva metamorphoses into a single founding polyp that secretes a calcium-carbonate (or proteinaceous) base and extends a ring of tentacles to feed. Reef-building corals begin laying down skeleton at this stage.

Mature colony stage
Mature colony

The founding polyp buds asexually into a colony of many genetically identical polyps, building the species' characteristic growth form — branching, plating, encrusting, or massive. A mature colony can reproduce and contributes to reef structure.

Color & pattern variants

Natural variants occur in the wild; selectively bred (man-made) variants were developed in captivity.

Natural
Orange sun coralrepresentative

Orange sun coral

CommonIntermediate

The classic sun coral: a dome-shaped (massive) colony of corallites cloaked in bright orange tissue with yellow-to-clear feeder polyps that bloom into a fuzzy starburst at feeding time. The most recognizable and widely sold form of *Tubastraea* (commonly labeled *T. faulkneri* / *T. coccinea*).

Tip: Place in a shaded overhang or cave with moderate flow, out of direct light — it is non-photosynthetic and needs spot-feeding (mysis, reef foods) almost nightly to thrive. Keep it well fed or polyps recede and the colony starves.

Yellow / Gold sun coralrepresentative

Yellow / Gold sun coral

Yellow-to-gold corallites and polyps (often Tubastraea faulkneri/aurea types), a prized brighter color form.

Black sun coralrepresentative

Black sun coral

UncommonAdvanced

A dramatic tree-like coral with a near-black, dark-brown or greenish-black branching skeleton and large polyps that often glow fluorescent green when open — the only branching (dendroid) species in *Tubastraea* (*T. micrantha*).

Tip: Mount upright in a shaded cave with moderate-to-strong current; it is the touchiest sun coral, so feed heavily and consistently — survival is poor for under-fed colonies, which makes it the hardest of the group to keep long-term.

Orange Sun Coral (Tubastraea faulkneri/coccinea)representative

Orange Sun Coral (Tubastraea faulkneri/coccinea)

CommonAdvanced

The iconic bright-orange sun coral with a deep-orange corallite skeleton and matching tentacles; the most-traded Tubastraea.

Tip: It is azooxanthellate (non-photosynthetic) — you MUST target-feed every polyp meaty food 3-5x/week or it slowly starves; that feeding burden, not light, is why it's an advanced coral.

Yellow Sun Coral (Tubastraea aurea)representative

Yellow Sun Coral (Tubastraea aurea)

UncommonAdvanced

A sunny yellow form with yellow tissue and tentacles instead of orange; same non-photosynthetic biology as the orange.

Tip: Feed in a low-flow window so polyps stay everted and can grab food; pulse the powerheads off at feeding time, then resume flow once they've eaten.

Black Sun Coral (Tubastraea micranthus)representative

Black Sun Coral (Tubastraea micranthus)

UncommonAdvanced

A branching, tree-like sun coral with a dark green-black skeleton and dark polyps that extend feathery green-tinged tentacles, looking dramatically different from the typical encrusting orange forms.

Tip: Mount it where it gets low light and moderate, varied flow, and be especially diligent with frequent target-feeding — branching black suns are notoriously demanding and decline fast if underfed.

Branching Sun Coral (Tubastraea sp.)representative

Branching Sun Coral (Tubastraea sp.)

UncommonAdvanced

Orange or yellow forms that grow upward into branching trees rather than flat mats, prized for their sculptural shape.

Tip: Mount upright with space between branches so every polyp gets food and detritus doesn't collect in the crotches; spot-feed the inner polyps that competition usually leaves hungry.

Neon Green Sun Coralrepresentative

Neon Green Sun Coral

RareAdvanced

An uncommon green-tentacled Tubastraea that fluoresces under blue light; a sought-after color form of the non-photosynthetic sun coral.

Tip: Light only affects how it looks, not how it eats — still feed relentlessly; the green is a bonus, never a substitute for daily target feeding.

Pink/Rose Sun Coralrepresentative

Pink/Rose Sun Coral

RareIntermediate

A sun coral offered with pinkish-rose to salmon polyps, a softer pastel alternative to the standard fiery orange. Buyers should be aware that pink coloration in sun corals is sometimes the result of artificial dyeing rather than natural pigment.

Tip: House it in a shaded, low-light spot with moderate flow and feed each polyp meaty foods several times weekly. Be cautious of unusually intense or uniform pink colonies, which may be dyed and tend to fade; consistent feeding is what actually keeps the colony healthy.

Yellow Sun Coralrepresentative

Yellow Sun Coral

CommonIntermediate

A yellow-tissue color form of *Tubastraea* with corallites that often project and arrange more loosely than the orange form, giving the colony a brighter, more golden look when expanded. Sold as 'Tube Coral, Yellow' or 'Sun Coral, Yellow.'

Tip: Keep in low light with gentle-to-moderate flow; target-feed each polyp individually with meaty foods several times a week to fuel its polyp budding and hold its color.

Pink Sun Coralrepresentative

Pink Sun Coral

UncommonIntermediate

An uncommon *Tubastraea* color form with pink-to-salmon tissue, sometimes paired with yellow polyps. Prized as the scarcest of the warm-toned sun coral colors; under some lighting an orange colony can also read pink.

Tip: Shade it under a ledge with moderate flow and feed nightly; like all sun corals it is non-photosynthetic, so consistent feeding — not light — keeps the colony and its color healthy.

Selectively bred (man-made)
Aquacultured Orange Sun Coral Colonyrepresentative

Aquacultured Orange Sun Coral Colony

UncommonAdvanced

Captive-grown sun coral colonies raised by dedicated feeders; the same orange Tubastraea but adapted to aquarium feeding from the start.

Tip: A great way to buy sun coral because the polyps are already feeding-trained — keep the routine going; a sun coral that stops being fed will recede polyp by polyp.

Australian Fat Head Dendrophylliarepresentative

Australian Fat Head Dendrophyllia

UncommonIntermediate

A heavy, large-headed sun coral with oversized bright yellow-to-orange polyps and an orange base — frags are sold as single large heads rather than branches. Long traded under the 'Dendrophyllia' name, it was formally described in 2021 as *Tubastraea megacorallita*, placing it within the true sun coral genus.

Tip: Place low in a shaded spot with moderate flow; because the polyps are huge, feed sizeable meaty chunks (silversides, chopped krill, mysis) directly to each head frequently — it is a heavy feeder and is usually shipped live-arrival-only for this reason.

Habitat & enclosure

Sun corals are azooxanthellate (non-photosynthetic) stony corals—they get NO energy from light, so lighting is for viewing only and they often do best shaded or in lower-light, even overhanging or cave-like positions. They prefer moderate, turbulent flow to deliver food and carry waste away. Many keepers mount them on a shaded ledge or overhang, or even keep them in dedicated low-light non-photosynthetic systems. Because they are heavily fed, water quality management is critical: SG ~1.025, 76-80°F, pH 8.1-8.4, alkalinity 8-9 dKH, calcium ~420 ppm, magnesium ~1300 ppm, with strong export (skimming, carbon, water changes) to handle the nutrient load from frequent feeding.

Substrate

Mount on live rock, an overhang, or a shaded ledge—they do not need (and often dislike) bright placement. A shaded position reduces algae competition on the heavily fed colony. Keep them off open bright sand; a rock perch in moderate turbulent flow that delivers food is ideal. Some keepers dedicate a separate non-photosynthetic tank.

Equipment & setup

Reef hardware geared for a high feeding load: an oversized, efficient protein skimmer, activated carbon, and generous water changes to export the nutrients from frequent feeding. Lighting is optional/low (for viewing). A return pump and powerheads for moderate turbulent flow, a reliable heater, and accurate testing complete the setup. A turkey baster and a clear feeding cover/chamber are essential 'equipment' for targeted feeding.

Diet

This is the defining challenge: sun corals get essentially all their nutrition from captured food and MUST be fed—ideally every polyp, several times a week to daily—with meaty foods like mysis, cyclops, finely chopped shrimp, copepods, or reef roe. Many keepers feed under a clear cover/bottle or feeding chamber to concentrate food and prevent fish from stealing it, giving polyps 15-30 minutes to extend and capture. Underfed colonies slowly starve, with polyps failing to open and tissue receding off the skeleton. Their feeding labor is why they are advanced corals.

Behavior & temperament

Sessile colonial LPS whose polyps retract by day in nature and extend feeding tentacles when food is sensed (well-fed aquarium colonies can be trained to open more readily, even in light). They are not aggressive toward other corals and lack long sweeper tentacles, but the heavy feeding they require can foul water and feed nuisance algae if export is inadequate. They are safe to handle (sharp skeleton aside). Note: Tubastraea (orange cup coral) is a notorious invasive species in parts of the Atlantic/Caribbean and Gulf of Mexico, where it has spread on oil platforms and harmed native reefs—never release frags, water, or rubble into natural waters.

Health

A healthy, well-fed sun coral opens its polyps readily and keeps tissue fully covering the corallites. Warning signs of starvation or stress: polyps that stay closed for long periods, tissue receding and exposing bare white skeleton, and shrinking colonies. Brown jelly infection can spread quickly through a stressed colony and must be addressed by isolating and dipping affected pieces. Most sun coral failures are simply chronic underfeeding—commit to a rigorous feeding schedule before buying one.

Tips, DIY & hacks

Feed, feed, feed—target every polyp with meaty food multiple times weekly, ideally daily at first, using a baster and a clear cover to keep fish from stealing it; well-fed colonies grow fast and 'train' to open on a schedule. Place in shade, not bright light. Boost skimming and water changes to handle the feeding load. CRITICAL: Tubastraea is invasive in parts of the Atlantic, Caribbean, and Gulf of Mexico—never dispose of frags, fragments, or system water into the ocean or drains leading to natural waters; dispose of all coral waste responsibly.

Sources

  1. Tubastraea Lesson, 1830 — WoRMS World Register of Marine Species (reference)
  2. Tubastraea coccinea (orange cup coral) — invasive species profile, USGS NAS (care guide)
  3. Wikipedia: Sun coral (wiki)