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🐟 AquaticCare difficulty: IntermediateLegal complexity: Low

Octospawn

Fimbriaphyllia paradivisa · also called Octobubble, Octospawn Coral, Branching Frogspawn, Euphyllia paradivisa

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Octospawn is a branching Euphyllia-relative (Fimbriaphyllia paradivisa, the branching frogspawn) named in the trade for its plump, multi-tipped 'octopus-like' tentacles, an intermediate LPS that combines frogspawn-style flowing polyps with a potent sweeper-tentacle sting.

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Quick facts

SizeBranching colony of large fleshy polyps with multi-tipped tentacles; heads ~5-10 cm expanded, colonies of several to many heads
Lifespan10–50 years
Social needssolo
Native regionIndo-Pacific; Western Pacific reefs through the broader Indo-Pacific
OriginOld World
Climate🌴 Tropical
Water type🌊 Marine
FamilyEuphylliidae
GenusFimbriaphyllia

Part of the LPS Corals

Large-polyp stony corals (brains, Euphyllia, Goniopora, Scolymia, Lobophyllia, Favites, Acan, Dendro, Octospawn) with fleshy polyps over a calcium-carbonate skeleton. Intermediate-care reef corals that appreciate moderate light/flow and direct feeding.

Acanthophyllia (Meat Coral)AlveoporaBlastomussaBubble coralCandy cane coralChalice coralDendrophyllia (Branching Sun Coral)Duncan coralElegance coralFavites (Pineapple Brain)Frogspawn coralGoniopora (Flowerpot Coral)Hammer coralLobophyllia (Lobed Brain / Meat Coral)+7 more →

Habitat & space requirements

From the minimum an animal needs to be kept humanely, up to the ideal setup. Bigger is almost always better — minimums are floors, not targets.

Photo coming soon
Minimum

Stable nano reef

20+ gal / SG 1.025 / Alk 8-9 dKH / Ca 420-440 / Mg 1300-1400

LPS coral — needs more stable Alk/Ca/Mg than soft corals. Medium light, LOW flow (sweepers/tentacles need calm to extend). Some target-feeding helps. Octospawn (Fimbriaphyllia ancora/divisa octospawn variant) — 8-tentacled Euphylliid morph; same sweeper-tentacle care as hammer/frogspawn.

Photo coming soon
Recommended

Established 40+ gal reef

40+ gal cycled 6+ mo / stable Alk

Established reef with calm pockets for tentacle extension. Target-feed mysis/PE pellet 1-2× weekly. Watch for sweeper tentacles stinging neighbours.

Photo coming soon
Ideal

Mature reef + LPS garden

75+ gal / show-quality stability

Mature mixed reef with dedicated LPS placement (low rockwork or sand) and spacing for sweepers. Stable parameters > peak parameters. Octospawn (Fimbriaphyllia ancora/divisa octospawn variant) — 8-tentacled Euphylliid morph; same sweeper-tentacle care as hammer/frogspawn.

Life & growth stages

How this animal changes through its life — each stage often has its own care, diet and space needs.

Photo coming soon
Planula larva

Corals begin as a free-swimming planula larva released into the water column after spawning or brooding. The tiny, ciliated larva drifts and swims until it finds suitable hard substrate to settle on.

Photo coming soon
Single polyp

Once settled, the larva metamorphoses into a single founding polyp that secretes a calcium-carbonate (or proteinaceous) base and extends a ring of tentacles to feed. Reef-building corals begin laying down skeleton at this stage.

Photo coming soon
Mature colony

The founding polyp buds asexually into a colony of many genetically identical polyps, building the species' characteristic growth form — branching, plating, encrusting, or massive. A mature colony can reproduce and contributes to reef structure.

Color & pattern variants

Natural variants occur in the wild; selectively bred (man-made) variants were developed in captivity.

Natural

Gold/Green Octospawn

Common color forms with gold or green tentacles tipped in contrasting pink, purple, or white; the multi-tipped 'octo' tentacle shape is the defining feature.

Rainbow Octospawn

RareIntermediate

A multicolor octospawn blending green, teal, gold, and pink/orange tones across the same head, often with contrasting tipped tentacles. One of the most sought-after color forms of the species.

Tip: Place low-to-mid in the rockwork under moderate light (PAR ~80-150) with gentle, indirect flow so the fleshy polyps can fully inflate without tearing.

Green Octospawn

CommonBeginner

The classic green-bodied octospawn with the signature split, octopus-like fleshy tentacles. The baseline, most widely available color form of the species.

Tip: A forgiving beginner euphyllia: low-to-mid rock placement, moderate light (PAR ~80-150), and gentle indirect flow for full polyp inflation. Avoid direct lateral flow that keeps the heads deflated.

Gold Octospawn

RareIntermediate

A solid golden-yellow to honey-toned octospawn, often with a green or contrasting mouth. One of the more prized and less common color forms.

Tip: Give moderate light and gentle flow; the gold pigment holds best under moderate, not blasting, PAR — too much light can wash it pale.

Yellow Octospawn

UncommonIntermediate

A bright yellow-bodied octospawn, lighter and more lemon-toned than the deeper gold form. Often shows green undertones near the base.

Tip: Moderate light (PAR ~80-150) with soft, indirect flow lets the yellow tissue inflate fully; avoid direct high-flow that keeps the polyp deflated.

Toxic Green Octospawn

UncommonIntermediate

An intensely neon/electric green octospawn that glows hard under blue (actinic) lighting — the high-saturation 'toxic' grade of the common green form.

Tip: Pops most under blue-heavy reef lighting; place mid-rock with gentle flow so the bright green tentacles stay fully extended.

Blue Octospawn

RareIntermediate

A blue-to-teal toned octospawn, an unusual cool-color form versus the typical green and gold pieces. Often shows a blue body with lighter tips.

Tip: Blue tones read best under cooler, blue-spectrum light; keep flow gentle and indirect so the heads inflate evenly.

Teal Octospawn

UncommonIntermediate

A blue-green teal octospawn sitting between the standard green and the rarer blue forms, with a soft cool-toned body.

Tip: Mid-rock placement under moderate light with gentle flow keeps the teal coloration vivid and the polyps fully expanded.

Peach Tip Octospawn

UncommonIntermediate

A green-to-cream body octospawn with soft peach/salmon-colored tentacle tips, giving a two-tone tipped look.

Tip: Moderate light and gentle indirect flow keep the delicate peach tips colored up; too much light can wash the pastel tip color out.

Pink Tip Octospawn

UncommonIntermediate

A green or cream-bodied octospawn with pink-tinted tentacle tips, similar to the peach form but with cooler rosy highlights.

Tip: Keep under moderate blue-leaning light with soft flow to preserve the pink tip pigment and full polyp inflation.

Orange Tip Octospawn

UncommonIntermediate

A green-bodied octospawn capped with warm orange tentacle tips, the warmest-toned member of the 'tip' color family.

Tip: Place mid-rock under moderate light with gentle flow; the orange tips show strongest contrast against a green body under blended white-and-blue lighting.

Yellow Tip Octospawn

UncommonIntermediate

A green-to-gold body octospawn finished with bright yellow tentacle tips for a glowing two-tone look.

Tip: Moderate light (PAR ~80-150) with soft indirect flow keeps the yellow tips bright and the polyp fully inflated.

Gold Tip Octospawn

UncommonIntermediate

A green-bodied octospawn with rich gold/amber tentacle tips — deeper and warmer than the yellow-tip form.

Tip: Moderate light and gentle flow bring out the gold tips; keep flow indirect so the heavy fleshy heads can inflate fully.

Ultra Orange Octospawn

RareIntermediate

A heavily orange-to-orange-gold octospawn, often with a contrasting green mouth — a high-grade warm-color form well beyond the usual green.

Tip: Moderate light holds the orange pigment best; place mid-rock with gentle flow and avoid blasting light that can fade the warm tones.

Red Rum Octospawn

RareIntermediate

A deep pink-red octospawn with a translucent body and warm red tones — an unusual, distinctly named warm-color form well outside the usual green and gold range.

Tip: Place mid-rock under moderate light with gentle, indirect flow; the warm red/pink pigment holds best under moderate PAR rather than intense light.

Habitat & enclosure

Keep in an established marine reef aquarium (75+ L) with stable reef chemistry: 24-27 C (75-80 F), salinity 1.025-1.026 SG, alkalinity 7.5-9 dKH (Euphyllia-types prefer steady, slightly lower alkalinity), calcium 400-450 ppm, magnesium 1300-1400 ppm, pH 8.0-8.4. Moderate nutrients (nitrate 2-10 ppm, phosphate 0.03-0.1 ppm) help feed tissue. Place on the sandbed or low-to-mid rock with ample open space around it.

Substrate

Not substrate-dependent; the branching base is glued to live rock with reef gel glue and epoxy, or wedged securely so heads sway freely. A mature reef with live rock provides stability. Ensure flow keeps detritus off the heads without battering them.

Equipment & setup

Reef hardware: heater (24-27 C), moderate reef lighting (LED/T5, ~80-150 PAR, lower-moderate to keep polyps fully inflated and colorful), gentle-to-moderate, indirect, turbulent flow that makes the tentacles sway (strong direct flow keeps them retracted), protein skimmer, and stable dosing/water changes for alkalinity, calcium and magnesium. RO/DI water and a refractometer are essential.

Diet

Photosynthetic via zooxanthellae but a strong responsive feeder. Target-feed 1-2x weekly with mysis, brine, chopped seafood, or LPS pellets; the sticky, multi-tipped tentacles grab food readily. Feeding accelerates new-head growth. Avoid overfeeding large chunks that can cause it to expel food and stress.

Behavior & temperament

Sessile colonial coral. Like its Euphyllia kin it is aggressive: it extends long stinging sweeper tentacles, especially at night, that will sting and kill nearby corals, so give 10-15 cm clearance from non-Euphyllia/Fimbriaphyllia corals. It generally coexists with other Fimbriaphyllia/Euphyllia of the same type but can wage chemical/sting warfare with hammers/torches of different species; quarantine new Euphyllia for brown jelly. Not handleable; the sticky tentacles can adhere to and irritate skin.

Health

Susceptible to brown jelly disease (a rapid, contagious tissue-melting infection) and to Euphyllia 'STN/RTN'-style tissue loss when alkalinity is unstable or flow/light is wrong. Quarantine and dip new heads, and isolate any head showing brown gelatinous slime immediately. Steady alkalinity, moderate flow, and gentle light acclimation are the keys to long-term health.

Tips, DIY & hacks

Site it away from aggressive corals and from its own sweeper reach. Aim for gently swaying tentacles, modest light, and rock-steady alkalinity, which Euphyllia-types value above all. Feed after lights-out for fastest new-head growth. To frag, separate individual branched heads at the skeleton with bone cutters once a clear gap exists, dip, and glue; never tear a head off. If a head browns into jelly, remove it instantly to protect the colony.

Sources

  1. WoRMS - Fimbriaphyllia paradivisa (Veron, 1990) (database)
  2. Corals: A Quick Reference Guide (Julian Sprung) (reference)
  3. Reef2Reef - Euphyllia/Octospawn Care (care guide)